How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[RvFNG76]

my440 wrote:

RvFNG76 wrote:
Ok stupid question doing rear brakes on the old girl and replacing wheel cylinders which model do I use to find the parts???

Hi looking at your profile I would say at your parts counter request as 1976 Dodge B300
Not sure if thats the answer your looking for sorry if not.
I have a 1977 Dodge B300, I found all brake parts readily accessible on order.
By the way awesome rig!

thank you I figured as much. She's been allot of fun so far.

[my440]

Jennifer Koper wrote:
Hi All, i'm new here from Lose Angeles. I expect this journey will be grate and will spend quality time with all of you.

I am as well ready to serve you guyz to extended my help if its remain within my range.

Hi Jennifer!!

[my440]

RvFNG76 wrote:
Ok stupid question doing rear brakes on the old girl and replacing wheel cylinders which model do I use to find the parts???

Hi looking at your profile I would say at your parts counter request as 1976 Dodge B300
Not sure if thats the answer your looking for sorry if not.
I have a 1977 Dodge B300, I found all brake parts readily accessible on order.
By the way awesome rig!

[Jennifer_Koper]

Hi All, i'm new here from Lose Angeles. I expect this journey will be grate and will spend quality time with all of you.

I am as well ready to serve you guyz to extended my help if its remain within my range.

[RvFNG76]

Ok stupid question doing rear brakes on the old girl and replacing wheel cylinders which model do I use to find the parts???

[Ballenxj]

Leeann wrote:

vjswhippet wrote:
does a Dodge Sprinter count ?

Why not? We don't discriminate 😉

If it has a van nose that says Dodge, I'd say so. 🙂

[Leeann]

vjswhippet wrote:
does a Dodge Sprinter count ?

Why not? We don't discriminate 😉

[Griff_in_Fairba]

vjswhippet wrote:
does a Dodge Sprinter count ?

yes

[vjswhippet]

does a Dodge Sprinter count ?

[my440]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

my440 wrote:
Hi hoping everyone is doing ok.
Thought I should come by because I'm kindof stumped on whats going on with my 1977 Dodge B300 again.
Been having a brake pedal not returning problem for awhile and just now got to addressing the situation. Pulling back the pedal with my foot released the brakes no problem.
Today I installed a new master cylinder and brake booster and still brake pedal not returning.
I greased all the pedal linkage at an earlier date but never was the problem.
The front calipers are new as well as the rear drums with the whole brake kit was installed last year.
I have not bled the brakes yet as I run out of time and have not started it because battery was dead and had no cables.
So my question at this point is would not bleeding the brakes cause a non returning peddle? I'm doubting it but at a loss as to why no peddle is not returning still. I adjusted the booster rod to what I think is good several times but not in possession of the proper measuring device, I simply backed of the rod just a bit from where it contacted the master cylinder
Thanks

When was the last time the brake system was expertly flushed, refilled, and re-bled? (I'm guessing never ... and they should be flushed at least every 10 years, preferably every 5 years.)

Hi Griff
The system was flushed last fall and again today and bled after the install of new booster and master cylinder. All seems good now. Thanks

[StingrayL82]

Ballenxj wrote:
PS, just did an exhaustive research on the web pertaining to the 46re trans. Some say the Dodge transmissions are a **** shoot, but a lot of that depends on maintenance, and in particular, the fluid you use.
Here's a quote I pulled from one of those websites.....
I'm glad my transmission guy was adamant about using the correct fluid. 🙂

I only run ATF+4 in my 727. The guy who rebuilt it for me said that, short of finding Dexron II that isn’t degraded from age, no other ATF will work well. I asked him about Ford Type F and his response was, “It’s good for a few passes down the track.”

[Ballenxj]

PS, just did an exhaustive research on the web pertaining to the 46re trans. Some say the Dodge transmissions are a **** shoot, but a lot of that depends on maintenance, and in particular, the fluid you use.
Here's a quote I pulled from one of those websites.

Depends on maintenance really...it's particular to the fluid you use. Many companies use unique fluids (honda, nissan, ford, toyota...) as does the 46re (requires minimum ATF+3 or +4). Many shops, even some dealers, will simply uses a less expensive universal fluid such as dexron, and simply use a bottle of additives to bring it up to the specs of ATF+4...this usually doesn't work though.

Basically what happens is this...use a fluid that's not recommended, and the transmission clutches and bands slips a little, for which the computer tries to compensate for...this leads to increased wear, more slippage, and greater tightening. In the old "ultra-drive" days (chryslers first computer controlled transmission), failure could occur within 30 miles of the fluid change....

Changing it back can help...when the wrong fluid was used in the old days, the computer had to be reflashed...not sure that this is the case now.

They used to blame the failures on a number of things...primarily not enough fluid circulation in O/D, particularly to the O/D unit itself (there were "fixes", but this wasn't the case), and a check-ball within the trans cooler line that tended to gunk up...turns out, they were misreading the cause of the failures...it was the fluid.

Basically, if you look up an R/T and it's got a good working trans then it should be fine...when you have it serviced, make sure actual ATF+4 is used when flushing the trans.

I'm glad my transmission guy was adamant about using the correct fluid. 🙂

[Ballenxj]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

Ballenxj wrote:

StingrayL82 wrote:

Ballenxj wrote:

StingrayL82 wrote:

It’s possible but I’m not the only one who has had that problem with the 46RE

Griff, if I keep the OD turned off (except on freeways), can I expect better longevity then?
I just had the trans fluid and filter changed before it turned 70k. The guys in the transmission shop said it looked like new inside.
Yikes. 😞

It should look new. If it's cloudy, brown, or smells slightly burnt, you may already have problems.

Running empty on the highway is okay. You don't want it constantly in and out of overdrive. If that starts happening, turn off overdrive. <-------->

Driving style matters too. Hard on the throttle causes OD thrashing.

I already knew about turning the OD off when either loaded, or in hilly country, but thanks for the warnings. Reminders are always good, especially at my age. 😉
FWIW, My friends 98 Dodge has (I think) the same transmission as mine, with around 176 k on the clock.I'll have to ask him, but I think he's been trouble free?

[Griff_in_Fairba]

my440 wrote:
Hi hoping everyone is doing ok.
Thought I should come by because I'm kindof stumped on whats going on with my 1977 Dodge B300 again.
Been having a brake pedal not returning problem for awhile and just now got to addressing the situation. Pulling back the pedal with my foot released the brakes no problem.
Today I installed a new master cylinder and brake booster and still brake pedal not returning.
I greased all the pedal linkage at an earlier date but never was the problem.
The front calipers are new as well as the rear drums with the whole brake kit was installed last year.
I have not bled the brakes yet as I run out of time and have not started it because battery was dead and had no cables.
So my question at this point is would not bleeding the brakes cause a non returning peddle? I'm doubting it but at a loss as to why no peddle is not returning still. I adjusted the booster rod to what I think is good several times but not in possession of the proper measuring device, I simply backed of the rod just a bit from where it contacted the master cylinder
Thanks

When was the last time the brake system was expertly flushed, refilled, and re-bled? (I'm guessing never ... and they should be flushed at least every 10 years, preferably every 5 years.)

[my440]

Hi hoping everyone is doing ok.
Thought I should come by because I'm kindof stumped on whats going on with my 1977 Dodge B300 again.
Been having a brake pedal not returning problem for awhile and just now got to addressing the situation. Pulling back the pedal with my foot released the brakes no problem.
Today I installed a new master cylinder and brake booster and still brake pedal not returning.
I greased all the pedal linkage at an earlier date but never was the problem.
The front calipers are new as well as the rear drums with the whole brake kit was installed last year.
I have not bled the brakes yet as I run out of time and have not started it because battery was dead and had no cables.
So my question at this point is would not bleeding the brakes cause a non returning peddle? I'm doubting it but at a loss as to why no peddle is not returning still. I adjusted the booster rod to what I think is good several times but not in possession of the proper measuring device, I simply backed of the rod just a bit from where it contacted the master cylinder
Thanks