Non 5'er----yet

[Bobandshawn]

I am fairly new to the RV scene. I have a 2008 Keystone pull behind but am looking at getting a newer and larger 5th wheel unit. I have a Ram 2500 Mega Cab 6'4" bed 4X4 with the 6.4 Hemi. It is rated to pull 15,200 lbs. We will be looking for something in the 9K-11K lightweight trailer and try and keep the max weight below 13K or so. It is just me and the wife traveling 95% of the time, but there is the occasional grandkid tagging along at times.

We are totally confused what to get. I think we've actually looked at too many RV's and there are a bunch out there.

I am trying to get some real world evaluations from real people who use RV's quite a bit.

I fully understand the majority of units regardless of who built them use the same components and such. But so far I am of a thought that the actual construction of the trailer plays a much larger role in the reliability of the unit than pretty furniture and size of the fridge.

Any recommendations on units that are reliably build but meet my weight limitations?

Thanks for any offered help. Bob

[laknox]

Bobandshawn wrote:

agesilaus wrote:
With fifth wheels the critical truck stat is carry capacity not tow weight. Use 25% of the max weight of the fver as a rough estimate of the pin weight of the fver. For example on a 10,000# max weight fver, use 2500# as the pin weight estimate.

Then then subtract from the trucks carry weight: pin weight + 200# hitch weight + weight of the passengers + any thing else carried in the truck. If you come up with a negative number then you have a problem. This is a big problem with most 3/4 ton trucks.

Agree with this as well. I have a 4X4 2500 Mega Cab with the 6.4 gas Hemi and 4.10 gears. The payload on this is 2,903 lbs and towing capacity is 15,250. This is a higher load rating than the heavier Cummins diesel version of the same truck. The diesel model has a payload rating of 1,995 lbs, almost a grand less, and the tow rating is 50 lbs less at 15,200. The Ram 3/4 tons with a diesel are only available with a 3.42 axle gear now. The diesel has less payload due to the added weight of the engine. So even if they had a 3.73 or 4.10 gear ratio on those the payload would remain the same.

So from your calculations I need to stay with a pin weight of about 1500 lbs or so. Now much trailer!!I got such a deal on this truck I may trade up for a CTD Mega Cab dually. LOL

If the 2,903 is your door sticker payload, then subtract hitch, other passengers and "stuff", to get your net payload. Hitches run from about 50 lbs (Andersen Ultimate in aluminum) to 250+ for sliders. "Stuff" =can= be carried in the FW, so less will go on the truck, as it will partially be carried by the FW axles. Frankly, the difference in cost between 3/4 and 1 tons is usually pretty small. If you want to stay in the lighter weight FWs, then a SRW 1 ton will give you plenty of payload, including a bit of room to grow into a larger FW.

Lyle

[Bobandshawn]

laknox wrote:

In looking at new FW's, my top 2 choices are KZ Durango 1500 and Jayco Eagle HT. The Durango 1500s all have a 10,500 GVW and the Eagle HTs are all 9,950 GVW (but also have the capability from the factory to tow a 3k trailer, so combined GCWR is 12,950). Personally, I'm leaning towards a Jayco, mostly because of local dealer support. The KZ has a few features that would fit me a bit better, but not enough to have to deal with the ONE dealer available in the entire state of AZ.

Lyle

LOL!!! Those are two of our top picks as well. I am leaning towards the Durango 1500, but no local dealer support. I am not sure what it takes in California to tow and trailer behind a trailer, but there are a couple campgrounds I'd love to take my 14" aluminum boat along.

[Bobandshawn]

agesilaus wrote:
With fifth wheels the critical truck stat is carry capacity not tow weight. Use 25% of the max weight of the fver as a rough estimate of the pin weight of the fver. For example on a 10,000# max weight fver, use 2500# as the pin weight estimate.

Then then subtract from the trucks carry weight: pin weight + 200# hitch weight + weight of the passengers + any thing else carried in the truck. If you come up with a negative number then you have a problem. This is a big problem with most 3/4 ton trucks.

Agree with this as well. I have a 4X4 2500 Mega Cab with the 6.4 gas Hemi and 4.10 gears. The payload on this is 2,903 lbs and towing capacity is 15,250. This is a higher load rating than the heavier Cummins diesel version of the same truck. The diesel model has a payload rating of 1,995 lbs, almost a grand less, and the tow rating is 50 lbs less at 15,200. The Ram 3/4 tons with a diesel are only available with a 3.42 axle gear now. The diesel has less payload due to the added weight of the engine. So even if they had a 3.73 or 4.10 gear ratio on those the payload would remain the same.

So from your calculations I need to stay with a pin weight of about 1500 lbs or so. Now much trailer!!I got such a deal on this truck I may trade up for a CTD Mega Cab dually. LOL

[laknox]

dapperdan wrote:

agesilaus wrote:
With fifth wheels the critical truck stat is carry capacity not tow weight. Use 25% of the max weight of the fver as a rough estimate of the pin weight of the fver. For example on a 10,000# max weight fver, use 2500# as the pin weight estimate.

Then then subtract from the trucks carry weight: pin weight + 200# hitch weight + weight of the passengers + any thing else carried in the truck. If you come up with a negative number then you have a problem. This is a big problem with most 3/4 ton trucks.

Totally agree with this statement! Do the math FIRST then the purchase. You'll thank yourself later.

Dan

He already owns the truck, Dan.

Lyle

[laknox]

Bobandshawn wrote:
I am fairly new to the RV scene. I have a 2008 Keystone pull behind but am looking at getting a newer and larger 5th wheel unit. I have a Ram 2500 Mega Cab 6'4" bed 4X4 with the 6.4 Hemi. It is rated to pull 15,200 lbs. We will be looking for something in the 9K-11K lightweight trailer and try and keep the max weight below 13K or so. It is just me and the wife traveling 95% of the time, but there is the occasional grandkid tagging along at times.

We are totally confused what to get. I think we've actually looked at too many RV's and there are a bunch out there.

I am trying to get some real world evaluations from real people who use RV's quite a bit.

I fully understand the majority of units regardless of who built them use the same components and such. But so far I am of a thought that the actual construction of the trailer plays a much larger role in the reliability of the unit than pretty furniture and size of the fridge.

Any recommendations on units that are reliably build but meet my weight limitations?

Thanks for any offered help. Bob

Bob, what year is your Ram? BIG difference in payload in the past 10-15 years. This is the main limiting factor; you can tow the space shuttle with a Tundra, but you couldn't =carry= a single tire from it without near-destroying the truck in short order. You have to find out what your max available payload is. Look at the sticker on your truck, find the payload number, then subtract passengers' weight (driver is already included, as is full fuel), hitch weight, "stuff you might carry in the truck" weight and hitch weight. The resulting number will be your net payload that will be the pin weight you can carry. Now, when looking at FWs, never, NEVER use the dry weights for any calculations. Use the FW's GVW and take 25% (worst case) of it as your fully loaded pin weight. If that number is under, or fairly close to your net payload calc, then you're good to go. You do have to realize that it will be =very= rare that you'd hit the FW's GVW, so even if you're over a bit on your pin wt at GVW, you're almost never going to see it in reality. As I said, it's a "worst case".

All this doom 'n gloom being said, the newer your truck, the more payload you're going to have. Most of the later model 3/4 ton trucks actually use the same rear axles as do their 1 ton brothers, so just because something has a lighter rating doesn't mean that you can't push those limits a bit, if you're willing to. Biggest issues on the truck, if you're going to bust the net payload number, is RAWR and tire capacity. Many of us on here bust our payload, some considerably, but stay under the RAWR and tire capacity, and don't worry about it. In my situation, I'm just under my RAWR but my tires had less capacity, so I upgraded a tire size and picked up nearly 800 lbs capacity, which puts my tires =over= my RAWR. I tow relatively level without airbags, Timbrens or helper springs, so don't worry about it and I don't feel unsafe.

In looking at new FW's, my top 2 choices are KZ Durango 1500 and Jayco Eagle HT. The Durango 1500s all have a 10,500 GVW and the Eagle HTs are all 9,950 GVW (but also have the capability from the factory to tow a 3k trailer, so combined GCWR is 12,950). Personally, I'm leaning towards a Jayco, mostly because of local dealer support. The KZ has a few features that would fit me a bit better, but not enough to have to deal with the ONE dealer available in the entire state of AZ.

Lyle

[dapperdan]

agesilaus wrote:
With fifth wheels the critical truck stat is carry capacity not tow weight. Use 25% of the max weight of the fver as a rough estimate of the pin weight of the fver. For example on a 10,000# max weight fver, use 2500# as the pin weight estimate.

Then then subtract from the trucks carry weight: pin weight + 200# hitch weight + weight of the passengers + any thing else carried in the truck. If you come up with a negative number then you have a problem. This is a big problem with most 3/4 ton trucks.

Totally agree with this statement! Do the math FIRST then the purchase. You'll thank yourself later.

Dan

[the_bear_II]

Our RVs have always been chosen based upon the floorplan. Which floorplan best fits our needs.

We look for floorplans where there are no bottleneck areas- for example if someone is washing dishes do they have to move out of the way for someone else to get by.

We ask ourselves if we were on a trip and the weather is so bad we have to stay inside the RV for several days or a week will cabin fever kick in. Is there spaces where she can go (dining area) and do her thing and I can go and do my thing (Living room recliner) so we don't end up killing each other.

I also look at the outside to determine storage, ease of dumping, utility hook up, ground clearance...etc.

Like others have said most RVs are reliable and will stay together for many years of use as long as they are proper maintained and not abused.

[agesilaus]

With fifth wheels the critical truck stat is carry capacity not tow weight. Use 25% of the max weight of the fver as a rough estimate of the pin weight of the fver. For example on a 10,000# max weight fver, use 2500# as the pin weight estimate.

Then then subtract from the trucks carry weight: pin weight + 200# hitch weight + weight of the passengers + any thing else carried in the truck. If you come up with a negative number then you have a problem. This is a big problem with most 3/4 ton trucks.

[bbaker2001]

glad you are asking before buying.
saw a couple yesterday, have a ford 250 with gas engine. just purchased a used triple axle 3 slide 38 ft 5er. they were told it would work.
I was told to always look at cargo capacity ahead of pulling.
my brother says and does pull the said weight, but cant stop in emergency.

we just purchased a 2001 30 ft cardinal rear kitchen. we love it. have found there are many different floor plans. when our slides are in, we still have access to what we need. we like rear kitchen over the rear chairs.

do a detailed walk thru and check slides.

[BB_TX]

For 5ers in the same price range, I don't think you are going to find a lot of difference in the quality from one manufacturer to another. For everyone who has posted positive comments about a particular brand/model there is someone else who posted about problems with it. Find the floor plan that most appeals to you. Then narrow it down to 2 or 3 manufacturers with similar floor plans and choose the one you like best and has a local dealer/service department with a good reputation.

[Mile_High]

I certainly understand how quickly it starts to make you dizzy. We started looking again a couple of months ago and I had to push it aside for a bit.

Nobody makes a bad 5er, so you're off to a good start :). Until you get into custom builds, I don't think you will see a dimes worth of difference in quality - they all are less than great.

Take your favorite ones and site down inside, get a feel for the comfort and features, and it will come to you. If you are in cold areas, know the thickness of the walls and whether they are covered underneath. At the higher weights you listed (13K), you are probably going to want 7K axles.

Happy shopping.