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Best Hitch

ESDA
Explorer
Explorer
So I am looking at getting into a fifth wheel coming from a tow behind. On my trailer I have a Hensley and love it. I see that the also have the Trailersaver. Trying to find a good hitch that is easy to use and safe. Anyone use these? Any thoughts? Also looking it seems that a lot of people like the B&W 20K Companion. Any responses would be appreciated.
93 REPLIES 93

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Cptnvideo wrote:
Do you mean chocked?
I don't think a piece of chalk would help. 😄


Maybe a BIG pc like these BIG rolls of TP.

2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

TXiceman
Explorer II
Explorer II
PButler96 wrote:
Now that that's settled. Could someone please tell me if I can tow a 36'Keystone TT with a 1929 Duesenberg?


Afraid not on the 1929 model Duesenberg, unless it is a late model manufacturer date. It will need the dual spare option as well.

Ken
Amateur Radio Operator.
2023 Cougar 22MLS, toted with a 2022, F150, 3.5L EcoBoost, Crewcab, Max Tow, FORMER Full Time RVer. Travel with a standard schnauzer and a Timneh African Gray parrot

Cptnvideo
Nomad
Nomad
Do you mean chocked?
I don't think a piece of chalk would help. 😄
Bill & Linda, 2019 Ram Laramie 3500 dually 4x4 diesel, Hensley BD5 hitch, 2022 Grand Design Solitude 378MBS, 1600 watts solar, Victron 150/100 MPPT controller, GoPower 3kw inverter/charger, 5 SOK 206AH LFP batteries for 1030 ah

RCMAN46
Explorer
Explorer
Cptnvideo wrote:
Yes, we do a trailer brake test. Our leveling system doesn't provide for a means to have the landing gear jacks a couple inches off the ground so a pull test would have to either be done with one jack grounded or one jack a couple inches above ground or both jacks stowed. I guess I could drag the landing gear jacks with a pull test. But I would rather not since the visual check is such a good indication.


If you have your trailer properly chalked you will not drag the landing gear jacks with a pull test.

PButler96
Explorer
Explorer
Now that that's settled. Could someone please tell me if I can tow a 36'Keystone TT with a 1929 Duesenberg?
I have a burn barrel in my yard.

Cptnvideo
Nomad
Nomad
Yes, we do a trailer brake test. Our leveling system doesn't provide for a means to have the landing gear jacks a couple inches off the ground so a pull test would have to either be done with one jack grounded or one jack a couple inches above ground or both jacks stowed. I guess I could drag the landing gear jacks with a pull test. But I would rather not since the visual check is such a good indication.
Bill & Linda, 2019 Ram Laramie 3500 dually 4x4 diesel, Hensley BD5 hitch, 2022 Grand Design Solitude 378MBS, 1600 watts solar, Victron 150/100 MPPT controller, GoPower 3kw inverter/charger, 5 SOK 206AH LFP batteries for 1030 ah

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
Cptnvideo wrote:
We're not new to RVs but fairly new to 5th wheel RVs. A forum member recommended the Hensley BD-5 hitch to us and after doing some research, we bought one. And we are very happy with it. Very comfortable ride.
I guess I don't understand what all the fuss is about "pull tests". But it might be because I only know about the above mentioned hitch.
When hitching up, we visually look to see if the jaws are closed on the king pin and check to see if we can see that the bottom flange of the king pin is below the jaws. We then check to see if the locking arm is in the 8 o'clock position (which locks the jaws around the kng pin). If all that is correct, I simply don't see a reason for the pull test. Am I missing something?


Belt & suspenders approach. In theory either will work but if you do both, the rare failure modes for either tend to be canceled out. Just takes a minute to do.

Also, do you do a brake test when pulling out of a site? I know it's not quite the same as chocking the wheels but confirms that the trailer brakes are functioning. Even with a bumper pull, I always hit the manual switch for the trailer brakes when pulling out of a site to makes sure it brings me to a quick stop.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
MFL wrote:
cummins2014 said: "Jerry ,not sure I want to answer that"

Thanks for the honest reply, and a good description of how you hookup! I have seen the Andersens already hooked/unhooked, but never watched the actual process. I can understand now, how a newer Andersen owner could drop on his bed, but a get out and look should solve that.

I know you know, that I was not baiting a trap, to cause any retaliation. We are mostly all friends, so all is good! 🙂

Jerry


No worries . I gave you a scenario how an Andersen owner COULD sit his fifth wheel on the bedrails of his truck, but I can't imagine someone going that far ,at some point standing right there lowering the fifth wheel you are watching as the adapter ,and ball come together same as a bumper pull. IMO there is no way you could drop one on the bed . The whole thing with the Andersen is you have to be lined up with the ball ,and adapter. Big reason Andersen came out later on with that line up cone that attaches to the adapter . When I hook up if I am off more than an inch or so it won't go down on the ball, if I had that cone its a bit more forgiving . Like backing into a conventional hitch you have the V shaped opening , so within reason you can be of a bit side to side .

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Cptnvideo wrote:
It is my understanding that it is NOT needed IF you have certain hitches AND if a visual check is done.


It is the decision of the hitch owner to decide to use his God given mind to decide for him self if they should or should not do a pull test.

That my friends is my stance on doing a pull test!!!



I think that is a whole lot better than coming out with its not needed . IMO that's any hitch.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
MFL wrote:
cummins2014 said: "Jerry ,not sure I want to answer that"

Thanks for the honest reply, and a good description of how you hookup! I have seen the Andersens already hooked/unhooked, but never watched the actual process. I can understand now, how a newer Andersen owner could drop on his bed, but a get out and look should solve that.

I know you know, that I was not baiting a trap, to cause any retaliation. We are mostly all friends, so all is good! 🙂

Jerry


MOSTLY.....
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
RCMAN46 wrote:
Cptnvideo wrote:
It is my understanding that it is NOT needed IF you have certain hitches AND if a visual check is done.




Here is a certain hitch had the owner done a proper pull test there may have been no or very little damage.


More details would be nice. I have to say EVERY truck I have seen with bed damage has these type of hitches with the slide handle.

Truth, I did see a guy drop his new trucks new B&W only because he did not take the time to read the directions. Can't remember the details but no damage fortunately.


2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
cummins2014 wrote:
MFL wrote:
Cptnvideo wrote:
It is my understanding that it is NOT needed IF you have certain hitches AND if a visual check is done.


When you say certain hitches, yes, some are safer than others. The operator's understanding of their hitch, and ability to operate it correctly is still a factor. It appears you have a quality hitch, but I've never used your model.

I've a serious question for cummins2014, a forum friend, that I know uses an Andersen hitch. Do you need to do a pull test, with this ball type hitch, and different style coupler attached to king pin?

Jerry


Jerry ,not sure I want to answer that , I may have 12V come after me on that . :B But no there is no pull test on the Andersen ,nor has there ever been a discussion regarding the Andersen ,and a pull test that I know of . Although there has been plenty of other discussions regarding the Andersen . The one big thing is locking the adapter to the ball. I would not like find out if it could bounce off the ball. I have read where its been discovered being unlocked after travel, without issue.

I kinda get a feeling where this is leading , but its entirely different process hitching up an Andersen . Yes , it's all visual . It's lined up , and lowered on the ball, until the landing gear is raised off the ground . In my case with the six point leveling system they are raised all the way up . Then the handle is pushed in ,and locked . At that point it's hitched .

Let me point out ,because I have the feeling when you asked about a pull test ,and the possibly I am assuming you are thinking missing the ball entirely . Yes you could very well miss the ball, it would be tough on the newer Andersen's that have that red alignment cone. mine does not . In either case if you missed the ball ,you would be setting your fifth wheel on the bed rails of your truck, not a lot to stop it at that point . At some point in that process you would certainly know you are not on the ball. 🙂


Visual test HUH? 😉
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Cptnvideo wrote:
It is my understanding that it is NOT needed IF you have certain hitches AND if a visual check is done.


It is the decision of the hitch owner to decide to use his God given mind to decide for him self if they should or should not do a pull test.

That my friends is my stance on doing a pull test!!!
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
"I would not do a pull test and no visual, but doing a visual without pull. Works for ME."

Jerry you just gained "ford truck guys" pegs. :B

Hey Jerry my Dad and I both had that same RBW hitch, thought it was the best thing ever!!! My Dad's slide bar actually developed a break in the slide bar. Guess what he discovered it doing a "VISUAL TEST".

I thank my friend I bought my 98 12V from when using my B&W's because he convinced me to change from the noisy RBW to a B&W gooseneck hitch and the 20k B&W. Never looked back, thanks Rick!!!
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD