Electrical connection between TV and 5th wheel

[CampbellDaycrui]

Our TV is a 2000 f-250 SRW diesel that we bought back in 2008 as a theft recovery on eBay. It was setup for a gooseneck trailer and there was a wiring bundle in the bed that was cutoff previously, also in the cab is a simple electric brake controller which we have never used.

Since we bought it we have put over 10k miles with no problem often towing the boat in my handle with a bumper hitch where both the round and flat electrical connectors work just fine. Now we are looking to buy a 5er and I have to deal with the cut off wires in the bed. What different loads and grounds are needed to connect to a typical 5th wheel and would I be better starting over or should I have the cut bundle repaired? We will be replacing the old brake controller with a new model at the same time. Finally, is this the sort of thing an RV shop should do, or perhaps an auto electrician, or even a dealer (if the bundle was OEM)?

BTW we are looking at used Arctic Fox and Nash 5ers in the under 27' and 10k #s range......

[CampbellDaycrui]

It looks like the path of least resistance is to drop a B&W companion slider hitch into my turnoverball socket and call it done! I guess we will just have to tempt fate as far moving the slider when maneuvering. Now I have figure out how to convert the pin box back from the Superglide plate.

[CampbellDaycrui]

I know, but as a newbie who is wanting SWMBO to also drive once in a while, I think an automatic slider would be the safest choice. Do B&W offer one? I am certain that the only time we would forget to unlock the slider would be the only time we would need it!

Also the unit we looked at today is already setup for a Superglide at the kingpin.....

[laknox]

CampbellDaycruiser wrote:
Thanks for the help, I looked a bit closer in my bed and found a Pollak 12-700 7 pin receptacle up under the rail so it looks like it did not get cut off after all. I also discovered that I have a b&w square gooseneck receptical so all I need is an adaptor to mount a used standard slider hitch.

B&W also makes a slider. Just sayin'... 🙂

Lyle

[Old-Biscuit]

Sounds like you are good to go......after you get a new brake controller

Tekonsha Prodigy P3

[CampbellDaycrui]

Thanks for the help, I looked a bit closer in my bed and found a Pollak 12-700 7 pin receptacle up under the rail so it looks like it did not get cut off after all. I also discovered that I have a b&w square gooseneck receptical so all I need is an adaptor to mount a used standard slider hitch.

[RustyJC]

I used to be able to post pictures in this forum, but since that's no longer possible, just Google "Pollak 7 pin flat wiring diagram".

Rusty

[CampbellDaycrui]

Oops! I forgot to amend my signature: we are no longer keeping a home in Tucson and currently are in the Los Angeles area, SFV specifically.....

How is the brake signal transmitted from the controller to the RV? Through the flat connector or the round one? And if it needs another connector, is there an industry standard that has everything in one plug?

[laknox]

CampbellDaycruiser wrote:
Our TV is a 2000 f-250 SRW diesel that we bought back in 2008 as a theft recovery on eBay. It was setup for a gooseneck trailer and there was a wiring bundle in the bed that was cutoff previously, also in the cab is a simple electric brake controller which we have never used.

Since we bought it we have put over 10k miles with no problem often towing the boat in my handle with a bumper hitch where both the round and flat electrical connectors work just fine. Now we are looking to buy a 5er and I have to deal with the cut off wires in the bed. What different loads and grounds are needed to connect to a typical 5th wheel and would I be better starting over or should I have the cut bundle repaired? We will be replacing the old brake controller with a new model at the same time. Finally, is this the sort of thing an RV shop should do, or perhaps an auto electrician, or even a dealer (if the bundle was OEM)?

BTW we are looking at used Arctic Fox and Nash 5ers in the under 27' and 10k #s range......

If you guys were here in Chandler, I'd tell you to take it to Lewis Hitches. Great guys and excellent prices. FWIW, you do =not= have to use the in-bed connector, but they sure are nice! I don't know why I waited so long to do my truck. At the same time, I upgraded to a P2 controller and love it, too.

Lyle

[BB_TX]

Trace the cut wire bundle and see where it goes under the bed. Likely it is as stew47 noted above. If so, just unplug the old one and plug in a new one. Or you can just eliminate it altogether and use the bumper 7 pin connector.

My old truck only had a bumper connector and it worked fine for my 5er. New truck has both bumper and in bed connectors. And I have used both at one time or the other, again either works fine.

[Old-Biscuit]

Take your truck HERE

They WILL know what you need based on what you have



Forget RV Dealers etc.

[stew47]

This is the cable you will need in your bed. It's a plug and play device. As far as your brake controller it should plug into port under your dash. You can have checked out at rv dealer if it doesn't work.

https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Ford/F-250+and+F-350+Super+Duty/2000/HM40157.html?vehicleid=20001229750

[K_Charles]

It should be wired just like the one on the bumper.