Dutch Star lights don't work

[Mile-High-Endur]

Friend was leaving this morning when he discovered the running, fog, dash and clearance lights didn't work. Signals, headlights, brake lights work. We aren't electrical guys and need help. Thanks.

Jeff

[Mile-High-Endur]

Thanks for the tips. He decided to drive it the 1300 miles home to North Dakota and let the dealer do it. Thanks again.

Jeff

[CA_Traveler]

When checking with a voltmeter:
1. Turn on the lights as this prevents false readings due to high resistance opens.
2. Connect the voltmeter to a frame ground and NOT some ground wire.

A 12V test light is also a good tool for this kind of problem, perhaps better since a light is usually a more visible indication of 12V or not.

One easy check is one of the light bulbs. If you have 12V on both sides of the bulb then then you have a open ground. Otherwise you'll need to find the faulty component which includes fuse, CB, switch, wire or connector. A wiring diagram, fuse or relay location would be very helpful.

[rgatijnet1]

I would be surprised if all of those different light circuits went through the same single relay. I would look at the 12 volt source of power that feeds the location where all of those relays are located. Some 12 volt circuits have a large inline fuse to protect the batteries.

[C-Leigh_Racing]

If it is like the Dutch Star some friend of ours had, you raise up the hood in front & theres a board with a hord of 12V relays.
They where having all sorts of 12V electical problems & found out those relays dont last very long & need to be replaced.
We had several times when stopped, the engine wouldnt start, made no sound at all, replace the relay & everything was fine & we were on our way.

You need a diagram of the 12V electrical & take it to somebody knows how to read it & they can sort out the relay causing the problems.
I think the Dutch Star owners, were getting the new relays from Radio Shack or either from Freight Liner.
Neil

[Mile-High-Endur]

It's a 2007 Spartan chassis diesel pusher. Thanks.

Jeff

[randallb]

Ignition switch issues were not unknown on the Workhorse chassis. If I remember correctly there is more than one power out from the switch. It may also be the headlight switch itself. Most manufacturers split the primary lights and secondary lights at the switch. Since switches usually carry some heavy loads the power out of either the ignition or light switch may appear to be OK when checked with a volt meter. Volt meters place little or no load on a switch and this lack of load normally allows enough current to flow.
Randy

[sailor_lou]

Since you have a fair amount of electrical demand with all those lights, there is most likely a relay (or two) controlling the loads. I will assume you've checked fuses so I would start by looking for a bad or disconnected relay. If you are not familiar with relays, they typically look like small black boxes and often are plugged into a socket on the fuse panel. You can also find them mounted on a panel with a plug-in connector on the bottom.

If you provide the coach and chassis info you may get a better response from someone with a similar rig. Good luck.

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy

[Mile-High-Endur]

It's still not fixed. Really could use ideas. There most be a breaker or ground that we are missing. We've checked electrical in the front driver side compartment and back by the batteries. Are there more we are missing? Thanks again.

Jeff