HWH 325 solenoid fuse blew

[K_Charles]

Solenoid valve blew the 15 amp fuse in the control box and I replaced it. It worked a few times and blew again. If you flip the override the cylinder comes up faster then the time spec (faster then two other cylinders). The question is can I buy just the solenoid if yes where, or do I have to get the valve complete, stem and solenoid together?

[K_Charles]

OP here. I got the solenoid at a local Tiffin dealer for about $100 less then HWH suggested retail. The had it is stock, it works and I'm happy.

[Gypsy1]

K Charles wrote:
OP here. I checked the resistance in the coil and it is bad. I am just looking for a place to buy the coil alone. HWH sells the coil and stem in one piece and is very pricey. There are many types where I use to work but not one for this stem.

I recently had a fuse blow and burn up the inline fuse housing at the pump. Quite accidentally I saw a flash at the motor terminal when current applied. The terminal was extermly hot, and more importantly loose and corroded. This caused heat, which caused resistance and blew the fuse. Cleaned to terminal at the motor, replaced the fuse with circuit breaker and solved the problem.

[dougrainer]

tderonne wrote:
They fail quite often. OP's case sounds like the hundreds of cases I've read about over the years, probably needs a new solenoid. There is no off the shelf fix from a hydraulic shop or parts supplier. New or rebuilt part needs to come from HWH. As for failing when left in retract mode, it's HWH that sets how long they stay on, just doing that shouldn't cause them to fail, but it appears that it does. Reading all the cases of folks having to replace them, I have been very careful over the years I've had mine to never leave them on too long, and still have had failures.

You don't follow what I stated. I stated if left in retract mode and 1 of the down lights stays ON, the system will stay in retract mode until you shut the system off. The timer that HWH has is started AFTER the last down light goes out. About 5 to 6 minutes. When you put a 325 system in STORE after you start the chassis engine(which is required on the 325 system), the system is in hibernation mode. IF one of the 4 jacks extends slightly from road heat, then the system awakens and opens the solenoid to allow the jack to retract and this happens without you even knowing it, then it shuts off the solenoids and goes back to hibernation mode. Doug

[enblethen]

OP:
You need to contact HWH and ask for their assistance.

[tderonne]

They fail quite often. OP's case sounds like the hundreds of cases I've read about over the years, probably needs a new solenoid. There is no off the shelf fix from a hydraulic shop or parts supplier. New or rebuilt part needs to come from HWH. As for failing when left in retract mode, it's HWH that sets how long they stay on, just doing that shouldn't cause them to fail, but it appears that it does. Reading all the cases of folks having to replace them, I have been very careful over the years I've had mine to never leave them on too long, and still have had failures.

[K_Charles]

Yes RAP90729 is the number I need. We don't have one where I worked and they have several. I did look in the Grainger catalog without any luck.

[dougrainer]

tderonne wrote:
Pretty sure you need a RAP90729 solenoid. They are unique to HWH, and fail quite often.

You remind me of the guy that shoots random holes in a wall and then paints a bulls eye around the closest clusters and proclaims what a great marksman he is:B I did not state they do not fail, I stated they RARELY fail. There are MILLIONS of those solenoids out in service and they rarely fail. The most common failure is they leak internally and the jack creeps up. Not a dead short. Also, if you want to destroy a Solenoid(cause a dead short), just leave the system in store and drive(which LOTS of RV'ers do) when a jack fails to fully retract or the down system fails and the Red light stays on. After about 30 minutes you can have all 4 solenoids burn up and require all 4 to be replaced. Doug

PS, your links are from a period of almost 8 to 10 years.

[enblethen]

Odd that most of the rigs in tderonne links are Winnebagos.

[tderonne]

I've replaced three myself.

Heard on many others being replaced.
Examples here
Examples at another website

[dougrainer]

tderonne wrote:
Pretty sure you need a RAP90729 solenoid. They are unique to HWH, and fail quite often.

How do you know they fail quite often? I WORK on Motorhomes and have for 38 years and I RARELY replace a solenoid for the jacks, that has failed. IOW, they do NOT fail quite often. Doug

[tderonne]

Pretty sure you need a RAP90729 solenoid. They are unique to HWH, and fail quite often.

[enblethen]

Did you check with local hydraulic shops or Graingers?

[K_Charles]

OP again, I replaced the fuse not the coil. The four coils for the jacks all ohm about the same but this one has some resistance to ground. I don't know how that can be but it is. I suspect the stem leaked oil into the coil. Anyway, do I need to spend big bucks for HWH Oar is there an aftermarket. Who ever made it for HWH left there name off.

[dougrainer]

HWH jack solenoids rarely short out. To have 2 that have a short is way out there. The usual reason a HWH solenoid would have a short is, they are momentary solenoids, not supposed to have 12 volt power longer than 10 to 15 minutes max. What usually causes LONGER than 10 minute activation times is when either a jack fails to fully retract and the light stays ON and the system stays in STORE mode as long as the Ignition key is on, or the jack down light system has a fault and the jacks are retracted but the system stays in full store mode when the Ignition key is on. Doug