How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[passandprint]

Griff in Fairbanks - Thanks for the response that's very helpful I will grab poly seal to throw in there.

[regis101]

Yep yep. I'm in.

[Leeann]

Put 'em up on Photobucket, flickr or the like, then copy the link next to BBcode; it'll have IMG tags surrounding it in brackets.

Paste that here and we'll see the pics.

[regis101]

Try this link. Password, 73kodiak

http://s187.photobucket.com/user/regis101/slideshow/1973%20Kodiak%20RV

[Leeann]

Welcome! Nice rig to start with 😉

[regis101]

New guy in the campground.

Recently picked up a '73 Kodiak 20' Class C, Dodge B300, 360 cu in. No A/C, yet

Needs a 'lil love but has good bones. Clean and dry. Has had an easy life out here in Nor Cal. Nice floor plan for a 20'r.

The PO is letting me keep it there for a month or so to sort out some drivability stuff. Nothing complicated. It's been off the road since '08. Throwing some new parts at it, basic tune up, battery, etc. Needs brake work also. Parts are cheap. I'm not worried about the cost to save this piece of vintage iron. This one is worth it. I'll post some pic's later.

The wife and kids don't know yet. I want to be able to drive 'er home, confidently, first.
Mid July will be the maiden voyage of a new chapter of our lives.

[Ballenxj]

Leeann wrote:
Hey!

I haven't heard anything in quite a while. And I have tried...

Hopefully they are just busy traveling?

[eyeteeth]

Well... that's kinda a drag. 😞

[Leeann]

Hey!

I haven't heard anything in quite a while. And I have tried...

[eyeteeth]

It's been a long time... had some time this afternoon, so I thought I'd pop in and catch up. Do a little light reading.

Hate to ask... but I never saw a resolution... Trish?

Also, WhiteKnight seems to have become a recluse as well.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

--> passandprint

Looks like you're a victim of what's incorrectly called "dry rot." It's an incorrect term because the organisms that cause rot require some moisture.

The problem is most motorhome manufacturers didn't put any kind of vapor retarder between the interior paneling and insulation/framing. Water vapor from cooking and people (and animals) breathing migrates though the paneling and condenses when it hits the cold(er) exterior aluminum. The fact that the aluminum is an excellent vapor retarder makes it worse, trapping the condensed vapor and causing it to saturate the wood framing. The result is mildew, mold, and rot.

Some people have done what you're looking at and have posted pictures elsewhere on the web. Some (like me) rip it all the way to the chassis and build a completely new coach. (I'm still restoring and upgrading the chassis so the only pictures I have are of tearing the old coach apart.)

At a minimum, I'd put a poly vapor retarder between the paneling and framing (on the interior side of the wall, ceiling and floor). You can use what builders call "black death" to adhere and seal the vapor retarder. (Tremco is the trade name ... any good lumber yard should have it.)

Also, once you're finished, use a dehumidifier when storing it and keep the windows open just a bit at all times.

[passandprint]

Hi everyone, came across this thread when I was first looking at rv's. Wound up buying a 74' Dodge Travelcraft Ranger a few months ago. 60k original miles needs some engine work as well as some repairs inside.

Finally got in for some demo work. Wound up having a bit more leak damage in the back end than expected but had plans to re-do that area anyways. It looks like most of the cross beams are being used as nailers for the walls rather than a major support. Was wondering if anyone has replaced these before, and what the best way of going about it would be?

Thanks in advance!

[rehoppe]

If this is a water drainage problem. Get some water resistant wheel covers for the fronts. They do 2 things. Keeps the water off the brakes and the sun off the tires.

Both Good things.

[rehoppe]

You MAY not need parts. Some of the MHs drain water from the 'house' onto the front wheels, tires, brakes, and bearings, causing the brakes to stick.

If the parts are in good shape.... regrease the bearings(always), clean up the brake cylinders and pads,,, and reassemble. Probably should replace the 'seals', no matter what. (Oiled/greased brake pads/shoes do NOT work well.)

Make dang sure you flush the brake lines and inspect for 'internal' hose expansion. Sometimes the old hoses have swollen to the point of 'plugged'.

[Ballenxj]

I don't know if it will help but Rock Auto has a lot of older Dodge parts. You may have to do a little research to cross reference them, but they have Dodge parts dating all the way back to 1914. Yeah, I was surprised when I saw that too.
Rock Auto Parts.