RV Battery

[Charlie_D_]

I have a 5 year old Interstate battery that needs replacing on my 5er. I suspect that it has been failing for a while. Plugged to 120 V it showed 4 circles. Removed the 120 V power and the RV battery monitor showed 3 of 4 circles. Pulled the emergency lanyard and it immediately dropped to 1 circle which I believe meant that their was little or no power to the brakes. Searching for a new battery I find that the Marine/RV batteries have a 1 year warranty. It is a group 24. Trailer, when not hooked up for towing, is always hooked up to 120v power. Is there any reason to continue with an RV battery or will one of the same size work for my needs?

[Charlie_D_]

Coach-man wrote:
?? A Marine/RV battery are starting batteries, not deep cycle batteries! They are designed for boats, and class C RV's which require starting batteries. If the battery your buying has a CCA, Cold Crank Amperage, rating it is not for you!

I don't believe that is true. I have looked at a lot of batteries the last few days. ALL have CCA and reserve capacity. Also true with AGM batteries. I have found that most batteries fall into 3 groups. Automotive that are used for starting
Marine/dual purpose-Used for starting,trolling motors, RV and occasional discharge
Marine/RV Deep cycle. Used for starting and deep discharges without damage

An AGM battery is not needed in for my use and an unnecessary cost.

[Coach-man]

?? A Marine/RV battery are starting batteries, not deep cycle batteries! They are designed for boats, and class C RV's which require starting batteries. Yes they are a little more "robust" than a standard battery, but what you want/need are deep cycle batteries. The reason people go with the 6 volt golf cart batteries, one they have more amps, and two they are deep cycle. If the battery your buying has a CCA, Cold Crank Amperage, rating it is not for you! If you can purchase a AGM type deep cycle, which does not vent, and requires no maintenance, other than keeping the terminals clean. They will last much longer than a lead acid battery.

[Charlie_D_]

Picked up a Group 27 deep cycle from Sam's, Don't like the 1 year warranty but what's a fellow gonna do?

[WTP-GC]

Old-Biscuit wrote:


Besides....
DOT requirement is trailer brakes must have good working battery in the event trailer/truck separate and THAT battery must supply FULL battery voltage for at LEAST 15 mins.

Good point, and I'd actually wondered what (if any requirement) existed for this. In my mind, I always considered that the battery just needed to discharge enough to bring the trailer to a stop (maybe 20 seconds or less), but that would little good if you were on a hill 😉

For my money, for this purpose, considering no boondocking, I'd go with a Wal-Mart battery. Yeah, they're hit or miss, but you're never going to be any place where there's not a Wal-Mart.

[Charlie_D_]

Wind River wrote:
Look on Amazon and search for 12 volt deep cycle battery. There are several available. Also check with NAPA. This type of battery should be better than the Interstate marine battery you have.

Nothing on Amazon that would work on an Rv. I read once that many buyers of batteries from Amazon were unhappy because batteries arrived with low acid levels. The assumption was that they were shipped that way to prevent leaks. Also saw some posts that acid was shipped separately.

Saw deep cycle batteries on a recent ad from Tractor Supply. They are Exides. Will take a look at them today and I am also making a run to Sam's today so will look at theirs. Because of my needs I don't think 2 6 volts is justified.

Someone correct me if my belief is wrong but I understand that for an RV a battery supplies 12 volt to items that need 12 volt and helps smooth out the supply. It is continually being charged when hooked up to shore power or the tow vehicle. I ass um e that a battery can be bad but continues to do it's job if hooked up to a charge source? I had been meaning to take a closer look at my existing battery and never got around to it until Monday when I found what appears to me a worn out battery.

Reason for my original post was because I always have a charge source and thought that a standard battery would fulfill my needs. My biggest concern is to always have needed voltage should I become unhooked why towing.

Anyone have a source of a display that shows a true condition of battery? Something that would tell someone if the battery is fully functional regardless of whether there is a charge source or not?

[kampinguru]

Since you never camp without shore power, and the on-board power converters are notorious for cooking batteries, I would buy a cheap marine battery and use that. We keep our trailer on a seasonal site and only remove it once a year when we go camping without hookups. I have two Trojan deep cycle batteries that I use when boondocking but I disconnect them and put a cheap marine battery in when back on shore power. The two deep cycle batteries are 10 years old now and still run the trailer for two day with minimum power usage when boondocking. We take a genny to charge them every 3rd day.

[ChuckSteed]

If you have space go to Costco and buy two 6 volt golf cart batteries and wIre in series for 12 volts. You'll have a ton mate reserve power and the batteries are $85 a piece. Or if wallet can afford two Trojan 105 in series.

[Wind_River]

Look on Amazon and search for 12 volt deep cycle battery. There are several available. Also check with NAPA. This type of battery should be better than the Interstate marine battery you have.

[theoldwizard1]

If you can find one, get a true deep discharge battery, not just a marine dual purpose battery. Trojan T-1275 are very good.

[Old-Biscuit]

MFL wrote:

Charlie D. wrote:
Never without shore power.

This being the case, I'd just get the 24. Your interstate was probably a marine/rv battery, not rv specific. I like the interstate brand, but most any brand rv/marine will work. If little cost difference, and will fit, bigger is always better. 🙂

Jerry

Exactly......
Get another Interstate 24
You got 5 yrs out of current one.
Interstate available across US so IF you need replaced easy to find

Besides....
DOT requirement is trailer brakes must have good working battery in the event trailer/truck separate and THAT battery must supply FULL battery voltage for at LEAST 15 mins.

So new Interstate Group 24 works great for your use

[MFL]

Charlie D. wrote:
Never without shore power.

This being the case, I'd just get the 24. Your interstate was probably a marine/rv battery, not rv specific. I like the interstate brand, but most any brand rv/marine will work. If little cost difference, and will fit, bigger is always better. 🙂

Jerry

[laknox]

Charlie D. wrote:
Never without shore power. No boon docking, no WalMart, Either hooked to truck or 120V at all times

Then go with my #2; a single =good= gp 27 battery.

Lyle

[Charlie_D_]

Never without shore power. No boon docking, no WalMart, Either hooked to truck or 120V at all times

[laknox]

Charlie D. wrote:
I have a 5 year old Interstate battery that needs replacing on my 5er. I suspect that it has been failing for a while. Plugged to 120 V it showed 4 circles. Removed the 120 V power and the RV battery monitor showed 3 of 4 circles. Pulled the emergency lanyard and it immediately dropped to 1 circle which I believe meant that their was little or no power to the brakes. Searching for a new battery I find that the Marine/RV batteries have a 1 year warranty. It is a group 24. Trailer, when not hooked up for towing, is always hooked up to 120v power. Is there any reason to continue with an RV battery or will one of the same size work for my needs?

First off, do you =ever= spend any time camping without shore power? If you do go 1-2 days without being plugged in, at minimum, get 2 12v "marine" batteries, group 27, if you have the room. Personally, I prefer 2 6v golf cart batteries. They are true deep cycle and can be deeply discharged and recharged many times without damage. Most 12v batteries have a very limited discharge level below which you can permanently damage them. If you absolutely =never= go without shore power, then a single 12v battery would serve you, though I'd still opt for a "marine" group 27. Never hurts to have more than you need...

Lyle