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Best way to fix this?

cm2785
Explorer
Explorer
Hey guys, so the guy who took my Intelitec panel out to have it rebuilt was too rough I think and when I went to put it back in I immediately realized one of the holes was stripped (it’s a fake wall so the material is nothing). I was able to get a slightly bigger screw and nursed it in there but six months later it backed out because it had no bite anymore. Any ideas on what to do next? I was thinking about gluing a little piece of wood back there to bite into, or maybe just putting some kind of nut but would need to attach it so it doesn’t spin.. there doesn’t need to be much to hold this thing but I figured I’d ask for ideas and see if anyone has a better one than me. Thanks!

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15 REPLIES 15

TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Explorer
Years ago, in my younger days, my wife wanted a wooden cut out of a goose on the front of the refrigerator so I used RTV silicone. You could have lifted the fridge with it. When we moved from the apartment, it took me hours to get that stinking goose off that fridge! Live and learn 🙂

RayJayco
Explorer
Explorer
cm2785 wrote:
2112 wrote:
cm2785 wrote:
Thanks guys but this is a really flimsy thin wall.
I use wall anchors for several things. Do you have a toilet paper roll holder mounted on the bathroom wall? How is it mounted.


Holder is mounted to inside cabinet door... I’m telling you a wall anchor into not much more than cardboard won’t bite

I agree. On the backside of a door, to keep from someone getting scratched or injured from the fastener, a piece of wood or something decorative such as a plaque would provide strength and safety. Wooden "Worlds greatest chef" plaque or whatever you can put a screw into...
Good luck!
Inquiring minds want to know...

RayJayco
Explorer
Explorer
There are different ways to anchor into thin material.

If you have access to back side, a piece of wood is great and would be strongest as it would spread the weight over a larger area, basically the size of wood.


If the material is inaccessible on back, then a toggle, molly or perhaps a zip-it(screw in anchor) or even a plastic plug mentioned above, would be ok for drywall, I don't recommend either for less than 3/8" material unless what you are fastening is light weight and doesn't need to move.)


After wood backing, toggles would be your next strongest, you just need to watch the depth.

Molly's come in various lengths including the thin material that you are working with, just be real careful not to strip them!

With what you are securing, just a light weight monitor panel, any of the above methods are sufficient.

I just saved time and found a page that will explain some anchoring methods...

Pictures and info on thin wall fastening

Good luck!
Inquiring minds want to know...

cm2785
Explorer
Explorer
2112 wrote:
cm2785 wrote:
Thanks guys but this is a really flimsy thin wall.
I use wall anchors for several things. Do you have a toilet paper roll holder mounted on the bathroom wall? How is it mounted.


Holder is mounted to inside cabinet door... I’m telling you a wall anchor into not much more than cardboard won’t bite

fcooper
Explorer
Explorer
What about using an auto body fastener called "Nut, Extruded U". Look at the link below for an illustration.
illustration of extruded U nut

If the wall board is thin, and close to the edge, the above might work.

Fred
Fred & Vicki
St. Augustine, Florida

TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Explorer
cm2785 wrote:
Thanks guys but this is a really flimsy thin wall. The wall fasteners would never bite and I like the rivnut idea but they would go right through the material too 😞


There's a tool to expand them and pinch the wall without having to depend on them not spinning. It pushes against the flange while pulling on the machine screw. A must have tool.

VIDEO

https://www.amazon.com/Farmunion-Setting-Hollow-Cavity-Plasterboard/dp/B01HRSSYWS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8...

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
wolfe10 wrote:
Yes, gluing a small board (hold in place with clamp until glue dries and then use OE screw.

Actually, I would do both sides so you have a solid mounting for the future.


Like that plan. Very much. A 1x2 or 1x3 should do nicely.. And thanks I may do that.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
cm2785 wrote:
Thanks guys but this is a really flimsy thin wall.
I use wall anchors for several things. Do you have a toilet paper roll holder mounted on the bathroom wall? How is it mounted.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

2_many_2
Explorer III
Explorer III
I repaired several items like this in my old RV, I found the best way was to cut some small pieces of plywood, something like 1/2" thick and about 1" wide by 3" or 4" long.

Then glue in the back with JB Quick, in twenty minutes you can re-install the screws. The plywood is better than regular wood because it does not split in such a small application.

I actually carried some spare pieces and JB Quick because stuff was falling off all the time :B

Tom_Barb
Explorer
Explorer
I tape over the front of the hole, and then fill from the back with a good epoxy 2 part mender allowing a lump on the back, when hard re-drill hole.
2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JL toad.

cm2785
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks guys but this is a really flimsy thin wall. The wall fasteners would never bite and I like the rivnut idea but they would go right through the material too 😞

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
I've fixed similar problems with Rivnuts but I already have the tool and plenty of fasteners. These are sort of like threaded pop rivets.

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
Wall Anchors Pick the size that fits your screw
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
I've glued backer board pieces in place, or secured them with small flat head wood screws, depending on the materials and location. Either way works well.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate