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Onboard water system pumps water out the shore input

gdbudlong
Explorer
Explorer
When I am not connected to a shore water line and I turn on the onboard pump to use the fresh water tank, water streams out of the shoreline input. It does not occur the other way around. In other words, when I am connected to shoreline water it is not leaking into the freshwater tank. Please help. Do I have a bad valve at the shoreline input where it says "Tank Fill" and "Tank Bypass"? Thank you.
19 REPLIES 19

Empty_Nest__Soo
Explorer
Explorer
You could also use a quick-release water hose fitting. Put the part with the check valve on the fresh intake. You could also put the part with the nipple on the end of your white hose and not have to thread the hose on again.

Wayne
Wayne & Michelle

1997 Safari Sahara 3540

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
FormerBoater wrote:
Dutch_12078 wrote:
FormerBoater wrote:
Or, if you are really in a hurry you can go to a hardware or big box store, buy a ball valve and the adapters and nipples needed to accept the male fresh water hose(female hose pipe interface) and a male hose fitting to plug into the coach city water supply.

Ball valve on when connected to city water, off when you want to use the on board fresh water.

Just did a 10 day trip and did not have to use the spare!

Bought the parts, the glue and made 2.

Works like a charm and I think I spent about $12.

Seems like a lot of work and extra expense when a ready made hose valve from Walmart works just fine for less:

Metal Hose Shut Off

Even cheaper if you buy one of the plastic valves.


I think you will find that most Walmart stores will not have this item in stock....none within 50 miles of my location.

But you are correct, I am still recovering from the all the extra work to assemble my devices and I am hopeful that I can pay off the $12 in the near future...working closely with the lender as always.

Off hand, I don't recall being in any Walmart in recent years that didn't have that valve or a similar one in the yard/garden department. If they don't though, I'd bet your local Home Depot, Lowe's, Menards, etc. does. Even the common 'Y' hose connectors will work. Many campground stores even carry them. The point is that there are commonly available fixes for the OP's problem that don't require any assembly and cost less.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

FormerBoater
Explorer
Explorer
Dutch_12078 wrote:
FormerBoater wrote:
Or, if you are really in a hurry you can go to a hardware or big box store, buy a ball valve and the adapters and nipples needed to accept the male fresh water hose(female hose pipe interface) and a male hose fitting to plug into the coach city water supply.

Ball valve on when connected to city water, off when you want to use the on board fresh water.

Just did a 10 day trip and did not have to use the spare!

Bought the parts, the glue and made 2.

Works like a charm and I think I spent about $12.

Seems like a lot of work and extra expense when a ready made hose valve from Walmart works just fine for less:

Metal Hose Shut Off

Even cheaper if you buy one of the plastic valves.


I think you will find that most Walmart stores will not have this item in stock....none within 50 miles of my location.

But you are correct, I am still recovering from the all the extra work to assemble my devices and I am hopeful that I can pay off the $12 in the near future...working closely with the lender as always.
Dave
1998 American Eagle 40EVS

gdbudlong
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you all. You are the greatest!! I'm fairly mechanically inclined (not quite MIT material, but respectable.) I will employ your remedies.

Again, thanks.

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
FormerBoater wrote:
Or, if you are really in a hurry you can go to a hardware or big box store, buy a ball valve and the adapters and nipples needed to accept the male fresh water hose(female hose pipe interface) and a male hose fitting to plug into the coach city water supply.

Ball valve on when connected to city water, off when you want to use the on board fresh water.

Just did a 10 day trip and did not have to use the spare!

Bought the parts, the glue and made 2.

Works like a charm and I think I spent about $12.

Seems like a lot of work and extra expense when a ready made hose valve from Walmart works just fine for less:

Metal Hose Shut Off

Even cheaper if you buy one of the plastic valves.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

FormerBoater
Explorer
Explorer
Or, if you are really in a hurry you can go to a hardware or big box store, buy a ball valve and the adapters and nipples needed to accept the male fresh water hose(female hose pipe interface) and a male hose fitting to plug into the coach city water supply.

Ball valve on when connected to city water, off when you want to use the on board fresh water.

Just did a 10 day trip and did not have to use the spare!

Bought the parts, the glue and made 2.

Works like a charm and I think I spent about $12.
Dave
1998 American Eagle 40EVS

bluwtr49
Explorer II
Explorer II
Effy wrote:
Why would you turn on the pump when connected to water? The pressure from the water connection means you don't need the pump.


Commonly done. I always leave my pump on to pick up the slack if park water pressure fails or drops.
Dick

2002 43' DP Beaver Marquis Emerald Cat C-12 505 HP, 1600 Tq
2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland ---toad

mockturtle
Explorer II
Explorer II
I agree it's the check valve. If you can't fix it right away, just get a screw-in plug.
2015 Tiger Bengal TX 4X4
Chevy 3500HD, 6L V8

jyrostng
Explorer
Explorer
sometimes all you need to do is use a pencil eraser, turn off the pump, turn on a hydrant to relieve the pressure, pop the check valve ball built into the water connecter with the eraser and reseat it. It has a spring behind it and sometimes when you disconnect the water line, it won't reseat it's self correctly.
2000 F53 Southwind 32v

Ivylog
Explorer III
Explorer III
In my MH the check valve for my power hose reel is hard to get at so after several times of replacing, I bought one of these. It never leaks if I remember to put it in the hose end.

Ebay for $4.75 delivered.
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years.
Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45’...

JK3045
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with Dutch ...no need to cancel a trip or anything. Mine is so easy to replace ,I carry a spare all the time and have had to use it in the past.

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
The quick fix until you can replace the inlet, is just pick up either a screw in hose plug or an inline hose shut off valve at Walmart or a hardware store.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

ArchHoagland
Explorer
Explorer
More info please....
2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD
Workhorse W22 8.1 Gas Allison 1000, 7.1 mpg

2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
US Gear Brakes

DSDP_Don
Explorer
Explorer
"gdbudlong".......The check valve should be just behind you're fresh/city water fill. It's there to do exactly what you're having an issue with. It closes the fresh water opening so that you're pump can build pressure and supply water to the rest of the coach.

Often, the valve gets debris in it and prevents it from closing completely. As stated above, sometimes it can be cleaned out or even whacked to get it to close. If not, you'll need a new one. They're inexpensive, just a pain to replace on some coaches.
Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018 - All Electric
2019 Ford Raptor Crew Cab