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Dash A/C blows out of defrost when climbing or head wind

kmb1966
Explorer
Explorer
My dash a/c blows cold air, but at times when climbing hills/overpasses or traveling in a head wind, the air will decrease out of the vents, and blow out of the defrost vents. Upon slowing down, the air will return to the front vents. I've brought it to nearly every shop in town, with most scratching their heads after replacing lines and check valves and saying 'just live with it'. No. I don't want to live with it. I want it to blow out of the front vents. I've heard (on this forum) that a secondary vacuum pump could be added to solve this problem. My question is WHERE do I find this pump, and WHERE would it be installed? I'm clueless on where I would put this auxiliary pump for additional vacuum. :h
2000 Ford F53 Chassis
32 REPLIES 32

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
get the Ford f53 chassis manual
Look for the ignition wiring
Look for ignition#2 or aux wiring from the ignition switch
Trace that to the fuse panel and tap/connect to an output from the fuse panel that uses one of those wires
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

bakedalaskan1
Explorer
Explorer
Ford has a technical service bulletin that addresses this. It fixed this situation in my 2001 Winnebago. I replaces the vacuum reservoir with a larger unit. TSB 02-07-02 AC COMING OUT DEFROST.pdf

kmb1966
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
FIRE UP wrote:
kmb1966 wrote:
My dash a/c blows cold air, but at times when climbing hills/overpasses or traveling in a head wind, the air will decrease out of the vents, and blow out of the defrost vents. Upon slowing down, the air will return to the front vents. I've brought it to nearly every shop in town, with most scratching their heads after replacing lines and check valves and saying 'just live with it'. No. I don't want to live with it. I want it to blow out of the front vents. I've heard (on this forum) that a secondary vacuum pump could be added to solve this problem. My question is WHERE do I find this pump, and WHERE would it be installed? I'm clueless on where I would put this auxiliary pump for additional vacuum. :h
2000 Ford F53 Chassis


kmb1966,
What you're experiencing is age old for many Fords and even some Chevy equipped cars, trucks, RVs etc. There's some basic engine operating characteristics that you need to know, before you understand what EXACTLY is happening and why, with your problem. I'll give you the short version. I don't know if you've ever witnessed a vacuum gauge or not, when an engine is running. If not, the normal place for attaching the the vacuum gauge is someplace in the intake manifold.

When the engine is IDLING, there is HIGH VACUUM created. When you abrubtly step on the throttle, the vacuum decreases quickly. But, go back to idle and the vacuum returns. Now, engineers that create A/C systems in vehicles, know all this stuff and are prepared for it when operating conditions change. About 99.9999% of most dash A/C and heating controls in most of the last 30 or more years of vehicles and RVs etc. are VACUUM controlled.

That is, all the little doors, ducts, and more are all vacuum controlled with little vacuum biscuit type motors. When you select where you want your A/C to blow out, you in effect, are controlling vacuum to each of those little motors/doors.

Ok, enough on that. Now, as state when you're at idle or, very low throttle use, as in say, cruising on flat ground etc, you have fairly good vacuum being produced. So, all your controls for your A/C ducts and doors get all the vacuum they need for correct operation. But, as you start to climb a grade, guess what, you open the throttle more and that, as stated, decreases your vacuum production immensely.

For that reason, Ford and many other manufacturers created "STORAGE" containers for vacuum when those low vacuum production operations are encountered. And, through little check valves in all those little rubber lines, you now can draw vacuum from those storage containers, to keep your air conditioning flowing, to the ducts etc. that you've selected.

Once you level out and your throttle goes back to normal, you now begin to create more vacuum again.

So, with all that being said, what most likely has happened to you and your coach is, one or more of your vacuum storage containers, has developed a leak. I have seen this waaaaaay more than a few times. Now, sometimes, those vacuum storage containers look like something round, about the size of a soft ball. Sometimes, they look like a tomato Juice can, only painted black. Both of those have vacuum lines coming from them.

You can test those by simply removing the vacuum line and, put a short rubber line into the end and then blow into the little rubber line to create some pressure inside the can/container. Then, spray the can with some soapy water to see if there's bubbles emitting from any section of it. I've done just that test and revealed leaks many times. You can't see the leaks 'cause they are real sneaky. If you happen to find one or two leaks, fixing them is child's play. All you need to do is, get some Silicone from your local Home Depot, Lowes, ACE hardware or where ever and wipe things clean and paste some silicone over the leak area, DONE. Absolutely NO NEED TO PURCHASE A NEW ONE.

THE reason your A/C cold air reverts to the defrosters in a low or no vacuum situation, is due to mandated performance stats by the manufacturers. You see, if your system begins to fail, and you loose vacuum as you are, the system is designed to fail-safe to the defroster position. That they feel, is way more important to keep things clear, (as in the interior of a windshield) than it is to keep your little fingers cold from the regular dash ducts.

So, now that you have a bit of knowledge that what seems the "techs" you took it to DON'T HAVE, you can begin to check out your system for leaking vacuum storage containers and or hoses. I guarantee you'll find a leak.
Scott

P.S. With a correct fix like I explained above, there's no need for any "auxiliary pumps" to add to the confusion. Besides, I don't care how many pumps you add, you STILL HAVE A LEAK.


As a RV TECH(38 years and still working), you CANNOT fix this problem without a 12 volt pump. I know you think that his reservoir ball has a leak or there is a leak in the system, THAT CAN BEFIXED. Sorry, I used to fight that battle over 25 years ago. Replaced Reservoirs under warranty and actuators and even complete vacuum dash control hoses and dash controls. NOTHING fixes the inherent leaks in these aftermarket systems. It used to be you just had to live with it on hill climbs and heavy acceleration. But, once Diesel motorhomes become so common and the availability of cheaper vacuum pumps, there was a fix that would work. Even Class A diesels have the same leaks. You can have the system on and on a Diesel you will hear the 12 volt pump come on every 5 minutes or so as the vacuum leaks down. Doug

I'm gonna have to agree with Doug here, because I have already spent money on several mechanics in my area replacing check-valves, hoses, and reservoirs. It did improve the situation (in example, the vents now blow correctly when in MAX position) but the problem remains on climbing hills and head winds. Gonna try the 12 volt pump method. Just need to figure out a spot to plug in the 12 volts so that when the engine is running, it turns on.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
FIRE UP wrote:
kmb1966 wrote:
My dash a/c blows cold air, but at times when climbing hills/overpasses or traveling in a head wind, the air will decrease out of the vents, and blow out of the defrost vents. Upon slowing down, the air will return to the front vents. I've brought it to nearly every shop in town, with most scratching their heads after replacing lines and check valves and saying 'just live with it'. No. I don't want to live with it. I want it to blow out of the front vents. I've heard (on this forum) that a secondary vacuum pump could be added to solve this problem. My question is WHERE do I find this pump, and WHERE would it be installed? I'm clueless on where I would put this auxiliary pump for additional vacuum. :h
2000 Ford F53 Chassis


kmb1966,
What you're experiencing is age old for many Fords and even some Chevy equipped cars, trucks, RVs etc. There's some basic engine operating characteristics that you need to know, before you understand what EXACTLY is happening and why, with your problem. I'll give you the short version. I don't know if you've ever witnessed a vacuum gauge or not, when an engine is running. If not, the normal place for attaching the the vacuum gauge is someplace in the intake manifold.

When the engine is IDLING, there is HIGH VACUUM created. When you abrubtly step on the throttle, the vacuum decreases quickly. But, go back to idle and the vacuum returns. Now, engineers that create A/C systems in vehicles, know all this stuff and are prepared for it when operating conditions change. About 99.9999% of most dash A/C and heating controls in most of the last 30 or more years of vehicles and RVs etc. are VACUUM controlled.

That is, all the little doors, ducts, and more are all vacuum controlled with little vacuum biscuit type motors. When you select where you want your A/C to blow out, you in effect, are controlling vacuum to each of those little motors/doors.

Ok, enough on that. Now, as state when you're at idle or, very low throttle use, as in say, cruising on flat ground etc, you have fairly good vacuum being produced. So, all your controls for your A/C ducts and doors get all the vacuum they need for correct operation. But, as you start to climb a grade, guess what, you open the throttle more and that, as stated, decreases your vacuum production immensely.

For that reason, Ford and many other manufacturers created "STORAGE" containers for vacuum when those low vacuum production operations are encountered. And, through little check valves in all those little rubber lines, you now can draw vacuum from those storage containers, to keep your air conditioning flowing, to the ducts etc. that you've selected.

Once you level out and your throttle goes back to normal, you now begin to create more vacuum again.

So, with all that being said, what most likely has happened to you and your coach is, one or more of your vacuum storage containers, has developed a leak. I have seen this waaaaaay more than a few times. Now, sometimes, those vacuum storage containers look like something round, about the size of a soft ball. Sometimes, they look like a tomato Juice can, only painted black. Both of those have vacuum lines coming from them.

You can test those by simply removing the vacuum line and, put a short rubber line into the end and then blow into the little rubber line to create some pressure inside the can/container. Then, spray the can with some soapy water to see if there's bubbles emitting from any section of it. I've done just that test and revealed leaks many times. You can't see the leaks 'cause they are real sneaky. If you happen to find one or two leaks, fixing them is child's play. All you need to do is, get some Silicone from your local Home Depot, Lowes, ACE hardware or where ever and wipe things clean and paste some silicone over the leak area, DONE. Absolutely NO NEED TO PURCHASE A NEW ONE.

THE reason your A/C cold air reverts to the defrosters in a low or no vacuum situation, is due to mandated performance stats by the manufacturers. You see, if your system begins to fail, and you loose vacuum as you are, the system is designed to fail-safe to the defroster position. That they feel, is way more important to keep things clear, (as in the interior of a windshield) than it is to keep your little fingers cold from the regular dash ducts.

So, now that you have a bit of knowledge that what seems the "techs" you took it to DON'T HAVE, you can begin to check out your system for leaking vacuum storage containers and or hoses. I guarantee you'll find a leak.
Scott

P.S. With a correct fix like I explained above, there's no need for any "auxiliary pumps" to add to the confusion. Besides, I don't care how many pumps you add, you STILL HAVE A LEAK.


As a RV TECH(38 years and still working), you CANNOT fix this problem without a 12 volt pump. I know you think that his reservoir ball has a leak or there is a leak in the system, THAT CAN BEFIXED. Sorry, I used to fight that battle over 25 years ago. Replaced Reservoirs under warranty and actuators and even complete vacuum dash control hoses and dash controls. NOTHING fixes the inherent leaks in these aftermarket systems. It used to be you just had to live with it on hill climbs and heavy acceleration. But, once Diesel motorhomes become so common and the availability of cheaper vacuum pumps, there was a fix that would work. Even Class A diesels have the same leaks. You can have the system on and on a Diesel you will hear the 12 volt pump come on every 5 minutes or so as the vacuum leaks down. Doug

garyemunson
Explorer II
Explorer II
If it is Evans, here's their manual. Your coach being a 2000, my money is on a small leak in one of the actuators. A fixable problem once you chase it down. Just one of those problems that takes a lot time to find and cheap to fix once you do. Be so costly to have a shop fix it because of the diagnostic labor involved. It will make you appreciate what the A/C techs have to deal with.

http://www.evanstempcon.com/pdf/ElectricalSystems/Dash_All_Electric_HVAC_System_Service_Manual.pdf

garyemunson
Explorer II
Explorer II
This may also help... Scroll down to application guides and you will find a service manual. I think yours being older will likely have a Denso system rather than Evans.


http://densoheavyduty.com/resources/sales-literature

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
it should be noted 'gas' engines use manifold vacuum

diesel engines, use 12vdc vacuum pumps 'usually' mounted under the dash

and yes you can use a vacuum pump and cap the engine vacuum
but you still need to find and fix the leak
whether it is a bad vacuum line (hard plastic flexible tubing)
or the vacuum storage container
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
kmb1966 wrote:
My dash a/c blows cold air, but at times when climbing hills/overpasses or traveling in a head wind, the air will decrease out of the vents, and blow out of the defrost vents. Upon slowing down, the air will return to the front vents. I've brought it to nearly every shop in town, with most scratching their heads after replacing lines and check valves and saying 'just live with it'. No. I don't want to live with it. I want it to blow out of the front vents. I've heard (on this forum) that a secondary vacuum pump could be added to solve this problem. My question is WHERE do I find this pump, and WHERE would it be installed? I'm clueless on where I would put this auxiliary pump for additional vacuum. :h
2000 Ford F53 Chassis


kmb1966,
What you're experiencing is age old for many Fords and even some Chevy equipped cars, trucks, RVs etc. There's some basic engine operating characteristics that you need to know, before you understand what EXACTLY is happening and why, with your problem. I'll give you the short version. I don't know if you've ever witnessed a vacuum gauge or not, when an engine is running. If not, the normal place for attaching the the vacuum gauge is someplace in the intake manifold.

When the engine is IDLING, there is HIGH VACUUM created. When you abrubtly step on the throttle, the vacuum decreases quickly. But, go back to idle and the vacuum returns. Now, engineers that create A/C systems in vehicles, know all this stuff and are prepared for it when operating conditions change. About 99.9999% of most dash A/C and heating controls in most of the last 30 or more years of vehicles and RVs etc. are VACUUM controlled.

That is, all the little doors, ducts, and more are all vacuum controlled with little vacuum biscuit type motors. When you select where you want your A/C to blow out, you in effect, are controlling vacuum to each of those little motors/doors.

Ok, enough on that. Now, as state when you're at idle or, very low throttle use, as in say, cruising on flat ground etc, you have fairly good vacuum being produced. So, all your controls for your A/C ducts and doors get all the vacuum they need for correct operation. But, as you start to climb a grade, guess what, you open the throttle more and that, as stated, decreases your vacuum production immensely.

For that reason, Ford and many other manufacturers created "STORAGE" containers for vacuum when those low vacuum production operations are encountered. And, through little check valves in all those little rubber lines, you now can draw vacuum from those storage containers, to keep your air conditioning flowing, to the ducts etc. that you've selected.

Once you level out and your throttle goes back to normal, you now begin to create more vacuum again.

So, with all that being said, what most likely has happened to you and your coach is, one or more of your vacuum storage containers, has developed a leak. I have seen this waaaaaay more than a few times. Now, sometimes, those vacuum storage containers look like something round, about the size of a soft ball. Sometimes, they look like a tomato Juice can, only painted black. Both of those have vacuum lines coming from them.

You can test those by simply removing the vacuum line and, put a short rubber line into the end and then blow into the little rubber line to create some pressure inside the can/container. Then, spray the can with some soapy water to see if there's bubbles emitting from any section of it. I've done just that test and revealed leaks many times. You can't see the leaks 'cause they are real sneaky. If you happen to find one or two leaks, fixing them is child's play. All you need to do is, get some Silicone from your local Home Depot, Lowes, ACE hardware or where ever and wipe things clean and paste some silicone over the leak area, DONE. Absolutely NO NEED TO PURCHASE A NEW ONE.

THE reason your A/C cold air reverts to the defrosters in a low or no vacuum situation, is due to mandated performance stats by the manufacturers. You see, if your system begins to fail, and you loose vacuum as you are, the system is designed to fail-safe to the defroster position. That they feel, is way more important to keep things clear, (as in the interior of a windshield) than it is to keep your little fingers cold from the regular dash ducts.

So, now that you have a bit of knowledge that what seems the "techs" you took it to DON'T HAVE, you can begin to check out your system for leaking vacuum storage containers and or hoses. I guarantee you'll find a leak.
Scott

P.S. With a correct fix like I explained above, there's no need for any "auxiliary pumps" to add to the confusion. Besides, I don't care how many pumps you add, you STILL HAVE A LEAK.
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

kmb1966
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
ALL Class A motorhomes have aftermarket Dash AC systems. They have inherent Vacuum leaks. Always have and impossible to fix. The actuators are the culprits as they are not 100% leak free. When you go to zero Vacuum on full throttle, the vacuum reservoir runs out of vacuum. The default is then to go to defrost. As the other poster showed, get the Ford 12 volt vacuum pump. It will mount on the firewall up front by the rest of the controls from the outside. You will see a round black ball with 2 small hoses and that is your vacuum reservoir. The larger hose is connected to the engine manifold vacuum. THAT hose you remove from the reservoir and plug. The vacuum hose from your new 12 volt pump connects to that vacuum reservoir ball. Connect ground and 12 volts to your ignition side of the chassis and your problem is fixed. This is the same system Diesel Motorhomes use. Doug




at the very bottom of this link when you click will be a pic of the most common Pump and reservoir.

http://www.evanstempcon.com/service_parts.php


****AWESOME ****
THANK YOU!!!!
THIS MIGHT BE A PROJECT I CAN DO MYSELF! THANKS AGAIN!

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
ALL Class A motorhomes have aftermarket Dash AC systems. They have inherent Vacuum leaks. Always have and impossible to fix. The actuators are the culprits as they are not 100% leak free. When you go to zero Vacuum on full throttle, the vacuum reservoir runs out of vacuum. The default is then to go to defrost. As the other poster showed, get the Ford 12 volt vacuum pump. It will mount on the firewall up front by the rest of the controls from the outside. You will see a round black ball with 2 small hoses and that is your vacuum reservoir. The larger hose is connected to the engine manifold vacuum. THAT hose you remove from the reservoir and plug. The vacuum hose from your new 12 volt pump connects to that vacuum reservoir ball. Connect ground and 12 volts to your ignition side of the chassis and your problem is fixed. This is the same system Diesel Motorhomes use. Doug

at the very bottom of this link when you click will be a pic of the most common Pump and reservoir.

http://www.evanstempcon.com/service_parts.php

imgoin4it
Explorer
Explorer
If you have no leaks you can also install an additional canister in the same line as the original.
Howard,Connie,& Bella,
One spoiled schnauzer
2007 Newmar KSDP
4dr Jeep Wrangler

Home_Skillet
Explorer II
Explorer II
The vacuum reservoir/check valve could be leaking also.
2005 Gulf Stream Conquest 31ft
BigFoot Levelers,TST in tire TPMS,Bilstein Shocks,Trans temp guage,Lowrace iWAY

K_Charles
Explorer
Explorer
Fix the leak in the vacuum line. The leak could be in the controller or an actuator, it doesn't have to be in a line.

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
This one should get the job done.

Ford Vacuum Pump
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

akrv
Explorer
Explorer
Loss of engine vacuum which is normal when the engine is under heavy load. I had the same problem on a class c 2004 chassis. When I had a leak the in the heating system it would only blow air out defroster. I had a broken vac line in the engine compartment that a pack rat chewed on.
2005 Coachmen Concord 275DS
2004 Malibu Maxx LT