How is the Ford (Class A) chassis supposed to handle?

[TriumphGuy]

Hi all,
I see similar topics going on right now but don't want to hijack so here goes...
We switched our GS magazine "option" to MH magazine (from Trailer Life) in anticipation of going to a MH in the next year. I've since seen two issues where they review a MH on the Ford chassis and complain how "bad" it is.
I just want to know how bad "bad" is ... my frame of reference is my TV in my sig (2000 F250 7.3 towing a 35' 5er). My truck ain't exactly a handling machine, and the steering is kinda numb - but it generally goes straight and stays straight.
I'm fairly picky when it comes to my cars - wanting direct feedback and excellent handling through twisty roads, but I don't expect that out of a heavy duty vehicle. I expect my truck to handle like a truck but be fairly stable and predictable. I also expect the same out of a MH ... reasonable expectation? I've read about the "cheap handling fix" that many do - some add sumo springs ... etc. I can handle some level of aftermarket modding, I do it to all my other vehicles 🙂
Most of the MH we're looking at have the Ford v10, some have the Workhorse and a couple odd ones are on the FRED chassis.

thanks!

[bob_nestor]

I had a brand new Class B built on a 2005 E350 chassis. The steering was like trying to play a video game, there was no road feel and no feedback of any kind. That RV was totally destroyed by an 18-wheeler and was replaced by a brand new one also built on a 2005 E350 chassis. It steered and drove normal - there was a good road feel and great feedback.

I spoke with an engineer who used to work for Ford and he told me the system was basically a drive by wire system and the lack of road feel or feedback could be easily fixed with a software update or tweak at a Ford dealership. Never bothered to check that out because the replacement unit drove perfectly fine.

[Son_of_Norway]

I'll just add an opinion for when you are test-driving motor homes. I believe that a well-engineered and properly-maintained motor home should essentially handle and steer like a comfortable car. Even my HR still does, and you should expect that when you move into a class A.

Miles

[Golden_HVAC]

With my 75 F-350 supercab, I needed to install a shock absorber on the steering rod, and that made handling much better. Still it had a lot of turnig the steering wheel before 'compliance'. As my brother puts it. Say you can turn the steering wheel 1/4" before it responds, and can turn it back 1/4" before it turns the other direction, it is 1/4" before 'compliance'.

My 75 F-350 had about 1" of steering wheel movement before compliance. My 97 Bounder has about 1/4". It is the older 460" engine, and 16" rims. You will be looking at 98+ model years with 19.5" rims and V10 engine, much better as far as GVWR and compliance too. Better brakes as well.

Try to avoid the 98 - 2003 models. THey only have three threads into the aluminum heads. If the spark plugs are ever removed (at 100,000 miles usually) and put back in by the owner, the can overtighten them. It only takes something like 37 inch pounds of torque. By 2003, they started making the heads with more threads in them, and the problem went away.

Fred.