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P30 chassis attachments to frame and spark plug wire issues

jyrostng
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 1989 30' P30 Southwind, going over rough roads causes a lot of banging. Are all the connections from the frame to the body supposed to be welded? Both front body support steel tubings where they ride on the frame are not welded.

The leaf springs in the rear look collapsed. Will running more air in the rear bags help that. I normally run 45 front and back, the rears max is 100psi, at 45 it looks like the bag halves are touching and that might be a cause of some of the rear banging over bumps.

I bought the best plug wires possible, I have them in the stock metal protectors with the insulator sleeve inside.(454) The plug wire ends keep burning up. The last set were borg warner. They didn't melt, they crystalized after a 800 mile trip in the summer heat. I have the stainless tube exhaust for headers. Is there a fix for this?
2000 F53 Southwind 32v
10 REPLIES 10

jyrostng
Explorer
Explorer

topflite51
Explorer
Explorer
My first MH would melt the wires in 300 miles, I put on a set of THESE. No more problems.
:CDavid
Just rolling along enjoying life
w/F53 Southwind towing a 87 Samurai or 01 Grand Vitara looking to fish
Simply Despicable 😛
Any errors are a result of CRS.:s

jyrostng
Explorer
Explorer
this is GM's service bulletin drawing to fix the right side plug wire issue

this mod forces air to the side of the motor off the radiator


2000 F53 Southwind 32v

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
I made air dams out of FG sheets to force the grill air to flow through the AC condenser and radiator. A friend of mine made an air deflector with a steel plate that was 4-6 ins lower in the front of the grill that would scoop the air and force it into the radiator. He said it had a huge effect on lowering the eng temps. I think anything that you can do to make the air goe through and not under or around your radiater will help.

jyrostng
Explorer
Explorer
Gjac wrote:
Sounds like leaking exhaust manifold causing wires to get hot. A large leaks are easy to detect by a clicking sound. Smaller leaks are harder to hear. I would get a piece of tubing and put it into you ear and go around the manifolds and listen for a hissing or clicking sound. After fixing mine with headers I bought Taylor wires that were 10.4 mm thick with fiberglass soxs on the ends from Summit Racing they were $170 but I have had the on since 2005 and are still good.


$2200 factory stainless steel headers (back in 91) and super exhaust gaskets coated with antisieze. I've heard of people making air deflectors in the bottom area of the fenders to direct air to the exhaust area to help cool that location.
no clicking from leaks or lifters. The chassis frame has no cracks, where the tube frame of the body sets on the frame, some aren't welded and over bumps makes noise, should these be welded to the chassis frame?
2000 F53 Southwind 32v

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
I would have someone inspect the frame of your coach and repair any broken welds, if needed. There should be no metal to metal contact with the frame. I have had a few braces break loose, on different coaches, so I don't think that a broken weld is too unusual. They are just things that I notice when I do my preventive maintenance.

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Sounds like leaking exhaust manifold causing wires to get hot. A large leaks are easy to detect by a clicking sound. Smaller leaks are harder to hear. I would get a piece of tubing and put it into you ear and go around the manifolds and listen for a hissing or clicking sound. After fixing mine with headers I bought Taylor wires that were 10.4 mm thick with fiberglass soxs on the ends from Summit Racing they were $170 but I have had the on since 2005 and are still good.

jyrostng
Explorer
Explorer
sc3283 wrote:
heat wrap on the steel jackets and on wire if need be and a different brand of plug wire....you say you bought the best....that may be the case in the Borg Warner line....but plug wires will last more than 800 miles

you dont have leaking/warped exhaust gaskets directing exhaust right onto the failed wires do you?

Use the heat wrap on the header tubes...Jegs and Summit and various other retailers sell the heat wrap


no leaks, victor blue gaskets cured those problems, the first plug wires I bought lasted less than 300 miles, the ends turned to goo. I bought the most expensive wires the place had with the borg warners, around 70 dollars. the wires seem ok, inside the steel jacket is ok, the chared part is the exposed part between the jacket and the wire.

the wires with the correct ends that fit the steel jacket covers limits the choices in wires. I'll try the wrap, thanks.
2000 F53 Southwind 32v

sc3283
Explorer
Explorer
heat wrap on the steel jackets and on wire if need be and a different brand of plug wire....you say you bought the best....that may be the case in the Borg Warner line....but plug wires will last more than 800 miles

you dont have leaking/warped exhaust gaskets directing exhaust right onto the failed wires do you?

Use the heat wrap on the header tubes...Jegs and Summit and various other retailers sell the heat wrap
04 D-Max Crew Dually

96 Monaco Dynasty 36'