Here you can see the difference between the waxed part on the left, and the non waxed part on the right side.
With the tape in place, I used some sandpaper and manually smoothed the sliding surfaces. I only used 120 grit and was satisfied that it would allow the wood to absorb the wax.
The first thing I did was to cover the edges of the plywood slide with some painters tape. I wanted to wax the sliding edges before putting any finish on the plywood.
Why? I want the wax to impregnate the wood, instead of sitting on top of a finish. Once the wax is in the wood, the mating parts will slide for a long time before needing any additional waxing.
Therefore, the tape will keep the wax off of the plywood that I intend to add a finish to, while allowing me to wax the sliding runners.
Why? I want the wax to impregnate the wood, instead of sitting on top of a finish. Once the wax is in the wood, the mating parts will slide for a long time before needing any additional waxing.
Therefore, the tape will keep the wax off of the plywood that I intend to add a finish to, while allowing me to wax the sliding runners.
sundancer268 wrote:fulltimin wrote:
Help, I need somebody...
Help, not just anybody....
Help, u know I need someone........
Heeeeeeelllllllllllllpppppppppppp!!!!!!!
Nice mess, a little pocket magnet should help by picking up three to four screws at a time.:B
PastorCharlie wrote:
I have several 4' diagonal magnets that I removed from old speakers and those screws would jump off the floor to stick to one of them.
I also have a speaker that I took apart with a nice magnet, and it works well for picking up things like this.
Sorting them, that's another matter.... Lol.
fulltimin wrote:
Help, I need somebody...
Help, not just anybody....
Help, u know I need someone........
Heeeeeeelllllllllllllpppppppppppp!!!!!!!
Nice mess, a little pocket magnet should help by picking up three to four screws at a time.:B
Help, I need somebody...
Help, not just anybody....
Help, u know I need someone........
Heeeeeeelllllllllllllpppppppppppp!!!!!!!
Help, not just anybody....
Help, u know I need someone........
Heeeeeeelllllllllllllpppppppppppp!!!!!!!
I for got to take some pictures of the plywood piece that will ride in those grooves after routing them.
However, here is the beginning of what covering the rear window will look like when closed.
When we want it open, it will just slide to the right, out of the way, and out of sight.
However, here is the beginning of what covering the rear window will look like when closed.
When we want it open, it will just slide to the right, out of the way, and out of sight.
I then used my portable router, and cut the grooves into a couple of pieces of plywood, that the window cover will ride in.
Continuing with the construction of the cover for the rear window.
I pulled out my Ryobi portable saw, and attached a fence to the bottom, temporarily, so I could cut a piece off of a full length sheet of plywood.
Cutting this way, will yield a nice straight cut, as long as the side you are holding the fence up against is straight. It's a lot easier than trying to move the plywood through the table saw, and takes up a lot less room.
I pulled out my Ryobi portable saw, and attached a fence to the bottom, temporarily, so I could cut a piece off of a full length sheet of plywood.
Cutting this way, will yield a nice straight cut, as long as the side you are holding the fence up against is straight. It's a lot easier than trying to move the plywood through the table saw, and takes up a lot less room.
This is the joint that I will be using. This was cut with a 90 degree bit.
The bottom piece will be 3/4" thick and fastened to the wall. The top piece will be the piece of wood that slides back and forth.
The circle shows that there will be space between the top piece of wood, which slides back and forth, and the back wall.
The groove will hold the wood in place while sliding back and forth. This setup will be at the bottom and the top of the sliding cover.
The bottom piece will be 3/4" thick and fastened to the wall. The top piece will be the piece of wood that slides back and forth.
The circle shows that there will be space between the top piece of wood, which slides back and forth, and the back wall.
The groove will hold the wood in place while sliding back and forth. This setup will be at the bottom and the top of the sliding cover.
I left the center free of screws so I would have space for the router bit to be partially under the fence.
Finally had some time to work today. As you know, I am in the process of working in the bathroom area.
That includes the sliding window cover that I am making to cover the rear window.
In preparation for that, I made a high fence for my mini router table. That is needed for holding a high piece of wood/plywood upright, and straight, while cutting a groove in said piece of wood.
Used a pocket hole jig, screws, and glue, to fasten it together.
It is necessary to make sure the fence is at a 90 degree angle for accurate cuts.
That includes the sliding window cover that I am making to cover the rear window.
In preparation for that, I made a high fence for my mini router table. That is needed for holding a high piece of wood/plywood upright, and straight, while cutting a groove in said piece of wood.
Used a pocket hole jig, screws, and glue, to fasten it together.
It is necessary to make sure the fence is at a 90 degree angle for accurate cuts.
