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3rd AC install

Ryanjb01
Explorer
Explorer
Hello,

I am looking to install a 3rd AC in my 40' 5th wheel. It is a bunkhouse and the bunkhouse is always warm. There is no electrical currently there at that location. I do not want to tie into the existing ductwork. Just straight dump into the bunk area. Nothing fancy, but look good.

Suggestions as to what others have done for electrical connections would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Ryan
2018 GMC 3500 Denali Crew Cab Dually Duramax/Allison 🙂
2015 Cedar Creek Silverback 35QB4
Ryan, Marsha, Alyssa and Emily

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work" ~ Thomas Edison
11 REPLIES 11

one_strange_tex
Explorer
Explorer
Ryanjb01 wrote:
Finally got it done. I ran an additional cord to the power pedestal, per the recommendations here. I ran power out to a 30A secondary receptacle to the exterior body of the trailer.

I now have 2 receptacles for power. My factory 50A, and a secondary 30A dedicated for the 3rd AC. If I am planning to use the 3rd AC, I simply run the secondary power cord.

Works like a charm, and looks factory.

Thanks for the advice here. I appreciate the guidance.

Ryan


We did a similar thing. We had a 3rd A/C installed to keep up with the hot summers down here in Texas. It is in the middle of the 5er where a MaxxFan was located. Apparently the openings for both the fans and Dometic A/C's are standard, 14-1/2" square, I believe. The installer was able to run the power and control wiring in the ceiling by using the MaxxFan's wire to pull it. He installed the thermostat for the new A/C in the wall with the MaxxFan's control alongside the thermostat for the existing 2 factory A/C's. We did not have it tied into the existing ductwork but set it to dump. It has its own 30 amp wiring that can be tied into the 30 amp supply at the power pole with a separate cord. We set the temperature a little above the existing A/C's and it kicks in when they cannot keep up. It has worked very well.
one_strange_texan
Currently between RV's
Former 5th wheel owner (Montana 3402RL)

greende
Explorer II
Explorer II
Good Job. The pedestals usually a have a 50 and 30 amp outlets.
2011 Chevy 3500 HD LTZ Duramax/Allison Crew Cab Long Box DRW
B&W Turnover Ball with Companion

2012 Keystone Cougar 293 SAB 5er

USAF 1968 - 1972 Viet Nam '71 - '72

Ryanjb01
Explorer
Explorer
Finally got it done. I ran an additional cord to the power pedestal, per the recommendations here. I ran power out to a 30A secondary receptacle to the exterior body of the trailer.

I now have 2 receptacles for power. My factory 50A, and a secondary 30A dedicated for the 3rd AC. If I am planning to use the 3rd AC, I simply run the secondary power cord.

Works like a charm, and looks factory.

Thanks for the advice here. I appreciate the guidance.

Ryan
2018 GMC 3500 Denali Crew Cab Dually Duramax/Allison 🙂
2015 Cedar Creek Silverback 35QB4
Ryan, Marsha, Alyssa and Emily

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work" ~ Thomas Edison

momentum_rv
Explorer
Explorer
If you are electrically handy just run a new circuit from the breaker box to the A/C. Ideally find a hidden route in a chase, ceiling, walls, belly or get a cable cover to cover any exposed areas. Romex routing may be a bit challenging but worth it in the end.
2015 Grand Design Momentum 385TH
2015 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 Lariat

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Dayle...I think most pedestals will have 20amp outlets, rather than 15. Still a good idea though.

Jerry

Dayle1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cummins12V98 wrote:
"Run an extra 15 amp power cord for the 3rd AC and plug it into the service pedestal"

Fine idea but the 15A cord will get hot, a 20A 12ga cord would be more appropriate IMHO.


Sure, a 20 amp cord would be better, but power will still be limited to 15 amps. The biggest source of heat is at the connections due to poor contact resistance, especially at the service pedestal 15 amp outlet. That issue will be the same regardless of wire gauge. Heavier gauge wire will dissipate the heat slightly better, but the best solution is to make sure all connections are clean and tight.
Larry Day
Texas Baptist Men-Retiree Builders since '01
'13 Silverado 3500HD LT 2wd CCSB SRW, custom RKI bed
'19 Starcraft Telluride 292RLS
Rig Photos

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
"Run an extra 15 amp power cord for the 3rd AC and plug it into the service pedestal"

Fine idea but the 15A cord will get hot, a 20A 12ga cord would be more appropriate IMHO.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Dayle1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Run an extra 15 amp power cord for the 3rd AC and plug it into the service pedestal. You can install a twist connector on the trailer exterior with a spring loaded or twist on lid. Then to route the power up to the AC, use a surface mount wire chase from LeGrande available at Lowes or HD. I used this to run 12 gauge romex from the AC in my toy hauler down to add an outlet to run an electric heater for cold weather. It was simple to cut a notch in the inside AC grill to run the romex and wire chase into the AC unit. Looks very clean.
Larry Day
Texas Baptist Men-Retiree Builders since '01
'13 Silverado 3500HD LT 2wd CCSB SRW, custom RKI bed
'19 Starcraft Telluride 292RLS
Rig Photos

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
X2
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
just run a separate 120 volt cord from post to rear area for the AC.
bumpy

kerrlakeRoo
Explorer
Explorer
If you have a means of venting it, you may want to look at a portable ac and power it with an extension cord directly from the 15 amp plug on the power pedestal. Look for one which vents outside, much more effective, but you will need a window or other opening for that purpose.
With most rv's running a third unit from the internal systems will be pushing them harder than you may want to.