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Need some help with roof sealing questions.

rotwiler
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 99 Itasca Sunrise/Winni Brave, 33 foot class A. On a very hot day my roof seam that meets the drip rail on the side totally came out, didn't crack or anything but when I try to put it back in the rail on side, I can't figure out how to hold it in place to caulk or use eternabond, I put it in, a few feet, move over a few feet and it pops out. I would need 15 people holding it till the caulk dries lol. Any ideas on how to hold it in place? It is a fiberglass roof. The entire 33 foot section came out except the front a few inches is still holding.
Itasca Sunrise 32.2 454 FI
6 REPLIES 6

dieharder
Explorer
Explorer
I have the exact same issue with mine, however the area that is popping out is only about 2 feet. Caulking doesn't hold it... eternabond doesn't hold it... epoxy doesn't hold it. It comes out after a few days just sitting there in the laneway.

Will go to Home Depot to try to find some kind of wider metal edge to insert in there after I get the rubber back in and then eternabond over that. Is that something that sounds like it would work?
1999 Itasca Sunrise

Kirk
Explorer
Explorer
Whatever you choose to use, keep in mind that it will be subject to the stress & vibration of travel over the roads when finished. If this were mine I would take the advice of Doug and replace what you have now with a much wider metal edge to prevent this from pulling out again once you are on the road.
Good travelin! ........Kirk
Professional Volunteer
Fulltimer for 11 years,
URL: www.adventure.1tree.net

fcooper
Explorer
Explorer
rotwiler wrote:
Have you ever heard of anyone using pencils or maybe a strip of metal to wedge between the top to the drip rail to hold it in place. I used a small strip of eternabond to hold the rear edge, but as i moved farther, it was so hot out the eternabond was soft and pulled loose. Thinking I may go to home depot and get some galvanized metal strips and try to wedge the edge in.


Thinking outside the box, but if you think the wedge method will work, look at vinyl pool "liner lock". It is designed to lock the vinyl in place and might be the correct size. I'm assuming that you will be able to get adhesive behind the parts before using the wedge to keep it in place. Most any pool supply store will have "liner lock", but it is much cheaper from ebay. To see a picture of liner lock, put "liner lock pool" into the search box of ebay.

Fred
Fred & Vicki
St. Augustine, Florida

rotwiler
Explorer
Explorer
Have you ever heard of anyone using pencils or maybe a strip of metal to wedge between the top to the drip rail to hold it in place. I used a small strip of eternabond to hold the rear edge, but as i moved farther, it was so hot out the eternabond was soft and pulled loose. Thinking I may go to home depot and get some galvanized metal strips and try to wedge the edge in.
Itasca Sunrise 32.2 454 FI

MaverickBBD
Explorer
Explorer
3 M makes a fast cure sealant /caulk 5200. When they say permanent they mean it. I have only seen it in white. You may get by with 4200 but don't know if they make a fast cure.
Tom, Cheryl & Blossom(coonhound mix)
'05 Winnebago Journey 36G w/Cat. C-7 350 hp Freightliner XC
AFE air filter, aero turbine muffler, 4 FSD Konis, ultra track bell crank and Safe-T-Plus
FMCA 397030
WIT 129107

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
That is a common problem on older Winnebago products. One solution is to install a wider side molding above the existing rail IF you have any backer studs that hi up. What we used to do, was, install a rubber roof over the fiberglas and then run the rubber down under the sidewall to roof edge. Doug