88 Ford 460 keeps dying

[That1skater]

I'm driving a 1988 Gulfstream Sun Vista, has a Ford 460 carburetor ran V8.
My issue is it will die a bit after running.
What I've done so far,
I've confirmed there is not In tank fuel pump only external

Has a brand new fuel pump, new vapor separator fuel filter, I've wrapped the fuel pump and filter with a heat guard and the fuel line with a Cool It racing thermal sleeve that both can take 400°F direct contact and 2000° radiant heat.
Has a fresh tune up,
Timing is good,
Carb has been freshly rebuilt and tuned
Temp runs between 160°f and 170°f
Running mid grade has

And yet it will running steady after warm up for a good period of time then when I go to push the gas it bogs out till I either stop or till it dies. I've confirmed there is gas getting into the carb, the accelerator pump is pumping and idk what else it could be.

Today is Aug 21st, I had it running yesterday perfectly, I was able to rev it really high, ran it for almost a hour on idle and didn't die at all.
Went to test drive today, started up fine, ran great after warm up, temp was good, and I put it in gear and it bogged out and back fired load like a gun shot.
I've talked to carb specialists and done everything they have said, I talked with other mechanics and done what they said.
Now I'm resorting to posting on here and see what you guys think.
I've lost a job because of this and now am missing my friends memorial because this thing likes to play jokes on me.
Thanks for your time;

[Gjac]

Glad you found the problem.

[That1skater]

Great news guys,

So after i finished the wiring up the coil; and heat wrapping the it, i went over everything again made sure everything was tight and what not i was able to to test drive it with no issues yesterday driving it around my block.
started up just fine on cold start i let it warm up, it held at 160F while driving/idle. all the power was there at acceleration as well as great throttle response.

later this evening im gonna let it idle fpr about 40 mins to see what the temp looks like and test drive it for at a father distance to make sure everything is up to par.

Looks like the coil was the final culprit of my power loss and bogging issue.

Thanks everyone for all your input! Im sure this post will help others in the future thanks to every ones detailed responses.

ill post on here again later after the final test drive to let everyone know if its running great or if i run into anything else.

Cheers!

[Gjac]

Scater said,
"Those specs are the specs from the factory, i dont have a way to test exactly what it is doing at the moment due to lack of funds". You can remove the line to the carburetor and pump the gas into a gal container and see how long it takes. If you fill the gallon container in slightly less than 1 min your pump is working to spec. If it is a fuel delivery problem it will take a lot longer. If you see air with the fuel look for a cracked fuel line, loose hose clamp or loose fitting.

[atsrmf]

I stand corrected!

[That1skater]

My engine temp lowered after i swapped out the bad coil, the bogging was happening between 160-170F, it dropped to 140-145F after the coil replacement.

as far as the manual goes i have the right fuel pump, and it isnt a fuel filter, its a electronic pump , its almost the exact same one that i had originally replaced.

Also it is not fuel injected, ive stated previously that this is a Carburetor engine

[atsrmf]

That1skater wrote:
ill see if i can lower the tank and see if there is a access for a internal pump, but so far i havent found any wire or hosing that leed to the top of the tank at all, my manual says there isnt one installed just the external pump.

Ive already rebuilt the carb and the accelerator pump as well as other diaphragms were replaced, i had talked to a carb mechanic a while back and that was one of the things he suggested.

Those specs are the specs from the factory, i dont have a way to test exactly what it is doing at the moment due to lack of funds.

There is a pump in the gas tank, as there is not a mechanical engine-mounted pump available that can draw gas from 18 feet away and 3 feet lower than the carb. There is no fuel pump on the engine, either. Be sure to get the right pump, based on the year of the driveline, NOT the year on the title. In 1987 Fords changed the gas gauge resistance, so by installing the wrong pump the gauge will register empty when full and full when empty. I should know, I have one just like yours, with a 1986 driveline with a Holley carb.
The pump you claim that is under the vehicle is actually a fuel filter, be sure to replace the element inside, which is available at NAPA.
I am really curious as to how your carb guy didn't notice that your engine is fuel injected, Ford switched to FI in 1987.

[Stim]

Your engine temp is too low, you need the correct thermostat.
That can cause bogging issues also.

[That1skater]

ill see if i can lower the tank and see if there is a access for a internal pump, but so far i havent found any wire or hosing that leed to the top of the tank at all, my manual says there isnt one installed just the external pump.

Ive already rebuilt the carb and the accelerator pump as well as other diaphragms were replaced, i had talked to a carb mechanic a while back and that was one of the things he suggested.

Those specs are the specs from the factory, i dont have a way to test exactly what it is doing at the moment due to lack of funds.

[John_Joey]

Sounds to me like the coil was your problem. A coil should always be bone dry. The only time might not is when someone sprays it with WD40 trying to get rid of moisture.

An engine will run hot when it’s running lean. I suppose an incomplete combustion might mimic that condition.

Only real way to know is to get it on the open road. As I remember a coil has a primary and secondary coil. You won’t put both under load until you take it for a spin.

As far as a small bog still. Guessing you can now notice It since the big one is fixed.

[Gjac]

That1skater wrote:
thanks guys, ill check for arching tonight, and i believe my fuel pump psi output is 4-6 and 72 gph(free flow) what does the 460 call for?

Are these specs from your pump or actual measurements?

[atsrmf]

Here is a good explanation for a Holley power valve-
https://www.racingjunk.com/news/choosing-the-right-power-valve-for-your-holley-carburetor/

[Tvov]

Does your '88 Ford 460 have a Holley carb?

I had an 87 F350 dump truck with the 460, and it had a Holley 4bbl carb. At one point, the performance really started lagging, and no one could figure it out. After a bunch of internet searching I found out that the Holley carb has a rubber "power boot" that hardens over time and causes engine lagging / issues.

A friend did a "rebuild" of my carb which included replacing the rubber "power boot", and low and behold the engine ran almost like new.

I also found with the carb engine that I had to find a mechanic who knew how to work on one - they are aging out of the workforce.

Something to check!

P.S. I'm not sure if I am using the right terminology or where the power boot is, but that is what I read and how it was explained to me.

[Bruce_Brown]

Gjac wrote:
I would think your vehicle came with a fuel pump in the tank. Someone may have installed an external fuel pump also. There is a certain flow rate for each engine that needs to be met so engine can run at WOT. Pressure may be fine but if the flow rate is not there the engine will bog down.

As noted earlier, ours had a pump in the tank and another one on the frame rail. We replaced the one on the frame rail mid-trip after we were towed in. It was better, but not 100%. Once we replaced the in-tank pump it was back to 100%.

Others here have also noted an in-tank pump, the OP originally said he didn't have one, and I haven't seen anything where he has acknowledged the possibility there may actually be one.

The in-tank pumps of that vintage were known to be problematic too.

[That1skater]

thanks guys, ill check for arching tonight, and i believe my fuel pump psi output is 4-6 and 72 gph(free flow) what does the 460 call for?