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water pump check valve

balesfam
Explorer
Explorer
I have a bad check valve in my water pump. When hooked up to city water my fresh water tank fills over night. I know for sure because I have a by- pass valve I use for pumping antifreeze into the system for winterizing, and water will seep through when it is closed, meaning, closed from sucking from the fresh water tank and sucking from the antifreeze jug. My Question is, can I use this by-pass valve as a check valve to keep water from filling fresh water tank. The by-pass valve is between the tank and the pump.
21 REPLIES 21

Rangerman40
Explorer
Explorer
Norskeman wrote:
Saw the post - ordered a spare part for our Anderson fill station
200RV-RK $26.20 FOUR FUNCTION FILL STATION REPAIR KIT

Thanks for this info too:
Most common cause for blowing the o-rings is turning the selector valve while there is pressure in the system.

Will make sure that there is no pressure when I re-position the valve.



After the issue I had with mine and the dealer fixed it under warranty I now keep a spare carrridge in with my water related supplies in case it ever goes belly up again while I'm on a trip.

Norskeman
Explorer
Explorer
Saw the post - ordered a spare part for our Anderson fill station
200RV-RK $26.20 FOUR FUNCTION FILL STATION REPAIR KIT

Thanks for this info too:
Most common cause for blowing the o-rings is turning the selector valve while there is pressure in the system.

Will make sure that there is no pressure when I re-position the valve.
2017 Keystone Avalanche 320RS
TV - 2011 Chevy Silverado 3500HD LTZ CCLB Duramax SRW 4X4

howardwheeler
Explorer
Explorer
Did the same thing as well--placed a new check valve external to the pump.You place it between the pump and the fresh water tank. Cheap and effective fix. I also think the internal check valves go bad from lack of use, and they are nothing to write home about to begin with. You can get a much better external one.

Abn1SG
Explorer
Explorer
richheck wrote:
Rangerman40 wrote:
Might not be your check valve. In your water closetcdo you have a selector knob for your water? I believe it says "normal, tank, city, winterize" on it. My fresh tank was filling overnight and I thought it was the check valve as well but it turned out to be that selector knob. There is a cartridge behind that knob with a bunch of o rings in it to line up with different water hoses to go different directions and it wasn't sealing properly.


Ranger man is correct, if your coach has the Anderson 4 position valve it is very common for it to leak back into your water tank and cause the overflow condition. Very easy to replace if necessary. Most common cause for blowing the o-rings is turning the selector valve while there is pressure in the system.


Unfortunately I'm not able to access the water valve since it's behind a panel box outside under the frame on the driver's side, class B motorhome. I have looked to see how to take the side or bottom of this panel box off to no avail. I figure I try the in line check valve first and if that doesn't fix it, then I have no choice to take it in to an RV repair shop and let them figure out how to replace it.



Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum limit of 640px maximum width.

richheck
Explorer
Explorer
Rangerman40 wrote:
Might not be your check valve. In your water closetcdo you have a selector knob for your water? I believe it says "normal, tank, city, winterize" on it. My fresh tank was filling overnight and I thought it was the check valve as well but it turned out to be that selector knob. There is a cartridge behind that knob with a bunch of o rings in it to line up with different water hoses to go different directions and it wasn't sealing properly.


Ranger man is correct, if your coach has the Anderson 4 position valve it is very common for it to leak back into your water tank and cause the overflow condition. Very easy to replace if necessary. Most common cause for blowing the o-rings is turning the selector valve while there is pressure in the system.
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Rangerman40
Explorer
Explorer
Might not be your check valve. In your water closetcdo you have a selector knob for your water? I believe it says "normal, tank, city, winterize" on it. My fresh tank was filling overnight and I thought it was the check valve as well but it turned out to be that selector knob. There is a cartridge behind that knob with a bunch of o rings in it to line up with different water hoses to go different directions and it wasn't sealing properly.

liborko
Explorer
Explorer
Some check valve part numbers:

SeaTech #013540-10
Qest #642500
Aqua Pro #P20810, #P20818, #P20812, #P20809
JR #04-29895
etc.

Use what you can get or what fits best into the rest of your plumbing. Any RV parts store will have few to choose from.

Abn1SG
Explorer
Explorer
No luck finding a check valve at home depot; I did find one on Amazon, will this one work and is it the right size as well? Thanks.


https://www.amazon.com/Muzzys-Non-Return-Aluminum-Snowmobile-Motorcycle/dp/B01LZUKBTM/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1494543840&sr=8-28&keywords=in+line+check+valve

liborko
Explorer
Explorer
Some RVs have separate water hose fittings for city water and separate for tank fill. If you have one hose fitting for both like I do, you fill fresh water tank by opening the fill valve. If this valve leaks, two tings will happen:...your fresh water tank will keep filling as long as you are connected to city water and...the water pump will keep running intermittently circulating water from tank back into the tank depending how bad is the leak.
Installing the check valve between the pump and the tank will have one big side benefit. It will PREVENT the content of your fresh water tank ending up in your carpet if there is a leak in your pump or strainer. The check valves have the property called "cracking pressure" which is a pressure required for the valve to open. This pressure is around 1 PSI or slightly more depending on type. One PSI is a pressure of a water column 27.7 inches high. So if the water in the tank is 27.7 inches high or less, the valve will not open and it will hold the water in the tank.

balesfam
Explorer
Explorer
I have a by-pass valve with a hose connected to it between the tank and the pump for winterization, could I just put a solid fitting where the hose is connected. Also, does it matter that its after the pump and not before it reaches the pump.

Abn1SG
Explorer
Explorer
huntram wrote:
Abn1SG wrote:
huntram wrote:
Rather than replace the pump I put a nice brass check valve in line that will far outlast the cheesy one in the pump. We full time and after the second check valve took a dive that was my solution. BTW, the first pump was replaced under warranty. Haven't had a problem since!

Brian


Hey Brian, where did you get the nice brass check valve from?


Picked it up at Home Depot for about $5.00 in April of 2015. Can't remember the part number or size now, Bill Gehr from Trailer Life and Motorhome Mag's is the one who gave me this fix and it has worked flawlessly since!

Brian


Thanks Brian, will see if I can find one there.

huntram
Explorer
Explorer
Abn1SG wrote:
huntram wrote:
Rather than replace the pump I put a nice brass check valve in line that will far outlast the cheesy one in the pump. We full time and after the second check valve took a dive that was my solution. BTW, the first pump was replaced under warranty. Haven't had a problem since!

Brian


Hey Brian, where did you get the nice brass check valve from?


Picked it up at Home Depot for about $5.00 in April of 2015. Can't remember the part number or size now, Bill Gehr from Trailer Life and Motorhome Mag's is the one who gave me this fix and it has worked flawlessly since!

Brian
Our traveling blog:Brian and Patty's Awesome Adventure
2014 Ram 3500, Western Brown, Laramie, CrewCab Dually, Aisin Trans, CTD, 2011 Carriage Cameo 32FWS 5th wheel.

Abn1SG
Explorer
Explorer
huntram wrote:
Rather than replace the pump I put a nice brass check valve in line that will far outlast the cheesy one in the pump. We full time and after the second check valve took a dive that was my solution. BTW, the first pump was replaced under warranty. Haven't had a problem since!

Brian


Hey Brian, where did you get the nice brass check valve from?

Fulltimer50
Explorer
Explorer
I agree that replacing the pump is not always the way to go. I had the same problem that did not go away for long even after replacing the pump. A check valve was what worked. I also did what the OP asked about. The winterization hose can be routed outside so the water leaking back through the pump can go outside on the ground and not in the tank.
George

2011 F350 PSD CC LB 4X4 DRW Lariate
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