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Leak in hydraulic line for rear jack

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
I went to jack up the rear tires today and my hydraulic line sprung a leak where it rubbed against undercarriage. I have the HWH 200 series system and have a Hydraulic diagram from their web site but can't determine how the lines are routed. From the diagram it looks like there are two lines attached to the pump one for pressure and one for return. It looks like there is some sort of junction that feeds the RH and LH jacks both front and rear. I just can't find where these lines attach. Has anyone replaced one of the rear lines and know where to find this junction?
.
38 REPLIES 38

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
Think you may be missing a digit.

Then price from HWH before making a decision.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
wolfe10 wrote:
Price on the whole hose is WAY out of line. Check with HWH for parts price. PN should be on both ends of the hose.
. Thanks Wolf, I was able to find and read the PN on the other end of the line where it attaches to the joy stick manifold. It is AP 2464, not sure where the R came from in Budโ€™s chart.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Gjac wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
Gjac wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
HWH pumps run at 2900 to 3200 PSI. You do NOT have to replace the complete line. IF the Shop has a tool(I do), you can install the metal flare ends on the end of the bad hose in front of the damaged area(cutting out the hose from the jack to the damaged spot) and then just make a short hose to go from the original to that Jack. Saves time and money. Doug
I called a Hydraulic shop yesterday and asked about adding a splice fitting where the line was chaffed through by the frame, and what they described to me was a junction fitting that screwed into the cut line with a retaining nut to secure it. They said it works well with Parker hoses. It was about $30 for the fitting and about $200 for the complete line. They could not install it on the MH so the line would have to be removed anyways. Is this what you are describing? Is there a name for this fitting I can give them?


No, I have a portable Hydraulic Swagging tool I purchased from HWH 25 years ago. The Metal ends are installed exactly like HWH installs them. HWH no longer sells that tool. There is nothing wrong with cutting out the bad spot and swagging a new fitting on the old hose and making a new hose for the length from the Jack to the bad area. Your other hoses are the same age as the bad one. You going to replace those also? If you follow the thread about NOT using the good part of the old hose. If it was a front Jack, I would replace the complete hose from the jack to the Joystick. The Swagging tool allows me to make HWH hoses to whatever length I need. Doug

This is the tool
http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr751000.pdf
That is a nice tool, it looks like you can use it without removing the whole hose, is that true?


Yes, That is the whole purpose of the tool. I use HWH fittings and hose. I can make 1/4 and 3/8 hoses. Doug

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
Price on the whole hose is WAY out of line. Check with HWH for parts price. PN should be on both ends of the hose.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
dougrainer wrote:
Gjac wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
HWH pumps run at 2900 to 3200 PSI. You do NOT have to replace the complete line. IF the Shop has a tool(I do), you can install the metal flare ends on the end of the bad hose in front of the damaged area(cutting out the hose from the jack to the damaged spot) and then just make a short hose to go from the original to that Jack. Saves time and money. Doug
I called a Hydraulic shop yesterday and asked about adding a splice fitting where the line was chaffed through by the frame, and what they described to me was a junction fitting that screwed into the cut line with a retaining nut to secure it. They said it works well with Parker hoses. It was about $30 for the fitting and about $200 for the complete line. They could not install it on the MH so the line would have to be removed anyways. Is this what you are describing? Is there a name for this fitting I can give them?


No, I have a portable Hydraulic Swagging tool I purchased from HWH 25 years ago. The Metal ends are installed exactly like HWH installs them. HWH no longer sells that tool. There is nothing wrong with cutting out the bad spot and swagging a new fitting on the old hose and making a new hose for the length from the Jack to the bad area. Your other hoses are the same age as the bad one. You going to replace those also? If you follow the thread about NOT using the good part of the old hose. If it was a front Jack, I would replace the complete hose from the jack to the Joystick. The Swagging tool allows me to make HWH hoses to whatever length I need. Doug

This is the tool
http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr751000.pdf
That is a nice tool, it looks like you can use it without removing the whole hose, is that true?

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Gjac wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
HWH pumps run at 2900 to 3200 PSI. You do NOT have to replace the complete line. IF the Shop has a tool(I do), you can install the metal flare ends on the end of the bad hose in front of the damaged area(cutting out the hose from the jack to the damaged spot) and then just make a short hose to go from the original to that Jack. Saves time and money. Doug
I called a Hydraulic shop yesterday and asked about adding a splice fitting where the line was chaffed through by the frame, and what they described to me was a junction fitting that screwed into the cut line with a retaining nut to secure it. They said it works well with Parker hoses. It was about $30 for the fitting and about $200 for the complete line. They could not install it on the MH so the line would have to be removed anyways. Is this what you are describing? Is there a name for this fitting I can give them?


No, I have a portable Hydraulic Swagging tool I purchased from HWH 25 years ago. The Metal ends are installed exactly like HWH installs them. HWH no longer sells that tool. There is nothing wrong with cutting out the bad spot and swagging a new fitting on the old hose and making a new hose for the length from the Jack to the bad area. Your other hoses are the same age as the bad one. You going to replace those also? If you follow the thread about NOT using the good part of the old hose. If it was a front Jack, I would replace the complete hose from the jack to the Joystick. The Swagging tool allows me to make HWH hoses to whatever length I need. Doug

This is the tool
http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr751000.pdf

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
looks like it is this one. PAP2464
Seems like it is sure long, 324 inches. Must be your right rear jack!
Yes, it should RAP

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
enblethen wrote:
Did you find the number on the white label? That will help. The person answering the phone can normally place the order with the part number.
I found a barely readable label wrapped around the hose by the jack. It looks like Part# AP2464 and Hose assy .25 X something. I hope the something wasn't the length. Does the part # look familiar? On edit there must be a R in front of the AP I just found it in the list you posted.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Did you find the number on the white label? That will help. The person answering the phone can normally place the order with the part number.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Winter driving sounds like my better half!

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
enblethen wrote:
That is way too much. the built line was under $50 in Montana.
A 156 inch line from HWH was $67.
I would not repair a line even at your ig's age and mine are older.
See what HWH wants.
Thanks Bud, just called HWH but they put me on a call back list.

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
mike brez wrote:
Hey Gary a buddie of mine worked HERE for years before moving to NC. They are in Bridgeport. Not sure if they can help any.
I take it you are home? How was the trip back?
The trip back was harrowing at first there was 5 ins of snow on the ground and MH when I got there. I practiced driving in the parking lot just to see how the MH would handle and stop in the snow, it actually did well. My wife was nervous the whole way back. The major highways were clear and the snow on the trees was beautiful, saw 5 bald eagles, several coyotes and foxes and herds of deer sometimes 30 or 40 at a time out in the fields. The temps were extremely cold so we stayed in motels each night. Had to block the front grill with cardboard to get the engine to come up to temperature. The old 454 started each morning even in 4 degree weather. The only other problem was a vibration in the seat after 60 mph. I was jacking the rear tires off the ground to check for out of roundness when the rear hose let loose. Other than that we made it back OK. After driving 2000 miles through cold and a few snow showers I would no longer be worried about winter travel but my wife would.

Kenz71
Explorer
Explorer
I seem to remember seeing plow truck drivers in NAPA auto parts getting replacement hydraulic lines. I bet they or most any other large auto parts shop could help.

mike_brez
Explorer
Explorer
Hey Gary a buddie of mine worked HERE for years before moving to NC. They are in Bridgeport. Not sure if they can help any.
I take it you are home? How was the trip back?
1998 36 foot Country Coach Magna #5499 Single slide
Gillig chassis with a series 40
02 Ford F250 7.3 with a few mods
2015 Wrangler JKU

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
That is way too much. the built line was under $50 in Montana.
A 156 inch line from HWH was $67.
I would not repair a line even at your ig's age and mine are older.
See what HWH wants.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker