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Keeping a stationary 5th wheel movable

RVA_Jeff
Explorer
Explorer
I've got a 38 foot fifth wheeler on a permanent site at a campground. The dealer delivered it there for me, as I don't have a truck yet and have no intention of moving it anytime soon. That said, I know I shouldn't just let it sit stationary without moving at all for a long period of time.

I assume I'll have to find a local towing company or another friendly camper to hook up and move my rig every once in awhile, even if it's just around the campground and back to my spot.

Has anyone dealt with this issue before, and how frequently do you think this needs to be done to protect the tires from wear as long as possible?
30 REPLIES 30

towpro
Explorer
Explorer
since you have no plans on moving it, and will probably move it when its time for a new one, I would do nothing. first all new campers come with garbage tires, no sense in taking time to try to save them, they were junk when you bought them.

My 5er sites in a private 4 site campground my brother and I own.
all I do is keep washing it and keep air in the tires.

When it comes time to move it I will take the following approach.

if its because I am putting it back on the road I would repack the bearings at that point and probably replace the china bomb tires it came with.

if I am trading it I would just take my chances and tow it to the dealer.
2022 Ford F150
Sold: 2016 Arctic Fox 990, 2018 Ram 3500, 2011 Open Range
Sold Forest River Forester 2401R Mercedes Benz. when campsites went from $90 to $190 per night.

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
RVA Jeff wrote:
I think I'm just going to use the leveling system and rotate the tires a bit and then put them back down


Make sure you have your tires on boards, whether on asphalt, concrete or dirt. Biggest issue you'll have with moving the FW, will likely be flat spots on the tires. I still say to block it up and take the tires off and store them in a cool, dark place. Hell, with a leveling system, just lift the whole thing up, take the tires off and put jack stands at 4/5 places on the frame. Do it while hooked up to a truck, though.

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Just ignore it. When you do move it just haul it down to the local dealer and have it checked. Or have a mobile mechanic repack bearings and inspect. If it moves within a year just air up the ties and roll. Gives plenty of time to find a good value in a used truck all set up and ready to go.

RVA_Jeff
Explorer
Explorer
I think I'm just going to use the leveling system and rotate the tires a bit and then put them back down

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
BarneyS wrote:
Before going through all the trouble of blocking, leveling, and taking the tires off, I would check with the campground first regarding the tires. Some campgrounds have rules requiring all RV type trailers to have the wheels and tires installed.
Barney


If the tires were removed, FW blocked up and fully skirted, how would the park know? Sorta like concealed carry... ๐Ÿ™‚

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
aruba5er wrote:
blocks would hold it up forever but make sure you don't put them sideways. They are not very strong used on the side. Web verticle, like you would put morter on. I'd start by putting down a piece of 2x10 or 12,to provide a larger surface, then build up the height with block and finish off with whatever 1x treated lumber needed to make level. then lower the fiver down to the crib you've made. I'd just cover the wheels with a good cover. Forget about moving it. Tires are going to rot regardless, later rather than sooner by covering them.


Why use blocks? Harbor Freight has inexpensive screw jacks. Gives you infinite adjustment. 4 or 5 on each side... They also stack for storage and are lighter than blocks or cribbing.

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

PhoneDude_8289
Explorer
Explorer
After blocks and level think about skirting it. This would help protect it from the elements cold or heat. Could give you additional storage.
8289WS
Ram 2500 TCD SB 4WD

RVA_Jeff
Explorer
Explorer
Yeah I regret it everyday actually. It was an impulsive decision that if I had to do over again, I wouldn't do. I would get a travel trailer I could tow with a used $20K truck and not have any of these worries, lol

Although don't get me wrong...this is a great camper, it's just not ideal for my particular situation, or at least for the next few years.

TxGearhead
Explorer II
Explorer II
No don't use any wood with ground contact, even treated. You'll go out there one day and the wood has "disappeared". Concrete, not cinder blocks.
None of my business, but why did you get a 5th wheel? A conventional travel trailer would work fine and be easier to level and skirt. No stairs and more sleeping arrangements. But whatever.
2018 Ram 3500 CC LB DRW 4X4 Cummins Aisin Laramie Pearl White
2018 Landmark Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4
2014 NauticStar 21 ShallowBay 150HP Yamaha
2016 GoDevil 18X44 35HP Surface Drive

T18skyguy
Explorer
Explorer
md_procouple wrote:
My two cents... I wouldn't use cinder blocks they can be a bit shakey after a while esp. after snow etc. I would use pressure treated 4x4's or 4x6's. If you do not have a place to store the wheels if you remove them. simply buy the wheel covers at Camping world or Walmart.


X2. Pressure treated 4x6 work well and are more stable than 4x4. Occasionally a cinder block will crack which makes a problem.
Retired Anesthetist. LTP. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. Between rigs right now.. Wife and daughter. Four cats which we must obey.

Aridon
Explorer
Explorer
Most places we've stayed at would throw you out if you take the wheels off and block it. You'd be better off getting someone with a truck to take it out for a few mile spin once or twice a year.
2019 Grand Design Momentum 395
2018 Ram 3500 DRW 4.10

2014.5 DRV Atlanta (sold)

2008 Newmar 4330 (Modified) Sold

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Before going through all the trouble of blocking, leveling, and taking the tires off, I would check with the campground first regarding the tires. Some campgrounds have rules requiring all RV type trailers to have the wheels and tires installed.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

Allworth
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you are not sure about where or how to block it, call a local firm that moves mobile homes and find out how much they would charge to level and block it for you. (Be sure to tell them the length.) It might be money well spent.
Formerly posting as "littleblackdog"
Martha, Allen, & Blackjack
2006 Chevy 3500 D/A LB SRW, RVND 7710
Previously: 2008 Titanium 30E35SA. Currently no trailer due to age & mobility problems. Very sad!
"Real Jeeps have round headlights"

aruba5er
Explorer
Explorer
blocks would hold it up forever but make sure you don't put them sideways. They are not very strong used on the side. Web verticle, like you would put morter on. I'd start by putting down a piece of 2x10 or 12,to provide a larger surface, then build up the height with block and finish off with whatever 1x treated lumber needed to make level. then lower the fiver down to the crib you've made. I'd just cover the wheels with a good cover. Forget about moving it. Tires are going to rot regardless, later rather than sooner by covering them.