cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Wast Valve Repair

ornofrk
Explorer
Explorer
My gray water #1 tank valve on my 5th wheel trailer would not close. I dismantled the valve and found the tank drain pipe blocked with construction debris (plastic shavings, etc. that had built up over the past 4 years). I cleaned it out and reassembled the valve. The valve leaked where it connects to the pipe flanges! I disassembled it again, bought some new rubber seal gaskets (Valterra replacement seals) and put it back together. It still leaks!? I'm wondering if I have the seals in backwards? They are conical shaped. Which way do they go on? Does the wider diameter side face the gate valve blade or does it face the tank side? I used Vaseline to kind of hold the seals in place so they would not get distorted when I bolted the valve to the flanges. I guess they could still have gotten out of place, but I took the valve apart again and they appear to have been in place? That's why I think maybe I put the seals on backwards? I can take it apart again and reverse the seals. However, I thought I would query this forum first and see if anyone can help. Also, is it possible to over tighten the bolts and distort the seals?

Jerry O.
11 REPLIES 11

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
Shouldn't use Vaseline as a lube because it's petroleum-based and could soften the seals. Much better to get a silicone lube.

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

fla-gypsy
Explorer
Explorer
mobilcastle wrote:
mbrower wrote:
When I replaced mine, I could not get the flanges spread enough to get the valve in without distorting the seal. I finally cut the sewer pipe and bought the flexible (rubber) pipe coupler to put it back together. Worked fantastic and would be very easy to change the valve out if it ever goes bad again.
Good idea.


Great idea
This member is not responsible for opinions that are inaccurate due to faulty information provided by the original poster. Use them at your own discretion.

09 SuperDuty Crew Cab 6.8L/4.10(The Black Pearl)
06 Keystone Hornet 29 RLS/(The Cracker Cabana)

sk734
Explorer
Explorer
mbrower wrote:
When I replaced mine, I could not get the flanges spread enough to get the valve in without distorting the seal. I finally cut the sewer pipe and bought the flexible (rubber) pipe coupler to put it back together. Worked fantastic and would be very easy to change the valve out if it ever goes bad again.
Good idea.

mbrower
Explorer
Explorer
When I replaced mine, I could not get the flanges spread enough to get the valve in without distorting the seal. I finally cut the sewer pipe and bought the flexible (rubber) pipe coupler to put it back together. Worked fantastic and would be very easy to change the valve out if it ever goes bad again.
2001 Chevy 3500 Big Dooley 8.1L (496 Cubes)Allison 5sp 4:10
2008 KZ Montego Bay 37RLB-4

Coach-man
Explorer
Explorer
I have only done this once, but if the valve is hard to move, in either direction, you have done it wrong! You should not have to use any sort of lubicrant to make it move easily. Assuming you have placed the seals correctly, just loosely hand tighten the screws, and move the assembly until it is easy to operate the valve, then tighten, do not over tighten, and you should be done! Good luck.

Dave_and_Sue
Explorer
Explorer
I just finished putting a new valve in my black tank.Different manufacturer.A Bristol.On mine the cable broke(under warranty)and I had to replace the whole assembly.Just spread the two pipes a little farther apart.Went in easy.On the Bristol,the seals wider part went towards the valve.You don't want any thing hanging up at the valve to hold it from closing.
2011 Ram 3500 Dually Mega Cab
2016 Chaparral 370FL

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
Jerry, I am a firm believer in not trying to fix valves. If I have to work on one, the first thing I do is get a new Valterra assembly.

If the fit is tight between the flanges that can be a bear on the install. Last time i concocted a method using wood to pry it apart and hold it there (just barely far enough) to slip the new one in without disturbing the gaskets.

Good luck.

sk734
Explorer
Explorer
Email or call Vaterra and ask. That does not sound like a fun job.
Good luck on your next try.

fla-gypsy
Explorer
Explorer
I believe the flat side goes to the pipe if I remember right. As another poster mentioned getting it spread far enough is the key to making it easier.
This member is not responsible for opinions that are inaccurate due to faulty information provided by the original poster. Use them at your own discretion.

09 SuperDuty Crew Cab 6.8L/4.10(The Black Pearl)
06 Keystone Hornet 29 RLS/(The Cracker Cabana)

rattleNsmoke
Explorer
Explorer
They prolly slid out of their channel when you slid the valve into the housings. I tried 3-4 times then finally split them wide enough not to have to slide the valve in, just position it and couple the halves back together. I do believe the wider side faces the valve but not 100% sure. I'd have to see it again. It's been 6 yrs since the last repair. Do NOT over tighten those bolts, you can squash the seals. You'll get it, keep trying.
2010 Cedar Creek 34SATS (The Beast) & 20k Curt Q20 roller slider hitch
2006 Ford F350 SRW,SC Powerstroke diesel Lariat

2003 Harley Heritage Softail (Hogzilla)
and a wifey with tons of patience....

1492
Moderator
Moderator
Moved from Forum Technical Support