Electrical system has gotten hot

[rgnprof]

I have signs of heat in my wiring - bubbling on a wire or two and the grounding bar has broken away from the black plastic insulating (??) pad with clear signs that the pad has melted in places as well.

Can I run electrical stuff tonight with out the bar being firmly attached to the insulating pad?

I have replaced all the circuit breakers...and cleaned up stuff as best I could.

This is a 30A system - older motorhome (1993 Ford E350 chassis).

Thanks,
ryan

[CA_Traveler]

Good job!

[rgnprof]

SUCCESS! I think...knock on wood etc.

I fashioned an insulator plate out of a blue plastic outlet box, heavy duty stuff. Used JB Weld for plastics to metal and glued the bar to the plastic. Also got a couple of screws in it so it isn't going anywhere. Replaced one of the heavy 10 gauge wires that I think was causing all the problems, cleaned off all the rest and trimmed them back some. Everything is now running fine.

Thanks for all the help!
ryan

[rgnprof]

Will any kind of plastic work as an insulator? I found a gray plastic blank cover at Home Depot...just trying to fabricate something...

[CA_Traveler]

Do a trial test of JB Weld. Or flat head bolt the bar to plastic and then glue a larger piece on the bottom and secure that piece to the box. Or use a thick piece of plastic with recessed and sealed bolt holes.

Tap Plastic etc should have what you need.

[rgnprof]

I am concerned - now that you mentioned it - about the movement. Also, I am going to have to cut this bar down some - with the feet it's to long.

If I was going to just try and use a plate, any recommendations as to the material to use? This black piece to me feels like hard plastic... plus, I'm going to have to figure out a way to securely attach the bar to the plastic??

[CA_Traveler]

Yes. It does need to hold up to vibrating and bouncing down the road which is not a home environment factor.

[rgnprof]

Will plastic “feet” work, instead of a plate? I’ll post a pic in a bit...

They’re little pedestals that attach to the end of the new bar. Got it at Locke Electrical

[sgip2000]

The plastic insulator is part of the converter. It will be difficult finding a new bar that is insulated. You may have to fabricate something.

[CA_Traveler]

The neutral bus is insulated from the case and the ground bus is not. Try HD etc including ordering or electrical supply house.

[rgnprof]

The old bus bar was on top of a black plastic insulator so it was not in contact with the metal case. Do I need another plastic plate?

[CA_Traveler]

The ground bus is bonded to the panel case. And somewhere the ground is bonded to the rig frame.

When all repairs are completed I recommend that you plug into a GFCI and check that none of the electrical equipment trips the GFCI. This establishes that you don't have a ground fault - ie amps leaking to ground.

[rgnprof]

Guys - thanks so much for the advice. I really appreciate it.

I am going to try and find a new ground bar today - does it need to be insulated as well? Looking online at Home Depot and Lowes, I've had some trouble locating one that has an insulator like mine does.

[j-d]

DrewE wrote:
I would avoid using the 120 volt RV system until the neutral bus bar is replaced and the wiring cleaned up properly. Run an extension cord into the RV and plug your fan into that directly.

Most likely the root cause was a loose, and so high resistance, connection to the bus bar. It is a good idea to check that everything is properly snug every now and again; things can tend to vibrate loose over time. It is good you caught it before anything more serious happened.

I always watch for Drew's replies on stuff like this. Good electrician and thoughtful guy.

Very possible that a connection on that neutral bus wasn't tight. Then got hot, toasted the screw, now you can't tighten the screw even if you try to.

Good job with the pix, Ryan!

[eHoefler]

Miss wire 30 amp recepticle, possibly wired 220