B+ motorhomes

[Daniel_C_]

I just bought a Trail Lite B+ 211s with 8.1 Chevy
engine. This is my fifth motorhome (others range
from an old 20' Vagabond, and three Winnegagos, from 19 to 32'. This vehicle is fantastic. I am
using it as a mobile office (and sneaking in a fun
journey from time to time). It gets about 9.5mpg
and I believe I could pull a bus behind it if I wanted! I paid low $40's which is about what I had expected to pay for a five or six year old Chinook with a nicer interior, but fewer features
(slide). I am delighted thus far.

[HercDriver]

TonyTiger,

Thanks for the advice.

I contacted DOW Chemical regarding the product (Great Stuff Ployurethane Foam) and was told that the product doesn't contain formaldehyde and would be safe for use in an enclosed living space (rv). However, the product and its fumes are highly flammable during dispensing.

In addition, some discussion was had regarding the application of the 'expanding' foam and the possibility of the foam bowing the panels outward. They suggested applying weight to the upper panel and upward presure to the bottom panel and apply the product slowly to allow it to expand properly in the direction of least resistance.

That said; I'm seriously considering 'Plan B'. Measure, Cut and Place 1/4" Plywood bottom panels (floors) into the cabnets (on top of the existing). This may be a better approach.

[TonyTiger]

Be careful and do some research. Most "expanding foam" sold in home supply stores uses formaldehyde and releases that as a gas. It is usually used for outside work. Of course, most of our toilet products use something much the same, but that is vented to the outside.
Is it possible to insert toggle bolts from the sides? The expanding action of the toggle might add support to the top and bottom of the cabinet surface.

[HercDriver]

To All,

Thanks for all of the useful information regarding the 211. Not wanting to eat the initial drive-off depreciation of a new unit, I decided to locate and purchase a 'near-new' used 211.

Using this thread as a checklist of things to look for in a used unit, I was able to quickly inspect a 2002 211 before making a final purchasing decision.

Practically every problem reported was detected and is being repaired or replaced by the dealer (the unit is still under mfg warranty). I opted for the extended warranty coverage 6yrs/80,000). May be the best $1900 I ever spent.

Most, if not all, of the Drawer Rails were loose or broken. Which would have been odd because the unit appeared well taken care of. No, this a 211 issue ... poor choice of railing mechanisms.

The Spare Tire is gone. So I wonder if it had been bumped loose along the way and is alongside one of our highways. Dealer will mount a new spare and ensure the mounting hardware works or is repaired.

The end caps on the sofa decided that being attached to the frame was too much to bear. Go figure. Dealer will repair (rebolt) them.

The GenSet wasn't pretty, oil everywhere. Dealer to Service and Cleanup the Gen.

The Awning has a tear (perhaps the unit parked a little too close to a tree). The Dealer is replacing the canvas.

I guess the rule here is, when purchasing used, purchase one from a qualified service dealer while the unit is still under warranty.

This unit has 16k miles and is mounted on the Ford 460 chassis (That's more than fine, I'm partial to the 460 engine anyway).

Also, regarding the +/- 1" lean to Left or Right, the previous owner had air-shocks installed. Which I'm going to assume was done to correct that problem. The air-shock system controls and meters are located on the left-side bottom of the driver seat. The system was professionally installed with both mfg & installer plates. At first, I was shocked by the presence of the apparatus on the left side of the drivers seat., but consider it an additional + to this B+.

I noted that the inner cabnet bottoms are rather flimsy and bow downward at the slightest touch. Likewise, the exterier bottoms of the cabnets bow upward. This leaves me to believe that these are constructed of 1/8" ply with about 1" of air in between the inner and outer surfaces. A couple 1x1/2" cross members should have been used there to support the inner bottoms. I doubt that the tail of the unit would drag with the additional weight of those. Post-Manufacturing of the cabnets doesn't appear to provide us with a means to incorporate the cross-members now. So, I'm thinking of replacing the 'air' with injection foam, by drilling two small holes at each end of the cabnet. One end for injection and the other to allow the air to escape and the foam to fill the void. When set, the hardened foam should (inconjunction with the upper & lower panels) form a more solid bottom for the cabnets. I'll post the results of this experiment when I give it a try.

The Dealer just called to let me know that the unit will be ready in 7-10 days. Had to order replacement awning material. Fine by me!

Have a good day...

Ken

[captnaselli]

Greetings from
Captain Joseph L. Naselli

Tony, The TV is operated on 110Volts unless you have purchased an inverter (12v to 110v). The main 110 volt panel located under the sink, brown in color, is control to the 110 Volt TV, and also the 110 Volt converter which changes 110v to 12volts, has that been tripped??? If so, you will not get any battery charging. The use - store control by the doorway is only for 12 volts.

[TonyTiger]

Interesting comment. The Captain's advice is quite helpful. Plusit, I'm having a Trail Lite problem where the battery does not charge when connected to Shoreline power. In fact, I can turn the Store/Use switch to store while connected. When I do this, the coach is dark but I can run the TV! My 235S is in the dealer again today to try to figure out what is miswired. Any of you "elec techs" have any ideas??

[Plusit]

Capt.,

Many thanks, again, for the pertinent battery info—it clears up my nagging muddle. I noticed that when the unit's power cord is plugged in, the disconnect "Use" light is always on and can't be turned off.

With regard to the electrical schematic, if it comes with the unit, then I must have it with my paperwork—but at this point I don't need it.

Regarding the second battery, I'm lost without pictures and I just can't picture it in my mind with words.

I'll read your instructions again in front of the house battery compartment.

[captnaselli]

Greetings from
Captain Joseph L. Naselli USCG
jnaselli@netzero.com
To Plusit
Subject: Batteries

In inquiry to the disconnect switch, when in the "store" mode, all connections to the coach battery are severed. There is no way that any charge can go into the battery or in like manner be taken out of same due to the fact that there is a solenoid switch that does this. You will notice that there is no power to any of the coach equipment.
When in "use" mode all power is restored and charging, is taken over three ways. If you are driving by use of the alternator, or by using a power cord the inverter is activated or use of the gen-set. I have the original schematics of the B + if you want me to make a copy to mail to you.
As to the installation of the extra battery, it is rather simple, just opposite the battery that is supplied by the factory, have a platform fabricated of aluminum, the size has to be 13L x 7 wide x 8 and one half inches high in a L shape. Make a small lip on the front and cut slots for a tie down strap on that lip. This is the same size as the present box that the factory supplies with the unit. Mount this box on the underside outside wall of the motorhome using (lag bolts), off set it from the present box. Make your wires long enough so that you can check the water in the batteries, although I now use a mirror and can see the cells and add water with a large size eye dropper. The battery weighs 41 pounds, so use a lag strap from the propane tank to the top of the box for added support. Add the cloth tie down straps ($5.00) to keep the battery in the box. That's it, cost $39.00 ea. for the batteries and 10.00 for the welded box. I bought two Interstate batteries HD-24DP, CCA 405 - MCA 505 amp hours. This I connected to a solar panel system which is to lenghty to discuss at this time. If you need additional help call me in my quarters aboard ship 561 743-4508 from 0800 hrs to 2100 hrs. This will be handled as a regular long distance call using the high-sea marine operator, there is no additional charges. Thank you

[Plusit]

Thanks Dan. My wife and I have come to the realization that were more boondockers than campgrounders, so I'm trying to prepare and outfit the B+ with the appropriate equipment and accessories.

Any advice is welcome.

Our planned trips are all on the east coast this year: Acadia & Mt. Desert in May; Lake Champlain & The Adirondacks in June & July and Cape Breton, N.S. & Newfoundland in September.

[Daniel_C_]

Plusit:
Thanks for your comments. I just replaced my factory battery with a 105 amp/hour series 27 battery from SAMS, which they installed free and total cost was about $56! Your question about which would charge faster, I suspect would be the engine system, since it charges at about a 100+amp charge, and the converter is about 45-55 amps, as I recall. I realize that there are other draws on each system, but I suspect the engine will charge about twice as fast usually.

[Plusit]

By the way, Captain Joseph, did you install the second house battery, yourself? And if so, where did you find the extra room — I'd love to see a photo.

[Plusit]

Thanks Capt. Joseph. I was under the impression that the batteries indeed were somehow linked and I appreciate the info.

Now to my original query—is the battery disconnect NOT an issue with regard to charging the house battery?

[captnaselli]

Greetings from Captain Joseph L. Naselli

In my unit a model 211 w/ 8.1 L Chevy vortex engine, the engine charges the main battery as well as the two house batteries as you drive down the road. The gen-set also charges the house and engine battery when I am at a site. Using the 110V power cord, the house and engine battery are charged off the 45 amp converter. This is accomplished by the Intellitec system, a circuit board that separates the main battery so that it can not be discharged when you are not plugged in as there are one way solenoids on this board. Therefore you will always have voltage to start the vehicle. If you should leave the van lights on, then by switching the emergency toggle, you will get power from the auxiliary batteries to start the main engine.

[wlbjrincctx]

Thanks Larry, but does the engine also charge the house battery when we drive . . . regardless of the disconnect status as well?
No, the engine only charges the engine battery.

*This Message was edited on 17-Mar-03 06:11 PM by wlbjrincctx*

[Plusit]

Thanks Larry, but does the engine also charge the house battery when we drive . . . regardless of the disconnect status as well?

[wlbjrincctx]

House battery, the coach battery, is charged by either the gen set or when you are plugged into 110 volt line. It is charged by 110 even with the battery disconnect is disconnected.
The engine's battery is only charged by the engine.
It is quicker to use a separate battery charger when using the gen set.

*This Message was edited on 17-Mar-03 04:07 PM by wlbjrincctx*