Andersen Ultimate Hitch Rail Version

[zackyboy3rs]

Anyone give me the advantages/disadvantages of this hitch? I have rails in truck bed so would they work? I see them on Amazon for $399. Does that include everything I would need? Thanks.

[ralphnjoann]

"The turnoverball has separate attachment points specifically for safety chains. This is where chains should be connected and not to the Andersen itself. If using the rail version I'm not sure where one would attach."

These are what I use.

I attached the ends of the chains to these, and attach the ends with the hooks to the eyebolts on the Andersen coupler.

[N-Trouble]

rskeans wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:

Mountain Traveler wrote:


We have the safety chains and they just snap on to the hitch...easy!!!

Chains should attach directly to tow vehicle, not hitch. If hitch were to come loose safety chains become useless thus why they need to be connected to TV

I think it only a matter of terminology. The chains are secured to the B&W from under the truck. There are two attachment points that are a part of the B&W. The chains go from the B&W to the adaptor on the 5ver. So the hitch reference wasn't to the Andersen, but to the B&W.

Correct. The turnoverball has separate attachment points specifically for safety chains. This is where chains should be connected and not to the Andersen itself. If using the rail version I'm not sure where one would attach.

[Scott_85]

Ok, here is my piece. I started out with a B&W slider for my camper, I loved it, thing was built like a tank and would handle anything I could throw at it. Problem was it took up the whole bed and I don't have the storage or the means to get the thing out the bed. I looked at the Andersen and I am glad I did. I have the the gooseneck version. I got the safety chain kit just didn't want to take any chances if I get pulled over. As for people talking about raising up the 5er to hook up, you have to do that with any camper right? I've been to very few campground where the height to unhook is the right height to level the camper. I use a pvc pipe cut to the height the hitch needs to be at in order to hook up. Yes you need to back up right underneath the hitch in order for the ball to seat in the hitch, but once the ball is seated in the hitch it is not going to pull out, no need to worry if the jaws locked. You can also see the T handle while driving down the road depending on where you installed it. There is no need for padlocks or to check to see if someone unlocked your jaws. Since the ball fits into a greaseless socket there is no messy grease to mess with and there is no play so take offs and stops are smooth. My only regret is I didn't order the Andersen first. With everything there are pros and cons. I've owned both and the Andersen works best for me and will be the only hitch I will ever use.

[rskeans]

N-Trouble wrote:

Mountain Traveler wrote:


We have the safety chains and they just snap on to the hitch...easy!!!

Chains should attach directly to tow vehicle, not hitch. If hitch were to come loose safety chains become useless thus why they need to be connected to TV

I think it only a matter of terminology. The chains are secured to the B&W from under the truck. There are two attachment points that are a part of the B&W. The chains go from the B&W to the adaptor on the 5ver. So the hitch reference wasn't to the Andersen, but to the B&W.

[goducks10]

N-Trouble wrote:

Mountain Traveler wrote:


We have the safety chains and they just snap on to the hitch...easy!!!

Chains should attach directly to tow vehicle, not hitch. If hitch were to come loose safety chains become useless thus why they need to be connected to TV

My B&W is connected the same way an Andersen with rails is connected. I don't worry about my B&W not carrying the 5er so why should a guy with an Andersen worry about the hitch coming loose as well.

TT's are chained to the receiver not the truck. It's only the ball coupler connection that's the issue, not the rail connection. If the rail connection was an issue then all 5th hitches with rails would have to be chained to the truck.

[N-Trouble]

Mountain Traveler wrote:


We have the safety chains and they just snap on to the hitch...easy!!!

Chains should attach directly to tow vehicle, not hitch. If hitch were to come loose safety chains become useless thus why they need to be connected to TV

[Mountain_Travel]

We have the Anderson hitch on the rails system. It works great and you don't get the buck from the 5th wheel when you hit a bump or say a bridge abuckment. My husband is disabled and no way can I lift a reese hitch in and out and get it pinned in. The Anderson hitch that is for rails is maybe 40 pounds and goes in and out easy. I love how easy it is to hook up, just turn and lock....don't have to beat on it and beat on it to get it to hook up. Also don't have to worry about getting out and unhooking something on a slider hitch. Plenty of room to turn anywhere with our short bed dodge.

We have the safety chains and they just snap on to the hitch...easy!!!

LOVE LOVE LOVE it!

[sayoung]

goducks10 wrote:

hbillsmith wrote:
I have the non-rail version. Light weight means I get to enjoy about 150# more payload than a slider. Lower mfg cost translates to about $1000 in savings vs. a slider. Easy to install and remove to clear the bed. Chucking and bucking almost none and easily comparable to an air ride ride. Little over 10000 miles towed so far. Canyons, mountains and the Interstates, no complaints from me. Fan boy? No way? I spent many months researching and comparing specs and reviews before I chose the Andersen Ultimate Aluminum. It does everything I expected and I would gladly buy it again.

Just wondering if you had chucking with a different hitch prior to getting the Andersen pulling the same trailer? I don't see how the Andersen would eliminate chucking.

My Reese banged and clanged.
Did a lot of looking and checking before I switched.Towing is smooth & quiet.

[rskeans]

goducks10 wrote:

rskeans wrote:

goducks10 wrote:

hbillsmith wrote:
I have the non-rail version. Light weight means I get to enjoy about 150# more payload than a slider. Lower mfg cost translates to about $1000 in savings vs. a slider. Easy to install and remove to clear the bed. Chucking and bucking almost none and easily comparable to an air ride ride. Little over 10000 miles towed so far. Canyons, mountains and the Interstates, no complaints from me. Fan boy? No way? I spent many months researching and comparing specs and reviews before I chose the Andersen Ultimate Aluminum. It does everything I expected and I would gladly buy it again.

I don't see how the Andersen would eliminate chucking.

Probably because of minimizing accumulated tolerances. In the standard hitch you've got the tolerances with the King Pin on the jaws on the plate, plus the tolerance of the plate to the base. There might also be some tolerances between the base to the bed rails. The Anderson only has one tolerance. That is the Ball to the King Pin Coupler.

Makes sense. I think you'd have two tolerances though. Wouldn't that be pin/coupler to ball and if using rails then rails to Andersen base.

Could be. I use the B&W truck ball and don't know how the Andersen base secures to the rails.

[goducks10]

rskeans wrote:

goducks10 wrote:

hbillsmith wrote:
I have the non-rail version. Light weight means I get to enjoy about 150# more payload than a slider. Lower mfg cost translates to about $1000 in savings vs. a slider. Easy to install and remove to clear the bed. Chucking and bucking almost none and easily comparable to an air ride ride. Little over 10000 miles towed so far. Canyons, mountains and the Interstates, no complaints from me. Fan boy? No way? I spent many months researching and comparing specs and reviews before I chose the Andersen Ultimate Aluminum. It does everything I expected and I would gladly buy it again.

I don't see how the Andersen would eliminate chucking.

Probably because of minimizing accumulated tolerances. In the standard hitch you've got the tolerances with the King Pin on the jaws on the plate, plus the tolerance of the plate to the base. There might also be some tolerances between the base to the bed rails. The Anderson only has one tolerance. That is the Ball to the King Pin Coupler.

Makes sense. I think you'd have two tolerances though. Wouldn't that be pin/coupler to ball and if using rails then rails to Andersen base.

[Garyl53]

Does tolerance (movement, slop, etc.) in the hitch assembly components contribute significantly to chucking? For instance if these tolerances are reduced via tightening and shims could it reduce chucking?
Thx

[gkainz]

fanbois and nay-sayers on both sides ... which I don't get ... if you like the hitch you have, you can keep the hitch you have! Doesn't make one any better by knocking the other.

So, that being said, I had a Valley 16k hitch in my old truck. When I upgraded trucks, the new one had a gooseneck ball in it already. Since I want a clean bed when I'm not towing, I went with the Andersen Ultimate (Aluminum) and love it.

Pros:
significantly lighter weight
easy in and out
flat bed (when on a turnover ball)
no additional torque or flex on pinbox like a gooseneck adapter
impossible to high-hitch

Cons:
slightly more complex to hitch/unhitch
safety chains (some states)

[rskeans]

goducks10 wrote:

hbillsmith wrote:
I have the non-rail version. Light weight means I get to enjoy about 150# more payload than a slider. Lower mfg cost translates to about $1000 in savings vs. a slider. Easy to install and remove to clear the bed. Chucking and bucking almost none and easily comparable to an air ride ride. Little over 10000 miles towed so far. Canyons, mountains and the Interstates, no complaints from me. Fan boy? No way? I spent many months researching and comparing specs and reviews before I chose the Andersen Ultimate Aluminum. It does everything I expected and I would gladly buy it again.

I don't see how the Andersen would eliminate chucking.

Probably because of minimizing accumulated tolerances. In the standard hitch you've got the tolerances with the King Pin on the jaws on the plate, plus the tolerance of the plate to the base. There might also be some tolerances between the base to the bed rails. The Anderson only has one tolerance. That is the Ball to the King Pin Coupler.

[hbillsmith]

I said almost none. My comments are based on my experiences plus conversations with other owners who have similar and in some cases identical setups. A couple of them did move off traditional collars to the Andersen. In one case, the owner is using the Andersen with a TrailAir king pin box, of course he believes that made the ride even better. I chose not to change pinboxes because of the extra height and unlevelness that would introduce. Should I decide to do a carriage lift,I might reconsider. For now, I am good.