Comparing 3 Class Bs

[suzago]

I am researching new-to-me Class Bs. 65 year old woman, traveling solo with a dog. Long weekends and summer trips up to 2-3 weeks at a time. Handy with tools but limited automotive experience, but I anticipate getting a Good Sam's (or other?) membership. Budget: around 25k.

Current available candidates, all in apparently good condition and in my budget, in my area are:

1) 2001 Kodiak VXL 2000 (22 ft) 40k miles

2) 1999 Chinook Premier, 20 ft, 78k miles, owner says no solar but I thought they all came solar-ready?

3) 2004 GulfStream BT Cruiser (double-slide, so not really a Class B) (25 ft) 80k miles (giant compared to the other two)

I plan on having anything checked out by a RV mechanic, and aside from asking about leaks, repairs, generator usage, what else do I really need to know? I anticipate I will have to fix and upgrade things. Appreciate any advice!

Thank you in advance!

[magicbus]

The reality is that all three of the vehicles that she has listed are small Class C rigs. None are B's.

So perhaps she needs to go over to the Class C board to find people who are familiar with these rigs.

This really is the best advice. Through no fault of the original poster who is new to RVing, the listed “B” RVs aren’t actually class B but really class C. Having moved (happily) from a Class A to a B I can tell you that a B and C are quite different.

That said, given the description on how it will be used I think the OP might want to consider a true class B. The problem there is that true class B units cost more “per square foot”.

Dave

[theoldwizard1]

suzago wrote:
I anticipate I will have to fix and upgrade things. Appreciate any advice!

I tell this to everyone looking at an older RV. If it is over 10 years ASSUME you are going to need a full replacement roof. Not just a rubber membrane replacement, but a tear off the plywood and examine and replace rotten roof supports.

Now if it is a true Class B, with either the original metal roof or a fiberglass raised roof, you just need to inspect for cracks and seams. (As stated by mumkin, those are all small Class C.)

Windows are another issue. Aftermarket windows may have to be removed, edges cleaned and reinstalled.

[Lwiddis]

Take off your list any that don’t meet your bathroom needs including fresh water and waste tank capacities. Water is the limiting factor with RVs. Have a pro inspect the unit but even then all those you mentioned are 20+ years old.

[mumkin]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

May I respectfully suggest looking at small class c units. There is a lot more bang for the buck and a shower that is much more easily used. They come as small as 22 feet, with 26 feet being the ideal size as far as wheel base to length ratio goes.

The reality is that all three of the vehicles that she has listed are small Class C rigs. None are B's.

So perhaps she needs to go over to the Class C board to find people who are familiar with these rigs.

BTW Suzago, there was no solar on rigs back in '99 so you won't find anything solar ready of that age. My first rig with a solar option was the 2015. Not that a good solar company couldn't add it.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

May I respectfully suggest looking at small class c units. There is a lot more bang for the buck and a shower that is much more easily used. They come as small as 22 feet, with 26 feet being the ideal size as far as wheel base to length ratio goes.