House Battery Charging/MagneTek Model 6332 Power Converter

[RoadHogg]

When we picked up our 1997 GWV Class B in early October, we drove home over the next week or so and although the camper is in near perfect condition, we noticed that the house battery doesn't seem to charge properly...or maybe just doesn't hold a charge. During our trip home it seemed that the house battery would easily go dead as we travelled and would then charge up at night when we plugged into shore power. (I really would like to add a second house battery...having too much battery power can't be a bad thing)

Recently I changed out the chassis battery, the PO had installed a n Interstate HD24-DP deep cycle 505 MCA battery under the hood and IMO, that's an incorrect application for that battery. The engine always started well but we do intend to drive this van all winter and we need a very strong battery in order to handle cold starts without issue.

During my chassis battery change over, I decided to do some testing of the house battery and related charging system. I found that the isolator device under the hood seems to be operating properly. The isolator does not connect the chassis and house batteries together until the engine's alternator is charging. I confirmed that the isolator disconnects the house battery from the engine battery when the engine is stopped and then connects the two when the engine is started...thus allowing the charging of the house battery.

I took the house battery out and gave it a full charge with a good quality automatic charger then I gave it a load test. This battery is an Interstate SRM-27 deep cycle battery rated at 750 MCA. My load test showed that the battery is down a little on CA but not too bad...about 500 Amps.

So, this is all fine, I will replace that house battery some time but there is some life left in it...for the way we camp...usually plugged into at least a 15A supply overnight.

My concern at this point is, the house charger. I didn't test the charger, I'm not sure how in fact. I'd like to be confident that the house charger is both charging up to full potential and that it stops charging when the battery is full.

The house charger is a MagneTek 32 Amp "Power Converter" Series 6300 A Model Number 6332.

Any tips on how to best test the power converter charging system?

[steveh27]

My 1997 Xplorer 230XL had the same crappy Magnetek converter. In 2012 I replaced it with the PD4635 from Best Converter. I did not go with the bigger PD's due to having 8 ga wiring with 40 amp breakers. It is working much better than the Magnetek. At the same time I added a Trimetric RV battery meter which provides great info especially when off the grid, and direct wired from the battery my small inverter running a Dish system & TV. I should have done all this much earlier.

[BillJ999]

A good starting point would be to check the house battery voltage with the charger off. With no charge and no load for a few hours, it will probably be around 12.6V. Now, turn on the charger and see what happens. You should hear the charger hum and the voltage should rise to about 13.8v eventually. If this happens, the battery should charge OK.

William
Roadtrek 200 Popular
Sherbrooke, Quebec

[Neverhappy]

Congrats on your GWV I miss mine .
I had same symptoms with the charging system of my Chinook..It was the AGM battery not suited for a magnatek , now with 2 x 100 amps lead batteries all is ok.

[loving_retireme]

I would recommend that you replace your Magnetek converter which results in "battery boil off" also called by some as a dump charger with a Progressive Dynamics PD9200 series 3-stage "smart charger." A PD9260 (60amp) model can be had for about $140. That is what I did and I am glad to be rid of the Magnetek.

[Gene_in_NE]

ksg5000 wrote:
It's likely that's the original converter sold with the rig. As I recall they produce a constant 13.6 volts and are often referred to as "batter eaters" because they ten to boil off the battery water. Many people spend $150 and upgrade to something like http://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD9245CV-Converter-Charge/dp/B000GANZZ6. Easy install with lots of "how to" on the web.

At any rate - you can test your existing converter by either measuring the voltage at the converter (best way) or measure it at the battery when the rig is connected to shore power ... should read around 13.6.

Great advice above. I am presuming that you checked the battery acid level. It should be about 1/4" above the plates. 🙂

[ksg5000]

It's likely that's the original converter sold with the rig. As I recall they produce a constant 13.6 volts and are often referred to as "batter eaters" because they ten to boil off the battery water. Many people spend $150 and upgrade to something like http://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD9245CV-Converter-Charge/dp/B000GANZZ6. Easy install with lots of "how to" on the web.

At any rate - you can test your existing converter by either measuring the voltage at the converter (best way) or measure it at the battery when the rig is connected to shore power ... should read around 13.6.