My 2004 MH needs better brakes

[Big_Redneck]

I bought a 2004 MH and drove it home today. A few rattles here and there as usual I guess. Now the brakes? They need looked at. It was just inspected but the brakes are soft and it takes a good bit of force to use. I don't like that. Any of you ever had this problem? I am going to upgrade them so where the best place to get them? I haven't checked anywhere yet. That the first thing I am going to do. It a Winnebago Sightseer 28 foot, 2004 with 35,000 miles. I backed it in the garage so I can wax it. The inside is very clean. It has jacks levelers which is nice to pull the wheels to work on it.

[rgatijnet1]

I think you can pretty much forget about the recall. That was so many years ago, 2009-2010, and WH has since dissolved. I'm sure that you cannot find any place that will take care of any recall that might not have been done. Since it was a free recall that replaced all four calipers, I would bet that yours was already taken care of.
In addition to flushing out the entire brake system, another routine maintenance item for the brakes is to make sure that the caliper slides are lubricated with disc brake lube. This will keep everything working as designed.

[Big_Redneck]

My vin is 10D45E281307 2004 Model WPD27C Chassis is 5B4KP57G543388213 Hope this help to see if this RV has a recall?

[wa8yxm]

Yes there was a brake system recall or two on the workhorse. The brakes worked all right. They worked TOO GOOD (did not release properly)

Now the brake fluid in the WH may be different than what I am familiar with but if it gets too hot it can boil this leads to soft pedal and eventually no brakes (As it gets hotter) so drive a bit and use an I/R gun to measure the heat on each wheel. if one is way way way hotter post and let the experts here decide if you have an issue. Alas workhorse.. i do not think, is around to honor the recall any more bout the brake manufacturer MIGHT and is still about.

Mine (2005) feel "Soft" compared to my car (i need more pedal pressure) but they are working 100%. New pads (front) were installed last year due to having the calipers off for OTHER reasons so I figured for an additional 100 bucks. Might as well pop on new pads.

[ArchHoagland]

You win need the VIN number and hopefully someone on here that knows how to check for that information on line will use that number to find out.

I have a Workhorse dealer in my town so he takes care of all my needs.

Is there a Workhorse dealer near you?

[All_I_could_aff]

And many times, replacing the rubber flex hoses at each wheel with stainless steel braided lines can reduce the feeling of spongy brake pedal

[Big_Redneck]

My Winnebago Sightseer has a Workhorse Shassis Length 27'11". So now how do I check for recalls on this MH? The Model is 2004 WPD27C What else do you need?

[ArchHoagland]

Is it a Ford or Workhorse chassis?

I have a 2004 Workhorse chassis and there is a recall on the Bosch brakes that came on it.


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[ScottG]

Another vote for having the brake fluid flushed. It's amazing the difference this can make.

[Big_Redneck]

Thank you fellows for the information and I will have the brake fluid flush and check for rust. Then I will road test to see the results. Sounds like a plan to start with. I never though of that.

[DrewE]

Apparently this is on a workhorse chassis, if the spec sheets I could find are correct. There are some brake system recalls on some of these chassis from that era, so I think it would be wise to verify that they have been done (and get it done if it has not been done yet).

More generally, if the motorhome had not been driven for awhile (weeks or months) before you drove it, it may possibly just be some surface corrosion on the brake discs that had built up, which makes for much less effective braking for a bit until it wears off. This is normal with all vehicles.

If you're expecting hair-trigger sensitivity on a gas motorhome braking system, that's unlikely to happen and probably not really ideal. So long as you can stop quickly in an emergency situation you should be all right. Somewhat heavier brake feel and more sedate response to all control inputs than a car is what I at least would expect.

Don't rely on the leveler jacks or any jacks to safely support the vehicle weight when working underneath it. Proper jack stands (or maybe safe cribbing) should be used for that. For just removing a wheel it may be possible to manage things so that you aren't putting yourself in danger underneath the vehicle, but most chassis maintenance that would involve pulling a wheel requires safe support.

[time2roll]

Need inspection and fluid change first. Sorry I have no idea what is a good shop in your area.

[Chum_lee]

Before you decide to upgrade or "needs better brakes" as you say, try to get them working properly as they came from the factory.

My bet: You'll find they work just fine as long as you stay within the GVWR/GCWR weight limits.

Chum lee

[rgatijnet1]

Have the complete brake system FLUSHED with DOT 4 fluid. This is not the same as having the brakes bled. Flushing will probably take 3 quarts of brake fluid until all of the old fluid is removed. Then after this is done see if the improvement is acceptable.