Proper 5th Wheel Hitch Position

[RudiH]

I recently bought a new 5th wheel (Crossroads Cruiser Aire - 31.5') and a new Ford 250 Super Duty truck. The truck bed is higher than that of my last truck, and I am concerned about being able to level the rig without doing some modification to the pin box. I have not been able to hitch up yet because I left for Florida for 3 months for the winter right after the purchase. Is anyone towing a 5th wheel with the truck mentioned above? Did you have to make any modifications in order to tow properly?
I would like to be prepared for what I need to do when I return home.
Thank you in advance for your time and advice!

[RudiH]

Thanks everyone for your replies. Your time and efforts are greatly appreciated!

[RudiH]

I spoke with a tech from my RV dealer. He said that he has set up trailers with that type of truck before. The Cruiser Aire I bought is supposed to be about 3" higher than most 5th wheels, he said. I shouldn't have a problem, even if the rig is slightly out of level. I might have a little more wear on the rear tires, but that's about it. I hope he's right. I'll follow up when I get back from Florida. I'll post my solution then, with the hope that someone else will benefit from this information.

[RudiH]

Super Dave - I would probably go to those extremes to level the trailer. It's my last resort.

[Super_Dave]

RudiH wrote:
Has anyone adapted the pin box by welding (bolting) a steel plate configuration to it in order to be able to lower the trailer at the front?

The way that my trailer came from the factory had 4 bolts holding the pin to the frame. I would love to move my pin up but the hole configuration is such that it would reduce me to 3 bolts. The dealer said that it wasn't a good idea. I'm left feeling stuck with what I've got. It would seem to me that the current flanges would have to be completely cut off and new ones with different bolt holes welded back on.

[snipe]

I just purchased a 2017 F250 Lariat Diesel, measuring from where the back wheel hits the ground to the top of the bed rail is 57", my previous truck (2005 GMC 2500HD diesel) measured just over 54". The new truck sits 2" higher in the back compared to the front. My new truck has 18" tires but some come with 20" and that contributes to the height along with options on the truck. My hope is the truck will squat at least 2" in the rear with trailer then with air bags get it sitting close to level. From my measurements I hope to have around 6 inch clearance from truck bed to Fifth wheel, keeping in mind weight limits of the axles and tires along with payload. So with trailer hitched up squatting at least 2" to around 55" and the leveled front fifth wheel height of 61" hope to have 6" clearance. Have not adjusted the height of the fifth wheel hitch from when it was installed in old truck.

[RudiH]

rhagfo - the unit I bought is a CR28RL

[RudiH]

Has anyone adapted the pin box by welding (bolting) a steel plate configuration to it in order to be able to lower the trailer at the front?

[laknox]

Not only bed rail clearance needs to be addressed, but =pinbox= clearance does, too, in some cases. How many times have we read about people having to clip the rear corners of their pin boxes to keep from hitting the =inside= of the bed rails when turning? More'n a few. You can only raise the pinbox so much before you might start having =this= issue. Something I didn't know of when I first started out and, fortunately, didn't have to deal with. Personally, I'll take 2-3" nose high rather than losing bed rail clearance.

Lyle

[Durb]

Allworth wrote:
No matter what some will shout, the big problems caused by unequal axle loading are, at best, Urban Legend, and more likely what some leaders call "Fake News".

It is called a problem, but nobody has EVER published any kind of proof that it was the actual cause of a problem. Nobody!

If you truly understand how an equalized suspension system works it should be obvious that the first several hundred pounds of "unequal" load will cause the system to transfer weight to the other axle. That is why it is called "equalizing". Only after the suspension of the heavier loaded axle has reached the limit of travel does the weight not partially transfer.

Don't misunderstand. Equal loading is the preferred condition and is what I try to achieve with my trailer. You are not, however, causeing some kind of disaster if you are a couple of hundred pounds off.

Allen

Good points regarding equalized suspensions. Keep in mind that many fifth wheels do not have equalized suspension. MORryde IS equipped trailers do not have equalized axles nor do those with Dexter Torflex axles, like mine. There are more and more travel trailers being produced with torsion style axles. I can attest to the fact that my towing dynamics are far different from nose high to level. As stated, level is always best.

[RudiH]

Russ. Thank you for the information. What you have suggested, is probably the first thing I will try. I just hope that I can hitch up at all. I know that the new truck I have has higher than normal sides on the bed, besides being higher at bed-level.

[rhagfo]

RudiH wrote:
I recently bought a new 5th wheel (Crossroads Cruiser Aire - 31.5') and a new Ford 250 Super Duty truck. The truck bed is higher than that of my last truck, and I am concerned about being able to level the rig without doing some modification to the pin box. I have not been able to hitch up yet because I left for Florida for 3 months for the winter right after the purchase. Is anyone towing a 5th wheel with the truck mentioned above? Did you have to make any modifications in order to tow properly?
I would like to be prepared for what I need to do when I return home.
Thank you in advance for your time and advice!

Well did some research and based on model length it seems you have a CR27MK. Nice looking floor plan, question did you get the CRUISER HP UPGRADES? This would include 16" wheels. That is a nicely sized 5er for your TV.

As mentioned you have two numbers you need to worry about:
#1 5er overhang to bed rail clearance, this should be 6" minimum.
#2 How level will the 5er tow, or how nose high will it be.

You can calculate both, for the bed rail clearance two measurements.
#1 lay a straight edge across the bed rails at the hitch, measure the distance from the top surface of the hitch head, with it level to the bottom of the straight edge call this measurement1. Now measure the distance from the bottom surface of the 5er overhang, to the bottom of the pin box surface (the surface that the pin is on) call this measurement2. Now subtract measurment1 from measurment2 this will be the bed rail clearance.

#2 Best with 5er and TV able to hitch. If you have both at the same location, find a level spot big enough for both TV and 5er to sit on the same level plane. First hooked up. Measure at hitch pin location to top of bed rail, call this measurment-1. Now disconnect the 5er pull TV clear of the 5er and lower until it is level. Now measure from the ground to the bottom of the front overhang call this Measurment-2.
Now math time Measurment22-(Measurment11+6)= distance the 5er needs to be raised at the axles to tow level. The +6 added to Measurment11 is the distance you wish to clear the bed rails by.

[RudiH]

Allworth. Thank you for the explanation regarding the equalized suspension system. I'll research it some more to become more informed.

Thanks for your input everyone.

[Me_Again]

Allworth wrote:
No matter what some will shout, the big problems caused by unequal axle loading are, at best, Urban Legend, and more likely what some leaders call "Fake News".

It is called a problem, but nobody has EVER published any kind of proof that it was the actual cause of a problem. Nobody!

If you truly understand how an equalized suspension system works it should be obvious that the first several hundred pounds of "unequal" load will cause the system to transfer weight to the other axle. That is why it is called "equalizing". Only after the suspension of the heavier loaded axle has reached the limit of travel does the weight not partially transfer.

Don't misunderstand. Equal loading is the preferred condition and is what I try to achieve with my trailer. You are not, however, causeing some kind of disaster if you are a couple of hundred pounds off.

I'm not going to start a great debate, so that is it for this thread.

Allen

A trip to the scales will prove what is right!!! A nose high trailer WILL have more weight on the rear axle in most cases. A nose high trailer will tend to chuck more with some trucks.

[Allworth]

No matter what some will shout, the big problems caused by unequal axle loading are, at best, Urban Legend, and more likely what some leaders call "Fake News".

It is called a problem, but nobody has EVER published any kind of proof that it was the actual cause of a problem. Nobody!

If you truly understand how an equalized suspension system works it should be obvious that the first several hundred pounds of "unequal" load will cause the system to transfer weight to the other axle. That is why it is called "equalizing". Only after the suspension of the heavier loaded axle has reached the limit of travel does the weight not partially transfer.

Don't misunderstand. Equal loading is the preferred condition and is what I try to achieve with my trailer. You are not, however, causeing some kind of disaster if you are a couple of hundred pounds off.

I'm not going to start a great debate, so that is it for this thread.

Allen