Class C overhead Cabin Leak

[bill257]

I have class C Motorhome, Coachman Freelander BH 32 2011.I have a problem with leak in the overhead cabin.I got it checked last year at the RV Service Shop.They checked it out with some instrument which check the leaks in the Cabin.Resealed the cabin area.This year again I have noticed water under the mattress.I do not know what to do.Any suggestions.

[bill257]

I talk to a mobile Tech who will bring with him a special machine to check the leak and he was confident that if there is a leak he will find it and mark it out. Once the leak I will ask advice how to seal it.I will keep you all updated.

[DrewE]

I would not think the rubber needs coating (what you're calling resealing) after seven years unless your cleaning regimen involves a whole lot of scrubbing, etc and has worn off the white outer surface.

The two standard products used to seal seams and protrusions and such are Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Joint Compound (which requires periodic inspection and renewal/coating over as it ages) and Eternabond tape. The Dicor product is only for horizontal surfaces; it's runny rather like yogurt as it comes out, which is how it self-levels, and eventually dries to something around the consistency of used chewing gum. Eternabond tape, properly applied, is said to last longer, but it does require following its directions fairly carefully.

[bill257]

I just have a side question.My Class C is 7 years old and only 17000 miles on it.I regularly inspect my roof and clean it.Is it time to reseal the whole roof with Rubber liquid or any other suggested product.What caulking should I use for edges, antennas, vents etc.My roof is rubber but does not know whether IT is EPDM or TPO.Does it matter if I want to use Rubber Liquid by DIY?

[SidecarFlip]

Considering our shop charges a flat rate of $135 per hour on RV related repairs, I's say it's reasonable, however, you can do that yourself. I'm 68 and I would have no issues removing old caulk and resealing the seams, popping clearance light fixtures and resealing them or recaulking windows. It's not hard, materials are available online and some Lowes have them and tools are basic. Scraper or stiff putty knife and a screwdriver or square drive bit for drive screws and some rime on your part.

Best part about doing it yourself is, you'll know it's done right because you did it.

[bill257]

Thanks for everyone's response.I did get it pressure tested last year and after that Technician at the RV Shop sealed the areas.Still it did not work.I took it again to a different RV Shop.Technician inspected the roof and top of cabin area.Initially he said it is difficult to say where the leak is but you can reseal the whole roof.I said to him I have no issues anywhere else except the overhead cabin.Than he said he can reseal the cabin area,all front lights and also two side windows.I told him that I did get it resealed last year and he said whoever did it just put the seal on the old one.I will scrap the old one and put new one.It will take 6-8 hours of labor and 40 dollar of material for just cabin area including top lights and side windows.Approximate cost about 720 dollars.110 dollars per hour labor charge.Is this is reasonable or too much.

[SidecarFlip]

On e of the best and least intrusive methods for determining if there is rot and mold under the wallboard without doing a destructive examination is use a non contact IR thermometer and shoot a known (dry) wall and then shoot the front wall where the water is or where you think it's coming from.

If the IR says it's a couple degrees warmer than the known dry wall. You not only have a leak, you have rot,or soaked insulation or mold growing, probably all 3. Mold creates heat, rot creates heat, soaked insulation molds and creates hear. That space is dark and waem, great for growing mold.

[ksg5000]

Cabover area of Class C's are common source for water issues. Sometimes it's the front facing windows (PIA to fix), sometimes it's just the side windows which can be removed/re-caulked, sometimes it's the running lights, roof antennae etc.

Finding the leak source is priority 1. If me I would spend $100 or so and have the rig pressure tested - should identify all the leak sources and save you much time. In the interim I suggest you park your rig so the front is at least a couple inches higher than the back - this will encourage rain to shed away from your likely leak source - might help until you find/fix the problem.

In my case the leak source was a side window - I watched a youtube video on how to fix and it was 1 hour easy fix. So easy I did the same for all the windows when I had some free time.

Water leaks in the cabover area will migrate to the lowest level - that's often the front nose of the cab area - depending on the rig you might be able to drain that area by removing some trim which runs on the bottom of the cabover above/front of the front chassis window. Regardless - make sure you don't have standing water or wood rot your cab area .... zillion posts on this type of issue.

[SidecarFlip]

First thing you need to do is take it to a competent RV repair facility that can do a 'Blower Door Test', or in the case of an RV, an authorized Seal Tite Systems franchised dealer and have them perform the test and isolate (and mark) where the outside seals are failed (why it's leaking). Once you do that, you need to ascertain how bad the water intrusion is, how much under the wallboard rot there is, if there is a mold issue (most likely) and remediation cost and if the cost is worth it or nor. It's not cheap by a long shot and the unit may not be worth the cost of repair.

Seal and caulk continuing maintenance is the most important thing concerning RV ownership, seals and caulk must be inspected every 6 months or what happens is what you have... water intrusion and most likely rotting structure, soaked insulation, mold growth and a serious issue.

[rockhillmanor]

Same here found wet spots under overhead mattress.

The water was coming from the weep holes of the windows on the side of the cab over.

I also got to see it first hand during a rain storm. The water was pouring down the side from the window weep hole on one side.

Went outside and could see the water just pouring off the roof down that side. My MH was not perfectly level so the majority of the water on the roof was coming down on 'that' side and the weep hole could not handle it.

I ran my front tire up on just one leveling block on that side and it stopped coming in.

Sooo....
1. The weep holes could be plugged with dust dirt leaves etc. So the water will come in.

or

2. MH not level during a real good down pour of rain.

[midnightsadie]

call a mobil tech there faster, smarter, cheaper, and will find the leak.