B+ motorhomes

[Daniel_C_]

I just bought a Trail Lite B+ 211s with 8.1 Chevy
engine. This is my fifth motorhome (others range
from an old 20' Vagabond, and three Winnegagos, from 19 to 32'. This vehicle is fantastic. I am
using it as a mobile office (and sneaking in a fun
journey from time to time). It gets about 9.5mpg
and I believe I could pull a bus behind it if I wanted! I paid low $40's which is about what I had expected to pay for a five or six year old Chinook with a nicer interior, but fewer features
(slide). I am delighted thus far.

[Artum_Snowbird]

I am going to try this one... how does one test if their CO detector works? Or if their smoke detector works?

It's one thing to push the button, but how do you know if will detect what it is supposed to detect when it is in that situation?

Maybe they are so proven that that is not necessary, I just don't know.

[B-Plus]

Thanks Guys, I feel better that someone who knows electronics chimed in and agrees with me. I don't want to fool around with Carbon
Monoxide , would hate to go to sleep some night and wake up not breathing! When I asked the salesman at Home Depot about the difference , he said " if it doesn't work in the RV to bring it back for a refund " I was wondering ? Would the refund have to go thu probate court or could the executor of my estate just bring in the recept for the refund?
Dario

[Orion_42]

I replaced the fire and CO2 with a combined fire/CO2 alarm with voice, that I got from a big-box store for relatively cheap money. Works fine.

[happyjack2]

As a former electronic tech let me chime in on this on. Unless a unit is " militarized" with mil-spec rated electronics, protected against EMP, built to be air dropped from a C-130 there is little difference between super hi end electonics and the base units in the actual circuits that make it work. Electonics is electronics. There may be more "bells and whistles" on the hi end stuff but it is all built the same inside. IMHO.

[cheeze1]

I wonder that too. My flat screen tv was bought at Circuit City, not an rv store. When I think of the tube set that it replaced, I really wonder.

[B-Plus]

Got a question, don't know if it's been discussed before but ,is there really a difference between a House Carbon Monoxide alarm ( Kidde ) $18.00 and the Costar one made for RV's that cost $70.00?
Logically I can't for the life of me think that one is made better than the other or sturdier than the other. I would think that is what they would like you to believe, after having two RV's I have come to the conclusion that if it is at an RV store it's going to cost twice as much because it " made for an RV " to me electronics are electronics be they TV's ,Microwaves or radios, nothing has bit the dust being in my RV yet. But if someone were to make a Microwave or TV just for RV's I think they would market it as being made to take the RV abuse not like ones made for a house, so back to the original question is there really a difference??
Thanks Dario

[burlmart]

" The spare tire cover is worn, I was thinking of replacing it. Advice is welcome. "

Since the elastic was weakening, we sewed two parallel elastic straps to the bach of the cover that hold it on the spare.

[cheeze1]

I figured that! I was going to put the ladders so the 'A' faces the sides of the rig, so they resist pushing.

[Orion_42]

Chas, be careful because when you push against the nose to polish it, the ladder will go in the other direction! :E

[cheeze1]

Thanks Orion, I think 800 paper would probably do the trick, since it's pretty dull. I tried some Meguiar's 'medium cut' on the side, just by hand and it did bring it up some, but not to shiny.
I thought that clamping a 2x10 to my 6' step ladders might work as a scaffold? I've tried the hanging over routine, and if I had a tail like a Lemur maybe it would work. 😉

[Orion_42]

cheeze1 wrote:
I was wondering if anyone had any info on what kind of compound I should get to buff out the front fiberglass cap. Should I try a boat dealer?

Not sure about your other questions, but what you should use depends on how oxidized it is. If it is really, really dull, I would (and did) wet sand first, using 800 grit wet/dry paper. Then follow up with heavy duty rubbing compound using a machine buffer (by hand will be very laborious). Lastly use a fiberglass polishing compound. Boat dealers or auto parts stores should have all the above. Now, the big question, is how are you going to access it? I did some acrobatics by hanging down from the roof, but I can't say I recommend it. I need to find a better way. Scaffolding might work, but you'd have a wide one.

[cheeze1]

Hi gang, 213 is home and the new foglights are installed and they WORK! While I was draining the oil I began to plan where I would install the old fogs for auxiliary lights in the rear. In the midst of all that, I decided to check the lights to make sure the wiring was ok. Turns out one of the lights was gone, and the screws to open it were rusted shut. I was not going to spend any more time on a $30 pair of foglights. SO, I now have a switch on the dash that does nothing. I also have a backup sensor which I added but did not hard wire, so I ended up wiring it to that switch and got rid of the cigar lighter plug.
I was wondering if anyone had any info on what kind of compound I should get to buff out the front fiberglass cap. Should I try a boat dealer?
In addition, has anyone had the edge of their steel wheels where they contact the tire rust? How do fix without a total 'frame off'?
The spare tire cover is worn, I was thinking of replacing it. Advice is welcome.

[Gene_in_NE]

cheeze1 wrote:
Gene, that looks like a sortof 'regular' alarm clock. How did you mount it?...

It has a slot on the back side for a nail or screw. I carefully measured the size of screw head that would work and length that would not go through the cabinet. Predrilled a small hole and carefully inserted screw. Then placed small velcro dots in lower corner of the clock to keep it from jumping off the screw and swinging side to side. 😉

[cheeze1]

burl, it's not that hard....you just need REALLY WIDE TAPE!!! and an open field.
🙂

[burlmart]

Orion_42 wrote:


Just standard automotive prep - prep/cleaner to remove any wax/greas; wet sand with 600 grit paper; mask; auto primer; acrylic paint applied with professional paint gun (I suppose one could do with spray cans, but it probably wouldn't come out as good).

Oh well, I guess I will stick with white. With my low vision, even painting the battery tray with a brush had to be done by Martha. Picture Mr. Magoo with a paint sprayer!