Water damage and restoring my Forest River Sandpiper

[beazleybub]

My wife and I plan on living as full time fivers within the next two years and recently bought a 2002 Forest River Sandpiper 26' fifth wheel. We bought it knowing that it has water damage and believe it can be repaired. I have decided to replace all of the exterior plywood because the water damage was fairly heavy to the nose and rear. Some of the roof is sagging on either end of the rig along with the celling. I'm positive I'll be replacing some roof trusses because of it.

My question is, do I repair the exterior plywood and framing first or, do I repair the roof first? I'll be doing the repairs outside and will be covering the rig with tarps to keep it from getting rained on.

My first thought was to separate the roof membrane from the filon sides and leave the roof and membrane intact and repair the walls first. Does this make sense? Replacing all of the exterior plywood will give me a good view of the studs and allow me to replace what's rotted. After the plywood goes back on, I will be gluing new filon on.

Thanks!

[beazleybub]

dayle1 wrote:
Using the LPSmart panels that you are considering is not a good choice, RVs flex and gaps will open between the panels leading to new water damage

Not to sound argumentative but, why then are hundreds of people in the tiny house community using LP SmartSide panels? The panel I chose is structural and suited for 16" on center framing. not to mention, Louisiana Pacific states the following disclaimer about this product.

Ideal for homes or outdoor buildings in areas of high winds or seismic activity

If it can withstand an earthquake, I'm sure it will stay put.

Now that I know the campers luan is up to 1/4" thick, I actually am even more confident about using LP SmartSide panel. It's use will make my rig even more ridged and for me that's a plus. I'll take the 400 pound increase in weight. We got rid of the heavy, sleeper sofa and some of the other old furniture, so the added weight won't be an issue for me.

Dollar for dollar, I'll take my chances with LP SmartSide paneling. ($600 vs $2,000+)

Even houses "flex" on a daily basis. With proper installation and sealing, I do not believe it will be an issue. I will be also wrapping my rig with tyvec wrap. This will greatly reduce any chance of future water damage.

The aluminum siding is too cost prohibitive for me. I'm not planning on spending 5K for aluminum siding.

Thanks for your input. Even if I disagree with your view, I still respect your opinion.

ScottG wrote:
Do you have any pics of it partially taken apart?
(We love this stuff)

Not yet. I will try to document my work when it starts. :B

[Dayle1]

beazleybub wrote:

With that said, I have decided to break the mold and use an alternative method to re-side my rig. I know weight is an issue, so after much research, I have decided to use "LP SmartSide 38" panels. These panels do not require a backer and can be nailed or screwed directly to the studs themselves. The (0.315-in x 48.563-in x 95.875-in) panels only weigh 41 pounds each, which makes them lighter than the plywood they will be replacing.

Actually, the "plywood" used is either a single layer or two layers of 1/8 in lauan plywood. A 4x8 ft section will weight about 22 lbs if two layers are used, so it is lighter than the panels you are considering. Also, Forest River didn't manufacturer the wall panels but purchased them ready made, two layers of plywood with staggered joints and the filon skin all bonded together as a single panel. These 8ft x 30+ft panels delivered to FR on a flatbed.

Your original plan will work, but flexing of the plywood panel between the studs will make gluing the filon skin securely over the full area will be difficult. Use a good commercial contact glue. You also should purchase the filon skin as a full length roll rather than 4x8 sheets, you don't need seams that may leak in the future.

Using the LPSmart panels that you are considering is not a good choice, RVs flex and gaps will open between the panels leading to new water damage.

Another option would be to use old style aluminum siding rather than filon. No need for glue and a single layer of plywood should be sufficient. This may be the best option.

[ScottG]

Do you have any pics of it partially taken apart?
(We love this stuff)

[beazleybub]

I'm sorry but, you are mistaken. My rig is stick built, 2" studs, 16" on center.

With that said, I have decided to break the mold and use an alternative method to re-side my rig. I know weight is an issue, so after much research, I have decided to use "LP SmartSide 38" panels. These panels do not require a backer and can be nailed or screwed directly to the studs themselves. The (0.315-in x 48.563-in x 95.875-in) panels only weigh 41 pounds each, which makes them lighter than the plywood they will be replacing. The panels are not expensive, at $26 each I can completely re-side my entire unit for under $600. The only issue installing them will be with the nose of the trailer. The panels cannot be bent, so I will have to either use a different siding for the nose radius, or reconstruct the nose to a flat profile.

[DownTheAvenue]

I have some bad news for you. There is no exterior plywood or frame or wall studs. Those sidewalls are vacuum formed under pressure and the interior paneling and exterior fibreglass is formed and glued to a substance that is probably a sawdust and glue mixture. Once water intrudes, it basically dissolves. that is why the fibreglass comes unglued. Repairing is very expensive and basically means replacing a new wall. There are kits available to repair by replacing the interior components with wood. It is expensive and difficult. Good luck.