Trailsaver BD3 question

[austinjenna]

Im picking up a used Trailsaver BD3 and had a quick question on hooking/unhooking from those that have the same hitch. Before unhooking the fiver do you let the air out first? I have read that some do because then the hitch will 'shoot up' once the load is taken off and could possibly cause damage.

Just looking at what others do.

Thanks

[ReneeG]

Durb wrote:
. . . I'll go one better, an air hitch not only prevents trailer energy from reaching the truck but also keeps truck generated energy from reaching the trailer. A win-win.

And this is why they call it the TrailerSaver BD3.

[rhagfo]

Durb wrote:
I don't get the logic. Shocks and springs on the trailer axles are good but shocks and springs on the hitch are just masking the problem? They both dissipate energy created by a heavy trailer going over bumps. I'll go one better, an air hitch not only prevents trailer energy from reaching the truck but also keeps truck generated energy from reaching the trailer. A win-win.

If you read the last post on the previous page, the OP (AustinJenna) got a killer deal on the hitch, sounded like the 5er towed well this is just the icing on the cake!

I might consider one if I could afford the weight!

[Durb]

I don't get the logic. Shocks and springs on the trailer axles are good but shocks and springs on the hitch are just masking the problem? They both dissipate energy created by a heavy trailer going over bumps. I'll go one better, an air hitch not only prevents trailer energy from reaching the truck but also keeps truck generated energy from reaching the trailer. A win-win.

[rhagfo]

austinjenna wrote:

Just wondering if you just got a killer deal on the hitch or were looking for a solution to a problem?
Looking at the 5er in your signature you have a somewhat small light 5er for your TV.
If you are trying to solve a towing issue like chucking, all the Trailsaver will do is mask the problem, the 5er is still back there beating it's self, the hitch is just masking you from it.

I have always thought the best practice is to correct the basic items that cause chucking first. This would be too light of pin, 5er not towing level, putting shocks on the 5er to control bounce, then once the chucking is at a minimum then go the the hitch, or pin box.

Russ

Well then looking forward to your first towing report, just how much smoother the ride is. I am sure that the most noticeable difference will be bridge transitions.
Russ


Nope I got a killer deal. I have had my reese hitch for the last 15 yrs and its been fine but have always been looking for the trailsaver because the hitch will stay with me rather than get a air pinbox that might or might not fit any new trailer I may get. Also from what I have always read everyone loves the hitch and the ride.

[austinjenna]

Just wondering if you just got a killer deal on the hitch or were looking for a solution to a problem?
Looking at the 5er in your signature you have a somewhat small light 5er for your TV.
If you are trying to solve a towing issue like chucking, all the Trailsaver will do is mask the problem, the 5er is still back there beating it's self, the hitch is just masking you from it.

I have always thought the best practice is to correct the basic items that cause chucking first. This would be too light of pin, 5er not towing level, putting shocks on the 5er to control bounce, then once the chucking is at a minimum then go the the hitch, or pin box.

Russ

Nope I got a killer deal. I have had my reese hitch for the last 15 yrs and its been fine but have always been looking for the trailsaver because the hitch will stay with me rather than get a air pinbox that might or might not fit any new trailer I may get. Also from what I have always read everyone loves the hitch and the ride.

[ljr]

ReneeG wrote:
We too have a BD3 and we never air down before hooking up and have not had a problem. The Holland Binkley head is secure when hitching is complete and the lever is in the 8 o'clock position. Not only does the hitch in the 8 o'clock position indicate it is in the secured position, but when hooking up an audible latching sound or click occurs. That's how we know and have never had a fail. One of the best hitches!

I used to believe all of that also. Then I hitched my TSLB up on an especially steep incline. With all of the Indicators you mention telling me all was well, the pull test failed.

[ReneeG]

We too have a BD3 and we never air down before hooking up and have not had a problem. The Holland Binkley head is secure when hitching is complete and the lever is in the 8 o'clock position. Not only does the hitch in the 8 o'clock position indicate it is in the secured position, but when hooking up an audible latching sound or click occurs. That's how we know and have never had a fail. One of the best hitches!

[rhagfo]

austinjenna wrote:
Im picking up a used Trailsaver BD3 and had a quick question on hooking/unhooking from those that have the same hitch. Before unhooking the fiver do you let the air out first? I have read that some do because then the hitch will 'shoot up' once the load is taken off and could possibly cause damage.

Just looking at what others do.
___________________________________________________________________
2010 F350 CC Lariat 4x4 Short Bed
2011 Crusader 298BDS 5th Wheel
Reese 16K

Thanks

Just wondering if you just got a killer deal on the hitch or were looking for a solution to a problem?
Looking at the 5er in your signature you have a somewhat small light 5er for your TV.
If you are trying to solve a towing issue like chucking, all the Trailsaver will do is mask the problem, the 5er is still back there beating it's self, the hitch is just masking you from it.

I have always thought the best practice is to correct the basic items that cause chucking first. This would be too light of pin, 5er not towing level, putting shocks on the 5er to control bounce, then once the chucking is at a minimum then go the the hitch, or pin box.

Russ

[austinjenna]

I should have mentioned that I always do a pull test

[Durb]

Regarding the lube plate. The hitch head on your Trailer Saver has really fat jaws. I had also read about 1/4" lube plates being too thick so I bought a 1/8" plate from Hensley and used it on my initial hook up. The upper ridge of my kingpin was riding on top of the hitch jaws and was sliding around creating noise. The lube plate was not compressed at all. In my case I have to stack a 1/4" lube plate with a 1/8" one to make a thick 3/8" plate. This allows my hitch jaws to be centered in the kingpin groove and all pressure is on the lube plates. This is imperative. If your upper or lower kingpin ridges are contacting the hitch jaws then hooking and unhooking will be problematic and may reduce the life of the jaws. Once you get it dialed in using the hitch will be simple.

[ljr]

austinjenna wrote:
Thanks everyone I think I have it.

To hitch up, put it in the 9 oclock position
Back into hitch and it should close to the 8 oclock position
Try to push it into the 10 oclock position, it should not move.
The middle beam should be inflated to halfway

When unhitching
Chock wheels
Raise the fiver legs to and let the hitch 'ride up' until its at the top and pressure if off the hitch
Pull the retaining pin
Put the lever into the 10 o clock position and drive away

Currently I have a 1/4 lube plate on my pinbox. I have read where that might be too bg and have to switch to a 1/8 thick plate. Have you guys run into this?

Also what type of grease are you using on the hitch rods?

I was warned about plate thickness for both my BD3 and TSLB but it has never been an issue.

Lithium grease.

I would urge you to go beyond the procedure above and do a routine pull test. I failed such a test once and the result would have been disastrous had I not done it.

[austinjenna]

Thanks everyone I think I have it.

To hitch up, put it in the 9 oclock position
Back into hitch and it should close to the 8 oclock position
Try to push it into the 10 oclock position, it should not move.
The middle beam should be inflated to halfway

When unhitching
Chock wheels
Raise the fiver legs to and let the hitch 'ride up' until its at the top and pressure if off the hitch
Pull the retaining pin
Put the lever into the 10 o clock position and drive away

Currently I have a 1/4 lube plate on my pinbox. I have read where that might be too bg and have to switch to a 1/8 thick plate. Have you guys run into this?

Also what type of grease are you using on the hitch rods?

[hone_eagle]

bigdon68 wrote:

hone eagle wrote:
I air mine down ,if you don't it will bang hard on the pin box.
no harm done if you forget.

Just unhook as normal. I have the TS3 but the BD3 is no different when unhooking.

If you have the auto air leveling with the hitch (which is an option) then you may experience the hitch slamming up against the pin plate when you unhook. In that case you would need to air down the hitch.

Normally though - without this option -- unhook as normal.

bigdon68

Should of used more detail
lower legs until they are load bearing ,dump air in hitch now legs have all the weight .
dump air in truck suspension, unlatch (easy now with no load on pin)- roll forward .
Most of the time the trailer is perfectly level.
when its time to hook up reverse the procedure ,i seldom have to use the electric jack motors.

[bigdon68]

hone eagle wrote:
I air mine down ,if you don't it will bang hard on the pin box.
no harm done if you forget.

Just unhook as normal. I have the TS3 but the BD3 is no different when unhooking.

If you have the auto air leveling with the hitch (which is an option) then you may experience the hitch slamming up against the pin plate when you unhook. In that case you would need to air down the hitch.

Normally though - without this option -- unhook as normal.

bigdon68