Coachmen Mirada 2004 Brake Question ?

[MikeDavies]

Hey all.
We had our RV in storage for too long without driving it.
When we decided to move back in, on the first test run,
the brakes seemed very mushy. We got it landed safely and
then went back to check brake fluid and so forth. The brake pedal
seems to react normally now. As in when you push on the brakes the pedal doesn't sink to the floor????

We still have to take it out for a real test drive but we are waiting for a time when traffic is light.

Was hoping someone might have an idea whats up.
Brake fluid level is fine. I observed the reservoir while my wife hit the brakes, no air bubbles in the tank.
No visible leaks anywhere. I opened the reservoir cap and checked the vent, everything looks fine.

Thanks in advance
Mike and Billie

[MikeDavies]

Thanks
One other weird thing I encountered.
It has the Hydro Max braking system. It has 2 reservoirs.
You cant see through the tank and there are no dipsticks.
Jeebus.

[crasster]

I'd agree with the poster about bleeding the brake system. Get all the air out of the lines completely. Remember that your RV will have tremendously long brake lines compared to a vehicle so bleed them good. Be careful when you add brake fluid that it doesn't touch your paint!

[MikeDavies]

PS:
It has the Hydromax Brake Booster.
Mike

[MikeDavies]

Hi,
Ford 2003 Class A Motorhome Chassis.
I have the little manual for the Chassis
and thats all it says. No other numbers or model.
Thanks
Mike

[wolfe10]

Mike,

Please post what chassis you have.

That will make answers a LOT more relevant.

[MikeDavies]

Thanks all.
When we first pulled it out of the storage spot,
the brakes were mushy. Thats why this is a bit confusing.
I been searching for information on how these systems work.
I think it has a hydraulic pump for the brakes but I am not sure.
I think the advice to take it to a shop is good
Thanks

[wolfe10]

garyemunson wrote:
First VERY IMPORTANT thing to do is bleed/flush the brake lines thoroughly with fresh brake fluid. Critical to do that to get rid of moisture that finds it's way into a brake system when it sits. Standard brake fluid is designed to absorb moisture to protect the metal parts but it will eventually get saturated and that is why brake fluid should be flushed on a regular basis.

While I totally agree with the need to have fresh/non-hydrated brake fluid, the OP is not showing signs of old fluid.

Old/hydrated brake fluid will surely FADE after one or two stops, as temperatures in the calipers exceed the boiling point of the bad brake fluid.

But, even old brake fluid will not be mushy on the first stop.

To the OP: You need someone familiar with your braking system (probably Ford??) to check it. Master cylinder is one of the likely suspects.

[garyemunson]

First VERY IMPORTANT thing to do is bleed/flush the brake lines thoroughly with fresh brake fluid. Critical to do that to get rid of moisture that finds it's way into a brake system when it sits. Standard brake fluid is designed to absorb moisture to protect the metal parts but it will eventually get saturated and that is why brake fluid should be flushed on a regular basis.

[ArchHoagland]

Gas or diesel?