Those with auto leveling systems

[cougar28]

Our new Jayco has the auto leveling system. So far we have used it twice and both sites we were off level side to side not over 2" and I did block the low side.Not sure if I even need to less the 2". So how far off level side to side before you start blocking?

[Retired_JSO]

Just left KOA in Bristol TN. The campground is very unlevel and difficult to maneuver around. Using auto level, the nose jacks retracted all the way before raising about an inch but the trailer was level. I always put a single 2X8 under each foot.

[laknox]

austinjenna wrote:
I dont have the leveling system but I am sure the next one will. So do you guys put the between tires chocks in? or do you just use chocks on the ground in front and rear of the tires. I was just thinking of my normal routine, chocks between the tires and then in front and read of the tires. Just wondering what happens if the leveling system raises the tires off the ground and what happens when you want to hook back up how you do it.

In my experience, I've often had one side off the ground, or very close to it, so chocks would be useless on that side. As I said above, my system wants to level UPWARDS, so even the high side wheels can be somewhat unweighted. I chock my trailer before leveling and, when done, those chocks will be loose on the "high" side. If I kick them in tight, then forget to pull them back before hitching, the trailer locks them in place and I'll either have to re-raise the trailer to get them out or rock it. This is why I put my chocks =between= the wheels, so that I can at least move my trailer in one direction, if needed, to get the chocks out. Again, as I said above, I'd love to have an option to drop the whole rig, level, about 1-2".

Lyle

[austinjenna]

I dont have the leveling system but I am sure the next one will. So do you guys put the between tires chocks in? or do you just use chocks on the ground in front and rear of the tires. I was just thinking of my normal routine, chocks between the tires and then in front and read of the tires. Just wondering what happens if the leveling system raises the tires off the ground and what happens when you want to hook back up how you do it.

[laknox]

12th Man Fan wrote:
Sorry, I missed the point on my first post but if mine will level on autolevel I don't worry about it unless I will be there for a long time then I might consider blocking before I auto level.

There is a guy across from me right now with a four point leveling system and he has all four wheels off the ground a couple of inches and he has been there 3 or 4 weeks. When a neighbor asked him about it he said he had been camping for many years and he knew what he was doing. To each his own I guess but that is a good way to flip the shackles and possibly cause some damage.

One thing I've noticed about the LCI 4 pt system on my KZ is that it tends to almost always level UPWARDS. Perfect example is when I level up in front of my house, on a paved street. Curb side tires are =always= off the ground about 2" and I have to block the RR jack or it runs out of stroke. The street-side tires are on the ground, but they are pretty-well unweighted. Chocks will wedge in TIGHT if I don't pull them out before dropping down to hitch up. I'd =love= to be able to simply drop the entire rig, level, about 1-2".

Lyle

[laknox]

cougar28 wrote:
Our new Jayco has the auto leveling system. So far we have used it twice and both sites we were off level side to side not over 2" and I did block the low side.Not sure if I even need to less the 2". So how far off level side to side before you start blocking?

Personally, I put at least 4" under my rear jacks due to the fact that they just don't have a lot of travel. On the street in front of my house, there's enough crown in it that the RR jack runs out of stroke by about an inch. Adding that 4", on both sides, gives me plenty of assurance that, on all but the most unlevel site, I'll have enough stroke on the rear jacks.

On the front, I =always= put at least one lego block down (don't need them for the wheels, so why not?) as a pad. I do carry plenty of blocks with me, just in case. I normally power down the front jacks a fair ways before dropping the extensions. I drop the extensions to the ground, then pull them up until the pin snaps into place. After that, I jack up, unhitch, then hit the Autolevel button. Once it's done, I raise the front just a bit, tighten the JT Strongarms, then drop the front back to level.

Last time we went out, though, we were boondocking in the forest and, after a bit of rain, noticed that the rig was wiggling a bit on the last night. Didn't really pay much attention, but when I was packing up, I noticed how much we'd settled, close to an inch, and it =did= make a difference. I'll pay attention to that in the future and simply re-level, if necessary.

Lyle

[StirCrazy]

I was in a few campsitres that were at least 6" off side to side,and I dont prelevel the trailer. I walk around and place my blocks where I want them then hit autolevel. it may take some getting used to how many jackblocks to use and where so you dont get out of storke errors or jack errors, but after a few you start thinkinking about it a little more.

Steve

[Edd505]

I have the 6 point auto. First make sure the zero point (level) is set in the system. I add a few lego's under each leg, a few extra to an obvious low side, or front to back. Let the system level and you good to go. The shorter the legs the less wobble.

[dieseltruckdriv]

I have had a four point system for a year and a half now, and I am thinning out the amount of lumber I carry. We mainly boondock, and have had both wheels on one side or the other in the air many times. The shackles will not flip, at least on my trailer. I mainly carry blocks to put under the jacks feet now.

I will not be without autolevel anymore.

[Crodad]

I don’t worry about the wheels coming off the ground. The frame can handle it.

[gtnsmlr]

I haven’t measured but it looks like my Lippert system jacks have about 6” of stroke. If you’re on a site that uses up 4” of stroke to level front to back, you only have 2” of stroke left for side to side leveling so, before I do anything, I check both ways and if both are way out of level, I block the wheels and save the stroke for front to back. It sux to get the out of stroke code a 1/4” out of level.

[memtb]

cougar28 wrote:
About how far out of level to lift the wheels? I would think that would have to be at least 5" or 6".

Last year during hunting season, we had about a foot difference side to side and over a foot front to back. It kinda sucked.....but it was what we had to work with. The left side tires were about 8 to 10 inches off of terra firma! memtb

[cougar28]

About how far out of level to lift the wheels? I would think that would have to be at least 5" or 6".

[Veebyes]

Can't beat the Pineboard levelling system. Never fails. If it cracks, it becomes firewood.

[Lantley]

topjimmy Wrote:
have had my wheels off the ground MANY times and the jacks can handle it no problem just a little more wobble inside that's all

I agree with everything you said. However I'm concerned that that wobble could potentially tweek one of the jacks. I am probably worrying about nothing but as a precaution I place boards beneath the wheels to take the weight off of the jacks.