50amp on RV, how to plug in at home?

[nole_trainer]

I have a 50amp Wildcat, just pulled into driveway for first time. Was going to sleep in tonight with boys, but the AC keeps breaking the house breaker. I have the 50amp plugged into 3 prong dog bone, do I need to step it down to a 30amp dog bone first, then plug the 30amp into the 3 prong house plug dog bone?

I realize I can only run one AC (have two), but just have some lights and tv on and the circuit pops?

I will not store at house, so this is just a every-know and then kind of thing. Not sure I can justify installing a 50amp service?

[Bumpyroad]

oilslick wrote:
While I've seen lots of 50 amp parks there is always a 30amp plug, if you plug something rated at 30amps into a circuit protected by a 50amp breaker it's like plugging a 15 amp hair dryer into a 30 amp protected circuit, all's well until you need the CB to trip.

at home I'm always plugging a 2-3-or 4 amp device into a 15-20 amp circuit.
bumpy

[oilslick]

While I've seen lots of 50 amp parks there is always a 30amp plug, if you plug something rated at 30amps into a circuit protected by a 50amp breaker it's like plugging a 15 amp hair dryer into a 30 amp protected circuit, all's well until you need the CB to trip.

[Bumpyroad]

oilslick wrote:
I wonder what the legal implications are of using a 30 amp rv plugged into a 50 amp circuit should the owner change RV's from a 50 to 30 amp..:S

as Lucy would say, "you got some splaining to do".
bumpy

[Cummins12V98]

oilslick wrote:
I wonder what the legal implications are of using a 30 amp rv plugged into a 50 amp circuit should the owner change RV's from a 50 to 30 amp..:S

I don't know, you tell me!

Lot's of parks only have 50A.

[oilslick]

I wonder what the legal implications are of using a 30 amp rv plugged into a 50 amp circuit should the owner change RV's from a 50 to 30 amp..:S

[keisling]

I have a similar Wildcat. Here is what I had to do to get the one air conditioner running on a 15 amp garage plug:
1) Turn off the trailer's water heater circuit breaker. The wildcat has a gas/electric WH and it will be running off electric unless that breaker is turned. There is also a tiny switch inside the WH that allows you to turn it off but it's hard to reach. The WH switch on the panel inside the trailer is just for running it on gas.
2) Turn off the wildcat's refrigerators. The outdoor fridge is not a typical RV low power DC/GAS fridge and is easily forgotten. It draws a lot of amps when it's compressor turns on and that was what finally stopped my garage circuit from popping.
I now have a 50 amp plug in the garage so I don't worry about it any more. Hopefully this works for you.

-Dave

[kaiserrw]

"It's really amazing how people will stop just short of having what they want/need! And it's usually mot much more$$$."

Amen! About a month ago, I took out the 30amp circuit I used for my old trailer and put in 50amp circuit because I want the ability to run A/C, water heater, refrig, etc. when it is here. The main expense was the 65-ft of 6/4 wire at $3.27/ft. A double throw 50amp breaker, one 50 amp RV Service box from Lowes (has the plug and is pre-wired), a 6-ft piece of PVC(elec), and a couple PVC fittings is all that was required. (Plus the know how) $320.xx and everything in the RV works.
Like someone else said, if you must hire an electrician; then acquire the materials, partially do the work and have the electrician make the final hookup. Don't forget to get your permits if that is required where you are.

[Cummins12V98]

smkettner wrote:
If spending money, put in a full 50 amp outlet for just a few $$ more.
Last thing I would want is to spend that money just to use an adapter.

It's really amazing how people will stop just short of having what they want/need! And it's usually mot much more$$$.

[time2roll]

If spending money, put in a full 50 amp outlet for just a few $$ more.
Last thing I would want is to spend that money just to use an adapter.

[TXiceman]

How much other load is on the 20 amp circuit...like a frig or a freezer? Also on the trailer, turn the frig to gas and the water heater to gas...if on electric they consume power.

Next, what is the voltage in the trailer when the A/C starts. You need a minimum of 108 volts with the A/C running.

Ken

[Cummins12V98]

ReneeG wrote:

laknox wrote:

nole_trainer wrote:
Thanks so much for the help! Will call today to get an estimate to see if it's worth it. Since we do not store at the house this would only be for when we load/unload and the occasional weekend.

In the long run, it's also a safety valve in case your home is unlivable for a time. AC/furnace goes out, remodel, major plumbing leak, roof blows off, whatever, you've got a place to stay. It's also nice to run the AC for a couple hours before loading up or while cleaning out, without worrying about the breakers. 🙂

Lyle

Best thing anyone said here as to why you should have the hookup at your house. We have it and it's nice on hot days, to run the AC while we're packing.

Yup, also resale value. Do it once do it right!

[ReneeG]

laknox wrote:

nole_trainer wrote:
Thanks so much for the help! Will call today to get an estimate to see if it's worth it. Since we do not store at the house this would only be for when we load/unload and the occasional weekend.

In the long run, it's also a safety valve in case your home is unlivable for a time. AC/furnace goes out, remodel, major plumbing leak, roof blows off, whatever, you've got a place to stay. It's also nice to run the AC for a couple hours before loading up or while cleaning out, without worrying about the breakers. 🙂

Lyle

Best thing anyone said here as to why you should have the hookup at your house. We have it and it's nice on hot days, to run the AC while we're packing.

[JamesBr]

Instead of a 50-15, I bought a 50-30 adaptor for RV parks that only have 30A hookup. I already had a 25' cord and that is enough in those cases. If I am at home, I just use an inexpensive 30-15 adaptor on the other cord. In the end same result, just a better bang for the buck in my opinion.

[laknox]

DutchmenSport wrote:
If you have the time, talent, and energy, you could go ahead and get the electric wire for an RV box yourself. You could even purchase the outside box, and even purchase a secondary sub panel and have it somewhat in place. In other words, run everything yourself, and then just have electrician do the actual hookup of the electricity.

I did this with my 30 amp I ran in my garage. I purchased everything myself, ran the wire (I had to remove wall panel) and ran the wire through a conduit so it matched everything else in the garage (not attached to the house). I then contacted an electrician who actually connected the wire to the fuse box and to the RV plug box. Cost was less than $100 for his service, and took him less than 10 minutes.

I could have hooked up the electricity myself, but for this one, I just wanted to make sure it was correct. He told me I did not need to run the wire through the conduit since it was already insulated. The reason for the conduit for the rest of the garage was because they ran single wires through the conduit (3 wires), not bundled in one. He asked me how I managed to shove that wire through all that conduit. I told him "with a LOT of patients and muscle ache! He was impressed!

So if you want to save some cost, purchase the wire, conduit, fuse panel, breakers, all yourself, install it, and have the electrician do the actual hook-up. Besides, if you do have to go through walls, or rip off dry wall or paneling, you can replace it right! And not have to pay extra either!

Since my panel's toward the front of my house, my electrician simply used a knock-out in the main panel, attached 2' of flex conduit to it and attached a standard plug box with 30a plus on it to the side of the house. Box also has a hinged cover. Nice clean setup. I also bought a 25' 30a extension cord from CW, so have 50' of full-on "RV cord". Have never had any issues with the cord getting hot.

Lyle

[laknox]

nole_trainer wrote:
Thanks so much for the help! Will call today to get an estimate to see if it's worth it. Since we do not store at the house this would only be for when we load/unload and the occasional weekend.

In the long run, it's also a safety valve in case your home is unlivable for a time. AC/furnace goes out, remodel, major plumbing leak, roof blows off, whatever, you've got a place to stay. It's also nice to run the AC for a couple hours before loading up or while cleaning out, without worrying about the breakers. 🙂

Lyle