Best Hitch

[ESDA]

So I am looking at getting into a fifth wheel coming from a tow behind. On my trailer I have a Hensley and love it. I see that the also have the Trailersaver. Trying to find a good hitch that is easy to use and safe. Anyone use these? Any thoughts? Also looking it seems that a lot of people like the B&W 20K Companion. Any responses would be appreciated.

[Cummins12V98]

Cptnvideo wrote:
We're not new to RVs but fairly new to 5th wheel RVs. A forum member recommended the Hensley BD-5 hitch to us and after doing some research, we bought one. And we are very happy with it. Very comfortable ride.
I guess I don't understand what all the fuss is about "pull tests". But it might be because I only know about the above mentioned hitch.
When hitching up, we visually look to see if the jaws are closed on the king pin and check to see if we can see that the bottom flange of the king pin is below the jaws. We then check to see if the locking arm is in the 8 o'clock position (which locks the jaws around the kng pin). If all that is correct, I simply don't see a reason for the pull test. Am I missing something?

Sir, you are missing NOTHING!!! B&W and Hensley simply do not need a pull test if you do a VISUAL conformation and everything is connected correctly.

For the "Sky is falling" crowd carry on with your pull tests.

[Cptnvideo]

We're not new to RVs but fairly new to 5th wheel RVs. A forum member recommended the Hensley BD-5 hitch to us and after doing some research, we bought one. And we are very happy with it. Very comfortable ride.
I guess I don't understand what all the fuss is about "pull tests". But it might be because I only know about the above mentioned hitch.
When hitching up, we visually look to see if the jaws are closed on the king pin and check to see if we can see that the bottom flange of the king pin is below the jaws. We then check to see if the locking arm is in the 8 o'clock position (which locks the jaws around the kng pin). If all that is correct, I simply don't see a reason for the pull test. Am I missing something?

[Cummins12V98]

JIMNLIN I think we are on the same page.

[valhalla360]

Painted the jaws white. If you can't see white around the pin, it's not locked in.

[JIMNLIN]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
JIMNLIN 100% disagree! It is MUCH easier to identify a "high hitch" with 1" thick jaws than say CURT with thin 1/2" jaws. Set the kingpin on top of the B&W closed jaws and the apace between plates will be 1/2" larger than the CURT making it MUCH easier to identify as high hitched.

Maybe I misunderstood what you said???

You did or I didn't make it plain.
The top of a 1/2" or 3/4" or 1" or 1.25" thick jaw is just below the pins top shoulder.
Look at a picture of a 2" size 5th wheel pin and we can see what I'm saying.
All 2" 5th wheel pins use the same dimensions for the top shoulder

If you have ever seen a high hitch you would know the gap isn't constant all around. Usually all the gap if any is in the rear and not easily seen from the drivers seat.
Just one reason professional big rig drivers do a tug test...then get out of their rig and do a visual looking to see the jaws are around the 2" dia part of the pin and closed.

[Cummins12V98]

JIMNLIN 100% disagree! It is MUCH easier to identify a "high hitch" with 1" thick jaws than say CURT with thin 1/2" jaws. Set the kingpin on top of the B&W closed jaws and the apace between plates will be 1/2" larger than the CURT making it MUCH easier to identify as high hitched.

Maybe I misunderstood what you said???

[valhalla360]

Any 5th wheel hitch of appropriate rating used per the directions is going to be fine. (gooseneck variations are a different animal).

Do a visual and pull test and there is effectively no chance of it coming undone.

If you roll the rig all bets are off regardless of hitch.

The selection of specialty hitches would be to address an issue. They are very expensive, so silly to buy one if you haven't experienced an issue.

[JIMNLIN]

hondapro wrote:
With mw B&W I never do a tug test. With the B&W you can clearly see if the jaws are around the pin. As thick as the jaws are if you are high hitched it would be easy to tell.

Its easy to "see" if the jaws are around the pin with any hitch brand.

Jaw thickness has zero to do with high hitching issues with a SAF Holland hitch or a Fontaine OTR hitch or any rv brand 5th wheel hitch.

The pin has a upper flange (or shoulder). The top shoulder/flange on 5th wheel pins are the same thickness
The jaws close just below the pins upper flange/shoulder so the distance from the top plate to the top of the hitch jaws can be the same regardless of jaw thickness.

A weak pull test may not pull the pin off the top of the jaws for several turns around a corner....but a visual from behind the hitch will tell the operator if the jaws are around the pin and closed.

[Cummins12V98]

hondapro wrote:
With mw B&W I never do a tug test. With the B&W you can clearly see if the jaws are around the pin. As thick as the jaws are if you are high hitched it would be easy to tell.

Nice you payed attention at the "B&W HeavyWeight" seminar.

Full disclaimer, with a B&W "DO A PULL TEST IF YOU HAVE NO CONFIDENCE IN YOUR EYES".

[hondapro]

With mw B&W I never do a tug test. With the B&W you can clearly see if the jaws are around the pin. As thick as the jaws are if you are high hitched it would be easy to tell.

[ReneeG]

Durb wrote:

Learjet wrote:

Durb wrote:
It appears the award for "Best Hitch" has been given to the B&W Companion. I'm late to this thread (been camping), but I would like to nominate the Trailer Saver TS3 which I own.

- The Companion is made in USA, so is the Trailer Saver.
- The Companion uses heavy gauge steel, the TS3 is heavier, 1/4" plate with 3/4" solid steel risers.
- The Companion has thick jaws, those on the TS3 are thicker.
- The TS3 dissipates bouncing forces, the Companion doesn't.
- Due to the high hinge design, the TS3 dissipates chucking forces, the Companion doesn't.
- During panic braking, the TS3 causes the front of the trailer to push down loading the rear truck tires, a safety feature.
- The comfortable tow of the TS3 reduces driver fatigue, a safety feature.
- Shock mitigation of the TS3 protects the trailer's frame and the truck's electronics. The Companion doesn't do this.

The Companion is a good hitch, the TS3 just does so much more. In a "Best Hitch" competition, B&W would rank below Trailer Saver, Road master Comfort Ride, and Air Safe hitches. Due to the high prices, we just don't have as many fanboys.

What kind of maintenance does the TS3 need? What are the failure points...airbags? Which one is easier to remove? Which one cost less? Which one has better customer support?

Maintenance - Zerk fittings for the pivot rod similar to the need to grease the rubber donuts on the Companion. Same for the Hensley TrailerSaver BD3

Failure points - Don't know, never had a failure in six years. Same here, but have not had a failure since installing it in 2010.

Easier to remove - Based on this Criterium, the lightest hitch would then be the best hitch. "Best Hitch" was the question. TrailerSaver BD3 is heavy duty, but comes apart for easy removal.

Cost - You get what you pay for. Pay less - get less.

Customer support - Don't know, never needed to call customer support. My guess is if you are calling customer support, you have problems. Fantastic and prompt customer support from Hensley!

[Cummins12V98]

cummins2014 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Look at the B&W it simply can't drop the 5er if the pin box and hitch are touching each other and the jaws are closed and the handle is locked. With the thick jaws it makes it easy to see of you are high hitched unlike others with thin jaws.

No need for a pull test as if you do what I just mentioned that is a visual test and good enough IMHO.

Sorry ,misquoted you .No need for a pull test , instead of not necessary to do a pull test.

Zactly, IMHO as I mentioned no need.

[Cummins12V98]

If I wanted an air ride hitch the Trailer Saver would at the top of the list. The others mentioned not so much. I don't need an air ride hitch as my truck has factory rear air and an air bag pin box. Rides GREAT!!!

[Cummins12V98]

RCMAN46 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Of course they ALL recommend a pull test. A pull test is no divergent than a visual test, it's a test!

My wife double checks me every time as she fully understands how the hitch works. Kinda like "did you put the butt plug in the boat" as she asks me every time before a launch.

I really don't care if people do a pull test or not. I think people should do what they feel comfortable with. Lot's of damage can be done not doing a pull test correctly.

Expand on the damage that can be done if a pull test is not done correctly.

My fault if "I" don't do a visual test as I laid out earlier.

[cummins2014]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Look at the B&W it simply can't drop the 5er if the pin box and hitch are touching each other and the jaws are closed and the handle is locked. With the thick jaws it makes it easy to see of you are high hitched unlike others with thin jaws.

No need for a pull test as if you do what I just mentioned that is a visual test and good enough IMHO.

Sorry ,misquoted you .No need for a pull test , instead of not necessary to do a pull test.