leveling a class a motorhome

[appd221]

I have a class A Motorhome and want to level it so I can start the refrigerator the problem I have is the motorhome front wheels come off the ground to make it level. Is this safe for the jacks? Can they hold the weight? It would only be for a day for the refrigerator to get cold.

[RayChez]

Bumpyroad wrote:

Lobstah wrote:

RayChez wrote:

hipower wrote:
Per Norcold's site 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back on the refer is pretty far from level. That says a lot of time is spent accomplishing dead level that isn't needed by the refer.

Then it becomes a case of how anal we as owners feel we need to be to make us happy.

But wait a minute here! The refrigerator is not the only reason why a coach should be level. If a coach is not level there are stress factors with doors that will not close proper. Your whole super structure has stress points that if not straightened out could cause gussets to break on the house framing or stress on the chassis platform. So having a level coach is very important, not only for the refrigerator, but to other components.

So what happens when you go over a speed bump?...or a pot hole? Those factors put as much or more stress on your coach.

I agree that if I lowered ONE jack and fully extended just that corner of my coach, it would twist and stress joints. That's why my leveling system prevents lowering just one jack, unless you overide the system. Everything happens in pairs. Raise/lower on complete side, or raise/lower front or rear, but always two jacks operating.

Jim

yep, HWH biaxial leveling.
bumpy

This is true with HWH leveling systems. I had them on my gasoline coach and I can honestly say they are the worst jacks you can get.
What I have on this DP are Quadra by Big Foot and you can operate them one at a time or all at the same time. Best is one at a time. As soon as it touches the ground stop and go to the other until you have all four touching the ground. Then look at the bubble on your levels and like they say just center the bubble. Very simple and they are superior to the HWH. HWH are a joke with their spring return. I used to hate mine on my gasoline coach.

[bennefim]

Most owners manuals say not to lift wheels off the ground. I have had two jacks replaced due to over-extending. When it over-extends, a sheer pin is damaged. If a site is unlevel enough to cause this, I use the manual procedure and get it close as possible.

[Bumpyroad]

Lobstah wrote:

RayChez wrote:

hipower wrote:
Per Norcold's site 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back on the refer is pretty far from level. That says a lot of time is spent accomplishing dead level that isn't needed by the refer.

Then it becomes a case of how anal we as owners feel we need to be to make us happy.

But wait a minute here! The refrigerator is not the only reason why a coach should be level. If a coach is not level there are stress factors with doors that will not close proper. Your whole super structure has stress points that if not straightened out could cause gussets to break on the house framing or stress on the chassis platform. So having a level coach is very important, not only for the refrigerator, but to other components.

So what happens when you go over a speed bump?...or a pot hole? Those factors put as much or more stress on your coach.

I agree that if I lowered ONE jack and fully extended just that corner of my coach, it would twist and stress joints. That's why my leveling system prevents lowering just one jack, unless you overide the system. Everything happens in pairs. Raise/lower on complete side, or raise/lower front or rear, but always two jacks operating.

Jim

yep, HWH biaxial leveling.
bumpy

[Lobstah]

RayChez wrote:

hipower wrote:
Per Norcold's site 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back on the refer is pretty far from level. That says a lot of time is spent accomplishing dead level that isn't needed by the refer.

Then it becomes a case of how anal we as owners feel we need to be to make us happy.

But wait a minute here! The refrigerator is not the only reason why a coach should be level. If a coach is not level there are stress factors with doors that will not close proper. Your whole super structure has stress points that if not straightened out could cause gussets to break on the house framing or stress on the chassis platform. So having a level coach is very important, not only for the refrigerator, but to other components.

So what happens when you go over a speed bump?...or a pot hole? Those factors put as much or more stress on your coach.

I agree that if I lowered ONE jack and fully extended just that corner of my coach, it would twist and stress joints. That's why my leveling system prevents lowering just one jack, unless you overide the system. Everything happens in pairs. Raise/lower on complete side, or raise/lower front or rear, but always two jacks operating.

Jim

[RayChez]

hipower wrote:
Per Norcold's site 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back on the refer is pretty far from level. That says a lot of time is spent accomplishing dead level that isn't needed by the refer.

Then it becomes a case of how anal we as owners feel we need to be to make us happy.

But wait a minute here! The refrigerator is not the only reason why a coach should be level. If a coach is not level there are stress factors with doors that will not close proper. Your whole super structure has stress points that if not straightened out could cause gussets to break on the house framing or stress on the chassis platform. So having a level coach is very important, not only for the refrigerator, but to other components.

[hipower]

Per Norcold's site 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back on the refer is pretty far from level. That says a lot of time is spent accomplishing dead level that isn't needed by the refer.

Then it becomes a case of how anal we as owners feel we need to be to make us happy.

[ArchHoagland]

From Norcold/Thetford, look at leveling requirements.....

FAQ for refrigerators

[Lobstah]

FIRE UP wrote:

taigarazz wrote:
Would placing the plastic blocks under the jacks be a good idea to prevent damage to concrete or asphalt pads?

taigarazz,
Well, yes, placing blocks, plastic spacers, whatever you want to use, under the jacks will prevent "sinking" of your rig ONLY if the blocks/spacers/plastic pieces are of size enough to displace the amount of weight per jack. In other words, if you put one (plastic spacer) of the same size as the jack foot under it, then you're not accomplishing anything. The block/spacer needs to be larger to displace the weight. The larger they are, the less chance you'll have of driving them into the pavement or, mud, or dirt or whatever's soft that you're parked on.

The leveling debate always cracks me up. Why guys have such a hard time placing a few blocks or ramps of some type under the tires and drive up on them when they "KNOW" the situation is un-level and warrants it, I'll never know. I know and realize that some coaches have limited space for storage of a supply of blocks, lumber etc. but, if you travel, to many unknown campgrounds/RV parks and, not knowing the parking conditions, it simply pays you to bring along some lumber to use in the event the ONLY spots available are some what un-level. And don't give me any of that cr.. about "Well I'll just move to another spot" stuff, yeah sure you will, in the middle of camping season and, every retiree on the planet is out and traveling.

But, folks can do as they please, it's their rig. I never hang any tires and wheels off the ground. When I'm done leveling, no matter how un-level the site is, the tires are on wood, and the jacks too, so that I have TEN points of contact on the ground and that rig is as stable as a rock. And, all the interior doors STAY where I leave them and don't close on their own 'cause I was too lazy to level it correctly. The refrigerator is DEAD LEVEL. I'm the one that has to pay for a new one if I damage it because I was lazy and didn't take the time to level it. So, to each their own.

I don't see where this discussion is about whether or not to level.
My fridge is "DEAD LEVEL" too. That I choose to use my jacks rather than a combo of jacks and planks has not effect on whether or not my fridge/rig is level. It's about HOW you level, not IF you level.

As I've stated before, I don't believe it matters if your wheels are off the ground. I really don't care if they are or not. My jacks are designed to support the full loaded weight of my coach, period. And I just can't imagine a site that is SO sloped/slanted that 23,000lbs resting on top of 4 supports that are 12" in diameter would slide, unless they were on ice.
Your suspension just doesn't care if it's loaded or not. It's designed to support the full weight of the coach, as are the jacks.

If you want to spend an hour adjusting planks etc because you believe it somehow increase the longevity of your coach?...have a ball.

Just don't tell me I'm wrong because I don't do it YOUR way.

Jim

[FIRE_UP]

taigarazz wrote:
Would placing the plastic blocks under the jacks be a good idea to prevent damage to concrete or asphalt pads?

taigarazz,
Well, yes, placing blocks, plastic spacers, whatever you want to use, under the jacks will prevent "sinking" of your rig ONLY if the blocks/spacers/plastic pieces are of size enough to displace the amount of weight per jack. In other words, if you put one (plastic spacer) of the same size as the jack foot under it, then you're not accomplishing anything. The block/spacer needs to be larger to displace the weight. The larger they are, the less chance you'll have of driving them into the pavement or, mud, or dirt or whatever's soft that you're parked on.

The leveling debate always cracks me up. Why guys have such a hard time placing a few blocks or ramps of some type under the tires and drive up on them when they "KNOW" the situation is un-level and warrants it, I'll never know. I know and realize that some coaches have limited space for storage of a supply of blocks, lumber etc. but, if you travel, to many unknown campgrounds/RV parks and, not knowing the parking conditions, it simply pays you to bring along some lumber to use in the event the ONLY spots available are some what un-level. And don't give me any of that cr.. about "Well I'll just move to another spot" stuff, yeah sure you will, in the middle of camping season and, every retiree on the planet is out and traveling.

But, folks can do as they please, it's their rig. I never hang any tires and wheels off the ground. When I'm done leveling, no matter how un-level the site is, the tires are on wood, and the jacks too, so that I have TEN points of contact on the ground and that rig is as stable as a rock. And, all the interior doors STAY where I leave them and don't close on their own 'cause I was too lazy to level it correctly. The refrigerator is DEAD LEVEL. I'm the one that has to pay for a new one if I damage it because I was lazy and didn't take the time to level it. So, to each their own.

[OhhWell]

taigarazz wrote:
Would placing the plastic blocks under the jacks be a good idea to prevent damage to concrete or asphalt pads?

Well, the plastic blocks aren't much bigger (if any) than the pads under the levelers. I use 3' lengths of 2x6" wood planks to distribute the load some.

[taigarazz]

Would placing the plastic blocks under the jacks be a good idea to prevent damage to concrete or asphalt pads?

[OhhWell]

ArchHoagland wrote:
Turn on the refrigerator. You don't have to be all that level.

If your rig sits un-level enough that the front wheels need to come off the ground, don't just turn the fridge on.

You can raise the front up higher than you need, put some wood under the front tires and come back down to level if you need but I would have absolutely no problems leaving the front wheels off the ground as long as there is not much of a slope side to side as well. If there was, your front could start sliding to the side.

[Mr_Mark1]

Lobstah wrote:

Mr.Mark wrote:


The small problem was that the sites are slanted with the front of the site being the higher end. I put down the hydraulic jacks and during the night, we started sliding backwards even though none of the tires were off of the ground. Early in the morning, I started the engine to air up the bags and leveled on the air bags (no more sliding).

MM.

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying here.
You leveled the rig, your wheels were still on the ground, yet you "slid" backwards?
Only way I could see this happening is if your brake wasn't set and your transmission was in neutral?

Never heard of a rig sliding downhill. Were there skid marks from dragging the tires?

Jim

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jim,

We were moving 'ever-so-slightly' backwards. Every so often we felt a vibration, probably moving just a fraction of an inch. The hydraulic jacks lifted the rear wheels just enough where the tires were touching but not firmly planted. It did run across my mind that this motion could have bent the hydraulic jacks but they look good and sturdy.

Our jacks will not deploy unless I have the air control pulled that engages the parking brake.

This has jogged another memory at the same park in the older section. We were parked on a very level spot watching TV and the coach started jiggling. It took a few minutes to realize what was happening.... we were sinking. A closer inspection revealed that we were crushing the already broken concrete pad with the rear jacks. I started up the engine and leveled on the airbags.

MM.

[Bumpyroad]

J-Rooster wrote:
My wife does not like the front wheels off the ground so I bought a 6" x 6" x 8' fir beam and, cut it up into four 2' foot pieces. No more front wheels off the ground with the beams under the jacks.

seems to me that the beams would have to be under the wheels, not under the jacks?
bumpy