Alternator output

[Fifty4F100]

After searching here and other places on the internet (before the FCC makes me route through them) I can't find good information on just what kind of output I have on the alternator on my Holiday Rambler. Its the F53 with the 6.8l V10.

[2Bargos]

From your profile I see you have a 99 model coach. Unless it has been changed your Alternator is a 130 amp Motorcraft Alternator.
The one used on your coach is referred to as A 3g,or third generation.
The is two different sizes of these units, one is a 90 amp and the other is the 130.

The F53 came with the larger unit.

[DSDP_Don]

Glenn....If you call or email Monaco, they may still have the specs on your coach. Ask them for a build sheet. It will show every item they installed on your coach.

Here is their website: Monaco

[jolooote]

To get back to your original question...all motorhomes are supplied with very large output Alts. If you can monitor the output at the batteries or at the dashboard 12VDC socket with any digital volt meter you will typicaly see a partially discharged battery being initially recharged at about 14.6 vdc and as it charges, the current demand will decrease & also the alts output voltage down to about 13.1 to 13.6 vdc. If you have a plug in type meter that can stay in the dash cigarette lighter 12v plug you'll see that it will fluctuate from 12.5 to about 13.3 vdc. about every 20 seconds as you drive.

[FIRE_UP]

Glen,
Another way to find out without jamming your head in there is an "inspection" camera. If you know a plumber, or, even an experienced auto tech, some of these folks have inspection cameras that they used for tight quarters inspection. Things like in the walls, to check for leaks and in the auto industry, can be used to look down a spark plug hole for piston and wall damage etc.

The lens is on about a 3' snake like tether. Usually it's only about 3/8" or 1/4" in diameter. You can get really close up shots of things in really tight places with one of those. I can bend mine in all kinds of shapes to get into tight areas.

Anyway, normally, the amperage is stamped on the casting of the alternator, usually right on the side of it, close to where they usually pivot. Anyway, if you or, any of your buddies have one of those cameras, you should be able to snake the lens into where you can see up close, what's stamped on your particular alternator. Good luck.
Scott

[wa8yxm]

MountainAir05 wrote:
Not sure what the FCC has to do with it.

That was a political statement: The background without comment:

Recently the FCC put out a rule establishing NET NEUTRALITY as a rule, this means that everyones packets get treated the same, No establishing of an "Express Lane" with limited access for well funded companies who pay for the added privileged.. In short. A law requiring the internet continue as it is and not make the "Fast lane" change.

Some are saying the Government is trying to take over the internet.

Fact is.. The government OWNS the internet, when you get down to it, the original net, was built by the US Army for military use and was DE-classified after it got hacked.

But that is all history.. NOT comment.

Now for my comments and opinions: (All that follows was edited out by the poster before typing, easier to do it then).

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Duty cycle for a 130 amp is about 50%. So in real terms you have 65 amps to play with. The chassis may consume 1/2 of that so in real terms you have about 30 amps available.

One way to tell is to monitor the voltage of the chassis battery. If it falls to 12.9 it may be time to lighten the load. If it falls to 12.3 definitely reduce the load. Over heating may destroy the diode in the alternator.

I did install manual switching to allow me to disconnect my house bank relay from the chassis.

I have toyed with the idea of adding an external rectifier on my out of warranty 130 amp Ford Alternator.

On at least some of the Ford v-10's it is possible to add a 2nd alternator. That would be wonderful.

[crasster]

RLS7201 wrote:
130 amp, like all F53s of that era.

Richard

This.

With 13.5+ V to about 14.5V

[Trackrig]

On hard to see data plates I've found either a telescoping mirror helps or I use my small digital camera set on macro for close-up pictures. You can usually reach the camera into places where your head won't fit or reach to.

Bill

[RLS7201]

130 amp, like all F53s of that era.

Richard

[Fifty4F100]

I've had the doghouse off many times. Doesn't look easy to get to the front of the engine to view this. Am I missing another way to get to it?

[Trackrig]

Yes, you'll have to look at the alternator itself. Anything could have been put on it or changed if one went bad or if someone wanted more output. The MH builder could have changed it after the chassis left the factory also.

Bill

[MrWizard]

That was a side comment about NET neutrality... The FCC I'd not happy with the legal ruling.
Buy that is a topic for another thread in the correct forum

[MountainAir05]

13.5 to 14.5 volt at 1800 rpms. Below 100amp 125 amp and 200 amp.

You have to get the numbers off the unit to be sure which unit you have.

Not sure what the FCC has to do with it.