โApr-02-2014 05:49 AM
โApr-03-2014 07:37 AM
โApr-03-2014 07:22 AM
wa8yxm wrote:diveman52 wrote:
Your method scares the hell out of me!!!!
Why, Everything is protected by proper breakers, Everything is heavy enough all connections are good and solid there is no risk beyond that which originally existed. The design is soild.
The factory wiring in the motor home.. Not so good.. I have had to upgrade and/or replace parts of it, but this modification is over built for safety.
โApr-03-2014 07:00 AM
diveman52 wrote:
Your method scares the hell out of me!!!!
โApr-02-2014 02:02 PM
rgatijnet1 wrote:The neutral carries the difference of the current on the 2 hot legs not the sum.
Isn't a standard 50 amp plug using a total of 100 amps on the neutral with 50 amps on each leg?
โApr-02-2014 11:20 AM
โApr-02-2014 11:06 AM
dsteinman wrote:60A would be more than the rated 50A but it's not likely to be a problem and most certainly not if it's not a sustained 60A draw.
I am always confused about these adapters and I even have an electrical engineering degree, although I hated the power electrical class.
But, it seems to me that you have to make sure that the hot legs of the 30 amp and 20 amp circuits are out of phase with each other. Otherwise you would have the possibility of 50 amps on the neutral which would be fine for the motorhome and adapter, but I am not sure about the wiring in the electrical box.
Even worse would be using 2 30 amp plugs if both were in phase, which would then allow 60 amps on the neutral wire and overload all the wiring.
So, if someone can correct if I am wrong, I would appreciate it.
David
โApr-02-2014 10:53 AM
dsteinman wrote:
I am always confused about these adapters and I even have an electrical engineering degree, although I hated the power electrical class.
But, it seems to me that you have to make sure that the hot legs of the 30 amp and 20 amp circuits are out of phase with each other. Otherwise you would have the possibility of 50 amps on the neutral which would be fine for the motorhome and adapter, but I am not sure about the wiring in the electrical box.
Even worse would be using 2 30 amp plugs if both were in phase, which would then allow 60 amps on the neutral wire and overload all the wiring.
So, if someone can correct if I am wrong, I would appreciate it.
David
โApr-02-2014 10:53 AM
โApr-02-2014 10:49 AM
doxiemom11 wrote:Your referring to a autoformer which is another useful device.
We have one and have used it at any campground that has a 30 amp plug. Ours is automatic and only boosts when it's needed. We are hooked up with one now and have used it all winter. We are running the water heater, frig and a 1500 watt heater (when it was cold) as our electric is included in our site rent. We do try not to overload though and do shut the frig off when using the convection oven or brew coffee. The cord on it is long enough that the actual device can sit inside a bay and is not visible. We purchased it when we were workamping for a summer and stuck on a 30 amp site that had low voltage and was causing problems. We couldn't run anything on electric, not even just 1 air conditioner. It worked there to solve the problem. Our unit was around $500
โApr-02-2014 10:30 AM
โApr-02-2014 08:26 AM
โApr-02-2014 08:21 AM
โApr-02-2014 08:16 AM
โApr-02-2014 08:07 AM