12 Volt Power Problem with Bounder

[mikeyp]

Have a spooky new problem - my Fleetwood Bounder is plugged in here at the campground for the month. The 110v current is solid and house batteries fine and pretty new. About on average once a day, totally intermittently and with the regular 12v stuff running (frig, hot-water controller and 1-2 lights) when we switch on a new light (12v) the entire 12v system stops. Everything goes dark. Except the 110 v (TV, computer, etc) lines. They stay lit. So its not the shore line. The converter seems to keep humming though I have not been quick enough get outside around back and to check it. The outage last varyingly 5-30 seconds. Then for no reason - everything comes on, fine and all systems go. No brown-in - just instant spontaneous start. Anyone have any ideas? I did buy a back-up converter with the expectation of needing it to swap in - but don't want to if this is coming from something else. PS - it always happens exactly when we turn on a 12v lamp - different ones each time. Thanks. Mike P.

[RLS7201]

I know of no 12 volt relays behind the circuit breaker/fuse panel. There is an Intellitec energy management system behind the circuit breaker panel but it only controls you 120 volt energy use. It may be time to take a look behind the panel.

Richard

[mikeyp]

Its a 1999 Gas 36S. It happened again last night when I went into the bathroom and turned on the light. I heard a distinct loud CLICK when it went out, and a CLICK ten seconds later when it turned itself on. Seemed to be coming from the main breaker panel box above the refrigerator. But I searched and saw nothing in there that might do it - only the 12 v fuse board and the 110 breakers panel and no other suspects. Is there anything mounted behind the main front surface of the panel that would require removal to access? I did try cycling the battery shut off switches on the convenience panel next to the door as you suggested. Those loud clicks were different and came from somewhere under the dash by the drivers seat, or on the firewall just in front of it. Couldn't tell which. Thanks. Mike P.

[RLS7201]

Mike,

Cycle you Aux battery cut off switch a few times. That will cycle the Aux battery relay and may help. Also check all the connections in your RV Custom Products battery control center (BCC). It will be located with in a few feet of your batteries. You didn't indicate gas/diesel or year so I can't tell an exact location of your BCC.

Richard
95 Bounder

[RLS7201]

Mike,

Cycle you Aux battery cut off switch a few times. That will cycle the Aux battery relay and may help. Also check all the connections in your RV Custom Products battery control center (BCC). It will be located with in a few feet of your batteries. You didn't indicate gas/diesel or year so I can't tell an exact location of your BCC.

Richard
95 Bounder

[mikeyp]

Thanks guys - checking it all. DrewE - any idea what the 'auto reset breaker' for the 12 v system looks like and where it might be? The big Bounder has miles of wires and I haven't a clue. Don't see it on doorway panel, the two fuse panel next to the converter, or the main service panel with the primary shut offs, line breakers and all the 110 v circut breakers and fuses. At least, I don't see anything that looks like it could be. Any thoughts? Thanks again. Mike P.

[keurig]

dieharder wrote:
Check the wire connecting the converter to the batteries. I had the same problem with mine and there was part of the wire that had worn off the plastic coating and was sometimes making contact with metal around it. I realized that it wasn't a total power issue when I saw the microwave digital display still blinking despite no lights, etc.

you could disconnect the converter and the 12v system should still work(until batt go dead) all a converter is is a batt charger

[DrewE]

It sure sounds like an auto-reset breaker that is malfunctioning and not carrying its rated load to me. I understand that rather often they're used as main breakers protecting the line from the battery to the rest of the 12V system. Should be pretty easy to find and replace. (It doesn't sound like you're using excessive power, though measuring with an ammeter of some sort wouldn't hurt.)

[MrWizard]

Check the 12v distribution "fuse" panel

Look for the battery fuse, this is the 12v main input for the panel
Might be an auto reset circuit breaker, that should be replaced,
Or could just be dirty contacts and needs to be reseated

[dieharder]

Check the wire connecting the converter to the batteries. I had the same problem with mine and there was part of the wire that had worn off the plastic coating and was sometimes making contact with metal around it. I realized that it wasn't a total power issue when I saw the microwave digital display still blinking despite no lights, etc.

[keurig]

mikeyp wrote:
Have a spooky new problem - my Fleetwood Bounder is plugged in here at the campground for the month. The 110v current is solid and house batteries fine and pretty new. About on average once a day, totally intermittently and with the regular 12v stuff running (frig, hot-water controller and 1-2 lights) when we switch on a new light (12v) the entire 12v system stops. Everything goes dark. Except the 110 v (TV, computer, etc) lines. They stay lit. So its not the shore line. The converter seems to keep humming though I have not been quick enough get outside around back and to check it. The outage last varyingly 5-30 seconds. Then for no reason - everything comes on, fine and all systems go. No brown-in - just instant spontaneous start. Anyone have any ideas? I did buy a back-up converter with the expectation of needing it to swap in - but don't want to if this is coming from something else. PS - it always happens exactly when we turn on a 12v lamp - different ones each time. Thanks. Mike P.

assuming it kills the entire coach 12v system I would be looking at the 12V control solenoid system

[PUCampin]

It could be corroded connections, certainly easy to check. My car would do something like this. Turn the key to on and the lights and stereo come one, try to start and the car instantly went dead. Was corrosion between the battery clamp and post. If that doesn't fix it, it could be the converter starting to fail. When mine failed, it would support a 12V load up to about 1A. The next thing I turned on going over that threshold would cause it to crash. Shutting everything off would bring it back until I exceeded 1A again.

[jhilley]

I would check the 12 volt ground to the chassis, maybe remove and clean the bolt and all connectors and make sure all connections are tight. Check to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Measure the converter output voltage, should be at least 13.3 VDC.