New rig, could use some troubleshooting advice.

[Justin210485]

Hello all, My name is Justin and I am new to the forum! My wife and I picked up a 1978 Ford Midas is super good condition for the upcoming summer.even though we got a killer deal, there are some repairs I need to take care of.

Break lights do not work.
Fuel tank selector does nothing
Crack in grey water tank

I have read that maybe its the break light switch under the dash near the pedal, so I will look there.

Rear main tank is selected but using the toggle switch doesnt change tanks.

Pretty good size crack in grey tank. Will replace later but would like to know if it can be sealed for some use beforehand.

Thanks all. Here are some pics of the rig!



new upload photos

[Bordercollie]

With an old rig that has been messed with by one or more previous owners, it might save you time and aggravation to find an RV service that has an expert on RV electrical systems. There may also be an automotive electrical service that has somebody with good RV electrical experience. Make sure that the converter/charger and house batteries are working properly to power your interior lights, fresh water pump, electronic appliance controls ,etc. also make sure that your 120volt system is working properly to power the roof air conditioner , and microwave. Tires must not have deep sidewall cracks and should be no more than 5 years old by DOT date codes embossed on tires.
Brake system including front flex brake lines should be serviced as needed and old brake fluid flushed and replaced. Engine cooling system including water pump , radiator and all belts and hoses should be serviced as needed. Breakdowns on the road are expensive and some ( tire and brake failures) can be dangerous. Be prepared to spend some serious money to make your rig reliable and having "most of the comforts of home" Good luck with your new hobby.

[Justin210485]

Update: so I guess I just wasnt patient enough with the fuel tank switch. Today while driving I flipped it for the he'll of it , was also near empty. After about 5m the fuel gauge slowly rose to 1/3 tank. So that's great.

[Justin210485]

Its dark now so on to another issue into the night. Our fridge doesnt seem to be working
After some sleuthing I found that a main wire is going from the little breaker box this has over to the inverter. Then the wire exits the inverter to a 120 plug behind the fridge and on to another 120plug that also has no power. Here is the kicker. The exit 120 wire out of the invter has been cut. Also the fridge lever to change from gas and electric has also been removed. Before I go reattaching the wires that were cut,any clue why they would have done this?

[Justin210485]

So after following some steps i used a test light on both spades. 1 spade lit the light constant. The other only lit when brake pedal was pushed. So based off of that that would mean its working?

[Justin210485]

how to upload image on website

If you look at this pic, you will see the brake controller on the right with the 2 spade bare ends. The black connector and then the wires. It looks like one of the original wires was cut ans spliced to a purple wire. Cant seem to see where it goes.

[j-d]

Your Fuel Tank Selector feature should be wired something like this:
If your system has a Return Line from the Carburetor back to the Tank(s), you have a Six Port Tank Select Valve.

From Tank 1 with Pressure and Return = 2 ports

From Tank 2 with Pressure and Return = 2 ports

To and From Engine with Pressure and Return = 2 ports

That's six fuel line connections at the Selector.

Pix and Discussion Here

This is a Replacement Six Port Select Valve

[toedtoes]

DrewE wrote:
I must say on the whole this looks remarkably clean and solid for something that's about forty years old.

Perhaps it has the Midas touch? :R

[toedtoes]

Justin210485 wrote:

toedtoes wrote:

Justin210485 wrote:
Wow! These responses are great,thanks for all the help so far. So here is an update.
Bulbs for brake lights are the same for tail and bulbs are fine. Rear blinkers work fine as well. Checked the only fuse panel I could find and there was no fuse I could find. So will test ground at bulb?

I checked and yes there are 2 tanks. Front tank and rear tank. The rear tank is main and front is alt. When idle or off flipping the switch does nothing that I can see change or hear.

Not aure what grey tank is made of but will post a pic.

I have two tanks with a toggle switch. When I switch it, the only thing that changes is the fuel level gauge if they both aren't full. I don't hear or see anything else.

Well I put $20 and both tanks ran one of them to wear said empty switched the toggle and it still showed empty. So I would think the guage would change?

It could be that the fuel sending unit is bad. If you can't get a replacement, try this guy - he repaired mine.

If you know one gauge and tank works, then fill that one up full. Then run on the other one (which shouldn't be full) until it runs out or you reach 100 miles. If it runs out before 100 miles, then you are most likely running on the second tank but the sending unit is bad.

If you reach 100 miles, then go to a station and try filling up the first tank again. If it is still full, then you were running off the second tank and the sending unit is bad. If you can fill it, then it is not switching to the second tank.

That's the way I worked out my tanks - it took some trial and error.

Oh, and if you have anyone work on your fuel system make sure they tag your tanks to the original connections. I had mine done and the toggle got reversed so when I filled up my first tank and thought I was running on it, I was actually running on the second...

[Justin210485]

DrewE wrote:
That's a large crack in the tank. I would suggest seeing about replacing it, especially as it appears to be fairly accessible without taking the entire motorhome apart. That isn't always the case. A plastic fabricator may be able to patch it up, though, if you decide to go that route. If it's brittle with age, it probably would crack again. I honestly don't know how prone (if at all) ABS is to getting brittle or crumbly.

The light socket looks to be in very poor condition. Even if you get it working, I suspect it would not be reliable. The upper of the two base contacts is loose from the plastic mount, for one thing, and the lower right corner looks almost as though it has been burnt (though that may just be accumulated cruft). At any rate, I think replacing these lights would be much less trouble in the long term than trying to figure out why they aren't working now and getting them usable.

I must say on the whole this looks remarkably clean and solid for something that's about forty years old.

So after testing the socket with my light. The taillight as before lit up but when touching the brake light contact it did not light as expected, but when the wife pumped the pedal it would come on for a split secxoned each time. I'm thinking the brake controller? If I decide to just replace the lights is that an easy job?

[DrewE]

That's a large crack in the tank. I would suggest seeing about replacing it, especially as it appears to be fairly accessible without taking the entire motorhome apart. That isn't always the case. A plastic fabricator may be able to patch it up, though, if you decide to go that route. If it's brittle with age, it probably would crack again. I honestly don't know how prone (if at all) ABS is to getting brittle or crumbly.

The light socket looks to be in very poor condition. Even if you get it working, I suspect it would not be reliable. The upper of the two base contacts is loose from the plastic mount, for one thing, and the lower right corner looks almost as though it has been burnt (though that may just be accumulated cruft). At any rate, I think replacing these lights would be much less trouble in the long term than trying to figure out why they aren't working now and getting them usable.

I must say on the whole this looks remarkably clean and solid for something that's about forty years old.

[Justin210485]

toedtoes wrote:

Justin210485 wrote:
Wow! These responses are great,thanks for all the help so far. So here is an update.
Bulbs for brake lights are the same for tail and bulbs are fine. Rear blinkers work fine as well. Checked the only fuse panel I could find and there was no fuse I could find. So will test ground at bulb?

I checked and yes there are 2 tanks. Front tank and rear tank. The rear tank is main and front is alt. When idle or off flipping the switch does nothing that I can see change or hear.

Not aure what grey tank is made of but will post a pic.

I have two tanks with a toggle switch. When I switch it, the only thing that changes is the fuel level gauge if they both aren't full. I don't hear or see anything else.

Well I put $20 and both tanks ran one of them to wear said empty switched the toggle and it still showed empty. So I would think the guage would change?

[Justin210485]

free photo hosting for ebay

This is the tank, rear tail/brake light socket and fuse panel.

[toedtoes]

Justin210485 wrote:
Wow! These responses are great,thanks for all the help so far. So here is an update.
Bulbs for brake lights are the same for tail and bulbs are fine. Rear blinkers work fine as well. Checked the only fuse panel I could find and there was no fuse I could find. So will test ground at bulb?

I checked and yes there are 2 tanks. Front tank and rear tank. The rear tank is main and front is alt. When idle or off flipping the switch does nothing that I can see change or hear.

Not aure what grey tank is made of but will post a pic.

I have two tanks with a toggle switch. When I switch it, the only thing that changes is the fuel level gauge if they both aren't full. I don't hear or see anything else.

[Justin210485]

Wow! These responses are great,thanks for all the help so far. So here is an update.
Bulbs for brake lights are the same for tail and bulbs are fine. Rear blinkers work fine as well. Checked the only fuse panel I could find and there was no fuse I could find. So will test ground at bulb?

I checked and yes there are 2 tanks. Front tank and rear tank. The rear tank is main and front is alt. When idle or off flipping the switch does nothing that I can see change or hear.

Not aure what grey tank is made of but will post a pic.

[Teacher_s_Pet]

The grey tank is probably ABS plastic and possibly could be "welded" by a shop that does plastic fabrication.