Hose Length for my 5er

[mykahts]

Hello... My 5er is soon to arrive and I'll be working on ensuring the spot for it is all set for delivery. The private lot where I will park it has hookups. How close does the connection need to be to hook it up to for the black water/waste? How long does the hose need to be? The sewer hookup to connect it to is about 15 inches above ground. Suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

[mykahts]

RCMAN46 wrote:
If you plan to stay at the same lot for more than one season consider using rain gutters to support the sewer hose. That allows an even slope from the trailer to the sewer.

In Yuma I have seen a 5 inch PVC fence posts used. That provides the even slope, protection from the sun and critters such as birds poking holes in your sewer hose.

As a private lot owner I agree I would not allow you to make any changes to the sewer.

There is most likely a valid reason it is 15 inches off the ground.

I think out of respect for the owner and her property, I'll find ways to work around what's there. Thanks for your reply. 🙂

[mykahts]

rockhillmanor wrote:
I stay at a CG that has the sewer pipe WAY above the ground also.

The CG owner got tired of RV's driving over the sewer hookups and smashing them so now all the pipes are about 12 to 15 inches aboce ground.

I also highly doubt the CG owner will let you just wack off the sewer pipe! :B

The sewer hose that came with your RV will never be long enough for any CG. I found that out the first CG I pulled into with my new RV!

Do your self a BIG favor and go buy the Rhino Sewer hose kit and the side winder. With these two you will be able to hook up and have it drain properly. If you need more lift at your site pick up a couple of 1.00 flat patio blocks from walmart and put it under the side winder.





You can find both of these at most super Walmarts.

If you are new to RV'ing please note that you should NOT leave your black or gray tank valves open when parked. Let the both tanks fill 3/4 and then dump. Otherwise you will have mountains of poop hardening inside your tanks setting yourself up for just more problems.

Thanks for the pix and the tip on not leaving valves open when parked. Good to know. 🙂

[wandering1]

Measure and see, no one can give you an accurate guess on the forum.:S

[mykahts]

laknox wrote:


Drain the black tank first, use your tank flush (factory-installed or clear elbow) to rinse the tank, drain again, =then= drain the grey tank. You should virtually never have leftovers in your hose by doing this. Also, as someone else said, wait until your black tank is at least 1/2 full, or fill it with clear water to that level, before dumping, and never leave it dry. Always put about 5 gallons back in the tank to keep it moist.

I agree with cutting the sewer inlet to about 1" above ground level. Get yourself an elbow rather than trying to bend the hose to fit into the dump. A Slunky is also real handy for supporting the hose from the trailer to the sewer inlet. If you don't know what that is, just Google it.

Lyle

Great advice! Noted everything. Thanks!

[RCMAN46]

If you plan to stay at the same lot for more than one season consider using rain gutters to support the sewer hose. That allows an even slope from the trailer to the sewer.

In Yuma I have seen a 5 inch PVC fence posts used. That provides the even slope, protection from the sun and critters such as birds poking holes in your sewer hose.

As a private lot owner I agree I would not allow you to make any changes to the sewer.

There is most likely a valid reason it is 15 inches off the ground.

[mykahts]

DutchmenSport wrote:
If your campsite is a seasonal site and the pipe is 15 nches above grade and PVC its possible you may be able to install a PVC more permant pipe than a hose. When you check out the site take a good look at the other campers and see what they are using and how they raised the hose or pipe. 15 inches.

I'll be on a private lot which already has hookups but only for one RV. This is my first time to all of this experience even rigs and hookups but I'm spear excited to learn and live the lifestyle full time.

[mykahts]

Golden_HVAC wrote:
Hi,

I am guessing that you have not been camping often with a RV? All campground sewer connections are at ground level, or within 1" above ground level.

My suggestion is bring a shovel, some ABS glue and a female 4" fitting with a 4" plug that screws inside. You should have a hacksaw or sawsall to cut the pipe at close to ground level, and dry fit the new end fitting before gluing it. It actually needs to be at ground level or 1" below ground level to work properly when finished, so you might need to cut the pipe 2" below ground level so after the fitting is on, it will end up around 1/2" to 1" below ground level. If way below ground level, it might take in rain water, and that is really bad for the sewer system.

Speaking of black water tanks, you MUST allow the black tank to fill to about 1/2 full before draining it, and also must keep some water in the tank at all times (well except for when winterized and then drain it or any water left inside can crack the fittings). A dry bottom of the tank can allow any remaining solids to dry into a large cracker like substance and that is bad.

For reference, if you had a drain hose go from the trailer to the ground (with water weight inside, it will fall to the ground) then the water must also climb to the 15" height before going into the sewer, and can slip out due to the 10 pounds or so of weight in the pipe, splatter all over, and other yuckyness.

If you have a 30 amp hookup, keep an eye on the voltage when running the A/C unit, and if below 105 volts, shut it off. 50 amp services with #6 wire to them do not have this problem.

You can find a Kill-A-Watt on E-bay for about $20. It can stay plugged in all the time, and warn you of low voltage if you look at it once in a while.

Fred.

Thanks for the tips. Good to know. I visited couple campgrounds just to check them out but I haven't stayed in any of them yet.

[mykahts]

jaycocamprs wrote:

Yea, but the hose they give you is cheap and wont last. So plan on replacing it soon. When you do spend the extra $$$ for a good thick hose, they last a lot longer.

Oh ok.... I'm taking notes. Thank you. 🙂

[ford_truck_guy]

mykahts wrote:

ford truck guy wrote:
I carry 3 sections of 10' sewer hose.... That gives me the flexibility of anything from a few inches to 30' away..

Thanks. Great idea. :). Any issue as far as waste being left in the sewer hose?

It all depends on the FLOW... You what they say___ POOP floes downhill.. That statement is true on so many levels , including draining your tanks...

If the waste drain is in fact 18" above the ground , you will have a hard time getting a good flow , then it's time for either a macerator , or to cut down the tube to almost ground level...

Joe

[rockhillmanor]

I stay at a CG that has the sewer pipe WAY above the ground also.

The CG owner got tired of RV's driving over the sewer hookups and smashing them so now all the pipes are about 12 to 15 inches aboce ground.

I also highly doubt the CG owner will let you just wack off the sewer pipe! :B

The sewer hose that came with your RV will never be long enough for any CG. I found that out the first CG I pulled into with my new RV!

Do your self a BIG favor and go buy the Rhino Sewer hose kit and the side winder. With these two you will be able to hook up and have it drain properly. If you need more lift at your site pick up a couple of 1.00 flat patio blocks from walmart and put it under the side winder.





You can find both of these at most super Walmarts.

If you are new to RV'ing please note that you should NOT leave your black or gray tank valves open when parked. Let the both tanks fill 3/4 and then dump. Otherwise you will have mountains of poop hardening inside your tanks setting yourself up for just more problems.

[DutchmenSport]

If your campsite is a seasonal site and the pipe is 15 nches above grade and PVC its possible you may be able to install a PVC more permant pipe than a hose. When you check out the site take a good look at the other campers and see what they are using and how they raised the hose or pipe. 15 inches.

[laknox]

mykahts wrote:

ford truck guy wrote:
I carry 3 sections of 10' sewer hose.... That gives me the flexibility of anything from a few inches to 30' away..

Thanks. Great idea. :). Any issue as far as waste being left in the sewer hose?

Drain the black tank first, use your tank flush (factory-installed or clear elbow) to rinse the tank, drain again, =then= drain the grey tank. You should virtually never have leftovers in your hose by doing this. Also, as someone else said, wait until your black tank is at least 1/2 full, or fill it with clear water to that level, before dumping, and never leave it dry. Always put about 5 gallons back in the tank to keep it moist.

I agree with cutting the sewer inlet to about 1" above ground level. Get yourself an elbow rather than trying to bend the hose to fit into the dump. A Slunky is also real handy for supporting the hose from the trailer to the sewer inlet. If you don't know what that is, just Google it.

Lyle

[Golden_HVAC]

Hi,

I am guessing that you have not been camping often with a RV? All campground sewer connections are at ground level, or within 1" above ground level.

My suggestion is bring a shovel, some ABS glue and a female 4" fitting with a 4" plug that screws inside. You should have a hacksaw or sawsall to cut the pipe at close to ground level, and dry fit the new end fitting before gluing it. It actually needs to be at ground level or 1" below ground level to work properly when finished, so you might need to cut the pipe 2" below ground level so after the fitting is on, it will end up around 1/2" to 1" below ground level. If way below ground level, it might take in rain water, and that is really bad for the sewer system.

Speaking of black water tanks, you MUST allow the black tank to fill to about 1/2 full before draining it, and also must keep some water in the tank at all times (well except for when winterized and then drain it or any water left inside can crack the fittings). A dry bottom of the tank can allow any remaining solids to dry into a large cracker like substance and that is bad.

For reference, if you had a drain hose go from the trailer to the ground (with water weight inside, it will fall to the ground) then the water must also climb to the 15" height before going into the sewer, and can slip out due to the 10 pounds or so of weight in the pipe, splatter all over, and other yuckyness.

If you have a 30 amp hookup, keep an eye on the voltage when running the A/C unit, and if below 105 volts, shut it off. 50 amp services with #6 wire to them do not have this problem.

You can find a Kill-A-Watt on E-bay for about $20. It can stay plugged in all the time, and warn you of low voltage if you look at it once in a while.

Fred.

[jaycocamprs]

mykahts wrote:

Thank you for your reply. I'm going to prep the space on Sunday for the delivery. I think to avoid cable or hose clutter on the ground, I'll get the rig as close as I can to the hookups. I was told that my unit comes with the hoses I need. I'll wait for the 5er and if need be, will but hose.

Yea, but the hose they give you is cheap and wont last. So plan on replacing it soon. When you do spend the extra $$$ for a good thick hose, they last a lot longer.