rv garage

[bbaker2001]

🙂
we finally got approval to build rv garage and workshop on property
contractor asked what I would like on walls.
sheetrock or OSB
he said he liked osb because I could nail to it.
isnt osb sort of fire retardnent also
The sheetrock in shop now is all beat up
thanks

[Dayle1]

bbaker2001 wrote:
yes I bet the walls will have to be fire protected didn't think about that. I will check with Klamath Falls. the others might be plywood.

If permits don't require sheetrock, then use whatever you prefer for the walls. The RV is such a big source of fuel and most likely ignition point that if a fire happened the probability of sheetrock being able to save the structure is pretty low.

[Dayle1]

bbaker2001 wrote:


I am on septic, so debating on running sewer line to inside or on outside to dump before I put he 5er away. comments on in or out

I use a macerator pump to dump the holding tanks from inside the building. I have a 1" PVC line tied into the main septic line with a ball valve inside the building. With an inside dump, I don't always empty the tanks as soon as I return home.

[JTrac]

This shows how much things are different based on where you live. As far as I know there is no such thing as a fire proof or resistant garage requirement where I live. I did my own contracting building our house, had all inspections and have had a couple of remodels that required a permit and inspection. That was never mentioned. I can see where this should be considered even without the requirement. In hindsight, I would have at least given it some thought. At least I have 10 smoke detectors with 3 of them tied our home security system and 3 carbon monoxide detectors.

My shop and rv garage are well detached from the house. The inspector just looked at the framing and electrical and said he was done. It certainly has no fire barriers. Sounds like the OP may have a similar situation. Interesting discussion.

[work2much]

happycamper002 wrote:
RVing since 1975--born in 1965.

I don't get it, but maybe other members will?

Rving with your dad perhaps?

Yes, I was 10 when Dad brought home a vw van and converted it himself to take the family up and down the west coast camping. That wasn't my first time camping, just RVing. First camping trip was before my cognitive memory kicked in.

Is that a satisfactory answer?

[happycamper002]

RVing since 1975--born in 1965.

I don't get it, but maybe other members will?

Rving with your dad perhaps?

[work2much]

bbaker2001 wrote:
both shop and shed are connected

If you have approved drawings they as well as your permit should stipulate any fire protection requirements. The fact your contractor is giving options for non-fire rated construction tells me that it's your call. After you get your foundation or framing inspection, take some time to talk to the inspector and make sure they don't have any comment or say. I have had inspectors go back to planning and get them to change requirements.

Usually though if the shop/garage is far enough away from the dwelling it isn't required. Fire codes are to protect people not possessions typically.

[bbaker2001]

both shop and shed are connected

[work2much]

bbaker2001 wrote:
yes I bet the walls will have to be fire protected didn't think about that. I will check with Klamath Falls. the others might be plywood.

I do plan on getting electric and water out there. I only have a 30 amp 5er, but probably run wire for 50, if I can plug my 30 into it.

I am on septic, so debating on running sewer line to inside or on outside to dump before I put he 5er away. comments on in or out

If it's a stand alone shop it may not have to be fire protected depending on size and proximity to your house. If it's new construction though why not? A small fire in the shop could be put out if the escalation was slow.

[bbaker2001]

yes I bet the walls will have to be fire protected didn't think about that. I will check with Klamath Falls. the others might be plywood.

I do plan on getting electric and water out there. I only have a 30 amp 5er, but probably run wire for 50, if I can plug my 30 into it.

I am on septic, so debating on running sewer line to inside or on outside to dump before I put he 5er away. comments on in or out

[IdaD]

My shop has finished and painted drywall and it looks a lot nicer than OSB or the unfinished drywall I have in my garage.

[work2much]

troubledwaters wrote:

JTrac wrote:
We did a remodel of our house garage when we had to strip the ceiling to have access to the floor and walls of a bonus room above. Couldn't keep it cool in the summer so had it foamed. Not being a big fan of sheetrock in a garage I also stripped the walls since there was some damage after 15 years of use. I went to Lowe's and found some 4X8 sheets of siding with a woodgrain texture and grooves to make it look like planks. It is lapped on both sides so you get a clean joint. I painted it with a good exterior semi-gloss and after 2 years it still looks like the day I did it. I sheetrocked the ceiling by the way.

The sheets are a fiber of some kind but not MDF, I'm pretty sure. I didn't pay any attention to the fire rating if there is one. Another issue is the 4X8 size. I'm sure you have taller walls than that so if you are going for a look you would have to deal with some seams that join the top and bottom of the sheets. The last issue would be cost. Quite a bit pricier than OSB but if you use sheetrock and finish it out the cost difference might not be so much...

I don't think this applies to the OP but just an FYI I wouldn't recommend this approach detailed in this posters conditions. Where I live, a fire wall is required between a garage and any living spaces. I don't think MDF, OSB or other similar materials would qualify. It could result in somewhere down the line removing the walls and ceilings and redoing them.

Yes, a firewall between garage and living space is code in CA and I am pretty sure most everywhere in US. The garage should also be airtight between garage and house to keep any CO2 gasses from passing. If there is a door between garage and house it must be a UL listed fire door assembly and fire/smoke gasketed as well as self closing.

[troubledwaters]

JTrac wrote:
We did a remodel of our house garage when we had to strip the ceiling to have access to the floor and walls of a bonus room above. Couldn't keep it cool in the summer so had it foamed. Not being a big fan of sheetrock in a garage I also stripped the walls since there was some damage after 15 years of use. I went to Lowe's and found some 4X8 sheets of siding with a woodgrain texture and grooves to make it look like planks. It is lapped on both sides so you get a clean joint. I painted it with a good exterior semi-gloss and after 2 years it still looks like the day I did it. I sheetrocked the ceiling by the way.

The sheets are a fiber of some kind but not MDF, I'm pretty sure. I didn't pay any attention to the fire rating if there is one. Another issue is the 4X8 size. I'm sure you have taller walls than that so if you are going for a look you would have to deal with some seams that join the top and bottom of the sheets. The last issue would be cost. Quite a bit pricier than OSB but if you use sheetrock and finish it out the cost difference might not be so much...

I don't think this applies to the OP but just an FYI I wouldn't recommend this approach detailed in this posters conditions. Where I live, a fire wall is required between a garage and any living spaces. I don't think MDF, OSB or other similar materials would qualify. It could result in somewhere down the line removing the walls and ceilings and redoing them.

[work2much]

Sheetrock for fire protection. Also once taped it will act as a better barrier for bugs and wind. To save money you can have them "fire tape" the sheetrock rather than fully finishing it to a level 3 or 4.

Once the sheetrock is up you can selectively place plywood or 2x lumber horizontally against the studs where you need backing for attaching things.

IMO plywood is a much better material than orientated strand board which has poor holding power for screws, nails, cleats for shelving etc. OSB also falls apart when wet.

[Cummins12V98]

I used OSB in my shop. I used Kilz to prime the boards and added one coat of a paint that was waterbed but flowed and looked like enamel. REALLY brightened up the shop. Yes being able to attach to it is a plus. I used coarse thread drywall screws to attach mine so each sheet can be removed easily.

[JTrac]

We did a remodel of our house garage when we had to strip the ceiling to have access to the floor and walls of a bonus room above. Couldn't keep it cool in the summer so had it foamed. Not being a big fan of sheetrock in a garage I also stripped the walls since there was some damage after 15 years of use. I went to Lowe's and found some 4X8 sheets of siding with a woodgrain texture and grooves to make it look like planks. It is lapped on both sides so you get a clean joint. I painted it with a good exterior semi-gloss and after 2 years it still looks like the day I did it. I sheetrocked the ceiling by the way.

The sheets are a fiber of some kind but not MDF, I'm pretty sure. I didn't pay any attention to the fire rating if there is one. Another issue is the 4X8 size. I'm sure you have taller walls than that so if you are going for a look you would have to deal with some seams that join the top and bottom of the sheets. The last issue would be cost. Quite a bit pricier than OSB but if you use sheetrock and finish it out the cost difference might not be so much.

I also have a separate shop/rv garage that required some fancy footwork to get approval to build. It had to match the house which included some bricking and siding. I separated my shop from the rv garage with a dividing wall. My shop walls and ceiling are also covered with 4X8 sheets of exterior siding but it was a plywood product from 15 years ago. Since I didn't want to have climate control in the rv side I just have exposed studs and rafters.

One other thing and then I'll quit. I hope you can get water, electric and a sewer dump to your new building. I have 50 amp electric and the sewer dump in mine. I have an outside faucet on our house that is about 50' away from the garage so I use it for water. The city inspector only allowed my dump after I changed it from a dump to a 4" cleanout. Sure makes it easier to travel not having to worry about finding a dump, er cleanout, along the way.