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Anyone have a p/n for this hydraulic pressure switch...

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
I have a HWH 310-325 series hydraulic jack and 2-room deployment system in my RV and the 50 PSI oil pressure switch is leaking. I'd rather not remove it until I have a replacement so I don't have thread pitch for it.

Anyone have a part number and/or source for this device?

Thanks.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.
23 REPLIES 23

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
The purpose of the 50 PSI switch is to allow the pump to build pressure BEFORE the solenoid valves open. It is split second operation but needed. If the system did not have the 3000 PSI pump pressure and you had some jacks extended and wanted to extend some jacks, the jacks extended would drop(retract) slightly due to the momentary pressure loss. Hence, the 50 PSI switch. SO, it is not a good idea to bypass it. Doug

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Mountainair

i was referring to the switch blowing out leaking to much hydraulic fluid
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
Hopefully, I'll be able to find a generic for just $8 that will work but thanks for the link. And having the plug on hand is a great idea. I'll get one tomorrow.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.

MountainAir05
Explorer II
Explorer II
MrWizard wrote:
I have a document that explains the operation of that switch somewhere but cannot find it now. But what it said is that the 'system' won't operate if the pressure doesn't CLOSE that switch. So it's like a minimum pressure sensing device. If you're low on oil, the jacks won't operate...or something.


so if the switch fails completely, you can stick 1/4 - 26 NPT plug in there and jumper the wire to ground, to have emg use of the system without fluid loss

cole parmer 25lb N.O. pressure switch

Or just jump the switch

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
I have a document that explains the operation of that switch somewhere but cannot find it now. But what it said is that the 'system' won't operate if the pressure doesn't CLOSE that switch. So it's like a minimum pressure sensing device. If you're low on oil, the jacks won't operate...or something.


so if the switch fails completely, you can stick 1/4 - 26 NPT plug in there and jumper the wire to ground, to have emg use of the system without fluid loss

cole parmer 25lb N.O. pressure switch

I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
MrWizard wrote:
jim you got a picture of that switch ?

where is the switch mounted, and what does it do ? according to hwh info

i worked around industrial hydraulics and machinery controls for my CNC career

50 PSI is like air pressure level, way low for hydraulics

could this be low pressure cut off, if you dont have a minimum of 50 PSI the system defaults to NON-OP and won't try to activate the jacks or slides ?

way to low for an over pressure alarm on hydraulics

pull the wires off the switch
read continuity of the switch, is it open or closed with the system off

where is it leaking ? at the threads where it screws in ?
might just be and 'O ring' seal


It is mounted to the 'Jack' section of the HWH hydraulic manifold.

Here's a picture of it attached to the manifold:



It's that brass colored device with the rubber cap removed from the end. That's where the oil was leaking from. I clean the oil off...it's not much...and have used the jacks several times since then and the leak is very minor. I do want to be ahead of it though.

Here's the switch after I removed it. The jacks are deployed, and when removed, maybe 1/2 teaspoon of oil came out of the manifold and the jacks stayed in place, did not retract.



The oil pressure switch is 3.5" long, the business end that is screwed into the manifold is 0.4" in diameter (includes the threads) with 26 TPI screw pitch. It's not leaking there. It is a Normally Open (NO) and it measured open before I removed it today for the pictures. The other end is plastic with a hole for the wire, and it seemed that the oil came out of that hole. There was Teflon tape on the threads when I removed it so I doubt that there's any O ring in that manifold hole it screws into.

I have a manual and it shows it as a 90 PSI Switch in one place, and 50 PSI in another. Pages have different dates. Both pages and the drawings are for the 'leveling' system separate from the room extension system. The hydraulic schematic shows it at 90, the 'Manifold Diagram', which is a physical drawing of the manifold, calls it 50.

I have a document that explains the operation of that switch somewhere but cannot find it now. But what it said is that the 'system' won't operate if the pressure doesn't CLOSE that switch. So it's like a minimum pressure sensing device. If you're low on oil, the jacks won't operate...or something.

I can use a 75 PSI switch I found at Carquest no problem, even though it's a NC. But of course I'd prefer a NO, but at only $8, hard to beat the price, and I can adapt about anything if it's in range. They are trying to find a part number for me now. Spent 1/2 hour there yesterday and they couldn't find a NO device.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
MrWizard wrote:
OKay.. makes things more expensive to replace and harder to source

do they build their own "pressure switch" ?
which is what this whole thread was about, i know you provided a PN
is that an industry number ,
or
a custom part with a custom thread ?
my initial suggestion was only about the pressure switch ?


AS I stated, HWH builds almost ALL their parts in the Moscow, Iowa area. Standard 1/4 and 3/8 pipe thread for most of the parts that attach to the Main manifold. But NOT for the Slide/Jack solenoids. What I find amazing, HWH has an EXTENSIVE website that breaks down for Parts and a COMPLETE Service manual for almost all their systems going back over 25 years. BUT, NOBODY seems to just go to HWHCORP.com and avail themselves of this GREAT resource. THAT IS WHAT I DID FOR THE PART NUMBER. Doug

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
jim you got a picture of that switch ?

where is the switch mounted, and what does it do ? according to hwh info

i worked around industrial hydraulics and machinery controls for my CNC career

50 PSI is like air pressure level, way low for hydraulics

could this be low pressure cut off, if you dont have a minimum of 50 PSI the system defaults to NON-OP and won't try to activate the jacks or slides ?

way to low for an over pressure alarm on hydraulics

pull the wires off the switch
read continuity of the switch, is it open or closed with the system off

where is it leaking ? at the threads where it screws in ?
might just be and 'O ring' seal
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
MrWizard wrote:
OKay.. makes things more expensive to replace and harder to source do they build their own "pressure switch" ? which is what this whole thread was about, i know you provided a PN is that an industry number, or a custom part with a custom thread ? my initial suggestion was only about the pressure switch ?


Good question Mr. Wizard...I've been unable to source that p/n or find a substitution guide that cross references it to a pressure switch I can easily buy.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
OKay.. makes things more expensive to replace and harder to source

do they build their own "pressure switch" ?
which is what this whole thread was about, i know you provided a PN
is that an industry number ,
or
a custom part with a custom thread ?
my initial suggestion was only about the pressure switch ?
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
MrWizard wrote:
what operates their solenoid valves
If there are no coils?


The solenoids are built by HWH. They build almost ALL their parts. The solenoids are electric(12 volt), but the "coil" is internal. Not a separate part like your Powergear system where you have the external coil that activates the solenoid. When a Powergear type solenoid fails, replacing the external slide over coil usually fixes the problem, no need to open the tappet that is on the pressure side. Like I stated, RVA/Powergear/Equalizer and LCI all use the external coil type valves. Doug

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
what operates their solenoid valves
If there are no coils?
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
MrWizard wrote:
I bought new coils for the manifold valves, for my power gear levelers

Sorry if nothing there fits hwh
But hydraulic fittings are standard sizes
I measured the coils, and I found a cross reference in a online forum post that had an industry number
Using that info I found what I needed

Brand new coils for about $23 each
Instead of used valve and coil for $60+ on eBay

All I needed was to replace coils with broken terminals
I bought 'wired' coils with pigtails, no terminals to corrode and break


HWH does not use coils. Doug

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
I bought new coils for the manifold valves, for my power gear levelers

Sorry if nothing there fits hwh
But hydraulic fittings are standard sizes
I measured the coils, and I found a cross reference in a online forum post that had an industry number
Using that info I found what I needed

Brand new coils for about $23 each
Instead of used valve and coil for $60+ on eBay

All I needed was to replace coils with broken terminals
I bought 'wired' coils with pigtails, no terminals to corrode and break
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s