Question for thos using Ready Brake

[Empty_Nest__Soo]

I’m setting things up to tow our new car. It will be the first time I’ve towed 4-down. I’ve purchased the Ready Brute Elite tow bars, the one with the Ready Brake surge brake system built in. I’ve made arrangements for the dealer where we bought the car to install the base plate and the cabling for the Ready Brake, as well as the cable for the break-away brake. Now that I’ve received the items I ordered, I have a question:

The Ready Brake came with an "In-Dash Indicator Light," which is supposed to light up when the Ready Brake applies the brakes on the towed car. Installation of this Indicator Light involves drilling a hole thru the dash, tapping into a 12-volt source which is hot when the ignition is on, and running a supplied wire from the rear of the coach to under the dash to connect to the light. Given the season here (cold), I’m wondering whether it is worth the bother for me to crawl around under the dash and under the chassis running this wire, or paying the dealer to do it.

As near as I can tell, the light will be lit-up by the movement of the little arm that actuates the cable to apply the brakes on the car. If I were to do something foolish like adjust the brake-actuating cable too tight, or forget to hook it up when getting ready to tow, I don’t see where this light will alert me to something gone wrong. It looks like it will only light up when the mechanism is trying to apply the brakes in the towed car, not the actual application (or lack thereof).

I’m not persuaded that the bother or expense of installing this light adds much value. I am inclined to not bother with installing it.

Am I missing something?

Thanks,

Wayne

[Big_Katuna]

I didnt want to modify the seven pin plug on the motorhome either.

I bought the Flexo Coil six pin kit and mounted it next to the 7 pin. Used a 7 pin connector to pick up the 4 wires for the mag lights and used the other two for the dash light for the toad brake lights.

[Bobbo]

Before using the relay on the car's brake light, I considered doing it that way. I didn't, only because I had to plug in that connection every time I towed, and unplug it after. I preferred the install once and forget it approach.

(Actually, when I installed the relay, I went into the trunk of the car and spliced into the wire that feeds that trailer connector. One of the brake light/turn signal wires and ground. Since the car's turn signal will never be on while towing, it works perfectly.)

As far as modifying the 7 pin, I didn't want to make permanent changes to the MH. Everything I have done can be removed and leave the car and MH as originally wired.

[bigbaddad]

I wanted to know when the toad brake was actually triggered. Being lazy and simple I used the tow hitch on my toad. I plugged a regular tow wire into it and put the other end with a regular trailer light on the dash of the toad. It's a rube solution but totally cheap, easy, reliable and effective. It's great when adjusting the cable too.

[RichNewcome]

To power my Ready Brake indicator light I removed the +12V feed to the RV trailer socket and wired an LED dash light to that pin. The negative of the indicator light is grounded in the dash area. On the toad side I spliced a wire into the brake light circuit and connected in to the #4 pin on the toad socket. When the toad brake light sees power, the #4 pin feeds +12V through the umbilical cord to the RV dash light. It was a little bit of work initially but makes setup easier afterwards.

[willald]

..I use a ReadyBrake Elite tow bar with the integrated braking system as well. Have used it on two different toads, it has worked great on both of them.

Yes, the way NSA has you install it, wiring the dashboard light to work of the ReadyBrake actuator....Well, is not very useful. You really, really need it to tell you when the toad brakes are engaging, not when the readybrake actuator moves.

Sooo, I too, wired the dash light to the toad's brake light. Is very, very handy, to know precisely when you toad brakes engage and when they disengage. I would not want to tow a vehicle without such. You really need an indicator like this, regardless what type of brake system you are using.

NSA used to instruct you to wire up their dash light that way, to the toad brake lights. However, they changed that to the way it is now some time ago. As I understand it, it was changed because so many toads require you to pull fuses or disconnect the battery, which in many cases would make it difficult to wire the dash indicator to work off of toad brake lights.

[Bobbo]

I did it myself. It isn't hard.

I did make 1 change. Not to the actual installation on the RV, but to the source that it reads.

I don't plug it into the plug on the Ready Brute Elite tow bar. I bought a 12v relay and wired it so my car's brake light activates the relay. Then I ran a long cord from the relay, and THAT is what I plug into the monitor light. The monitor light does not come on when the Ready Brute Elite activates. It comes on when the car's brake pedal is pressed. A small, but to me, significant difference.

[TriumphGuy]

tropical36 wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:
Like Dale, I have the toad brake indicator LED wired to the toad brake switch for a more accurate reading. That's actually the way the older units were designed to work. I also installed a turnbuckle in the brake actuator cable on the tow bar for easy adjustment.

Did the same and used a mini relay at the third brake light, utilizing it's N.O. contacts for completing this circuit to ground. Ran a two conductor cord through the frame to the front and separate from my lighting. Strapped some of this same two conductor alongside my umbilical with a two pin connector on both ends and with all to match up with the connector included by READYBRUTE. This way, I can readily switch back and forth from the READYBRAKE, to the the toad itself, which is the only way to make it, a fail safe system. NSA changed to this latter design on the hitch itself, to cover for all the possible different setups.
As for as needing the light in the first place, I like it and know without a doubt that if the lights on, then the toad's brake pedal is being depressed for whatever reason. In fact, I wouldn't leave home without it.
With just using the OEM supplied, the actuation cable doesn't even have to be there for the light to work and falsely indicating that the brakes are being applied.
Also, I like knowing when the toad is catching up to the coach and the way it actually operates. In fact I've observed this more than once and even though, I didn't even touch the brakes, while coming off of some steep grades. The only time it pretty much stayed on all the way down, was in Appalachia and at the time, was hoping that it was just enough for activating the indicator light and not actually holding the brakes on. Evidently so, with no smell or extreme heat coming from the toad's wheels, once I got to the bottom.
The turnbuckle made for easy adjusting of the cable, but haven't touched it, once satisfied.
I made up a little quick disconnect pulley wheel for attaching the pull cable to the brake pedal and didn't really like their catch all Mickey Mouse version for one size, fits all
I used a piece of the included steel cable for making a loop under the brake pedal as well an use this for quickly attaching the optional READYSTOP breakaway cable. It also double as a place for hooking a bungy cord and use this as well, so there's no excuse for the pedal not immediately returning when the brakes are deactivated.
All this, is not necessary for it's operation, just like making things a little better, if I can and usually mod most things in some way or the other.

I wish this forum system were a bit more modern. If so you'd be getting a "like" or "thumbs up" from me on that post.

Now I have some mods in mind for when I get mine installed...

[hanko]

Dutch_12078 wrote:
Like Dale, I have the toad brake indicator LED wired to the toad brake switch for a more accurate reading. That's actually the way the older units were designed to work. I also installed a turnbuckle in the brake actuator cable on the tow bar for easy adjustment.

great idea on the turn buckle. ILL do that in the spring

[tropical36]

Empty Nest, Soon wrote:

Billinwoodland wrote:
There was a light installed on my motorhome when I bought it. . .

OP here.

I find there is also a light on my dash. It is small and down low and I can't say that I noticed it before. The wiring isn't exactly right for what I need, but the wiring under the dash can be easily changed if the one wire runs to the rear 6-pin socket. I'll sort that out after the holiday weekend.

I like the idea of something activated by the towed brake pedal, not the lever on the Ready Brake. I'll put that on my "To Do" list. For now, it is probably easier to wire it up as Ready Brake intended. We're leaving for warmer climate in a few weeks.

I appreciate everyone's input!

Wayne

Just so you know, I'm most sure that NSA makes an optional brake pedal system, if you'd like going with them.

[Empty_Nest__Soo]

Billinwoodland wrote:
There was a light installed on my motorhome when I bought it. . .

OP here.

I find there is also a light on my dash. It is small and down low and I can't say that I noticed it before. The wiring isn't exactly right for what I need, but the wiring under the dash can be easily changed if the one wire runs to the rear 6-pin socket. I'll sort that out after the holiday weekend.

I like the idea of something activated by the towed brake pedal, not the lever on the Ready Brake. I'll put that on my "To Do" list. For now, it is probably easier to wire it up as Ready Brake intended. We're leaving for warmer climate in a few weeks.

I appreciate everyone's input!

Wayne

[ctpres]

Started out with LED installed per mfg. eventually figured out it did little to tell me if brakes were working on toad. Eventually I installed a flashing led with brake lights as power source behind mirror on toad. Rearview Cam told me all I wanted to know.

[tropical36]

Dutch_12078 wrote:
Like Dale, I have the toad brake indicator LED wired to the toad brake switch for a more accurate reading. That's actually the way the older units were designed to work. I also installed a turnbuckle in the brake actuator cable on the tow bar for easy adjustment.

Did the same and used a mini relay at the third brake light, utilizing it's N.O. contacts for completing this circuit to ground. Ran a two conductor cord through the frame to the front and separate from my lighting. Strapped some of this same two conductor alongside my umbilical with a two pin connector on both ends and with all to match up with the connector included by READYBRUTE. This way, I can readily switch back and forth from the READYBRAKE, to the the toad itself, which is the only way to make it, a fail safe system. NSA changed to this latter design on the hitch itself, to cover for all the possible different setups.
As for as needing the light in the first place, I like it and know without a doubt that if the lights on, then the toad's brake pedal is being depressed for whatever reason. In fact, I wouldn't leave home without it.
With just using the OEM supplied, the actuation cable doesn't even have to be there for the light to work and falsely indicating that the brakes are being applied.
Also, I like knowing when the toad is catching up to the coach and the way it actually operates. In fact I've observed this more than once and even though, I didn't even touch the brakes, while coming off of some steep grades. The only time it pretty much stayed on all the way down, was in Appalachia and at the time, was hoping that it was just enough for activating the indicator light and not actually holding the brakes on. Evidently so, with no smell or extreme heat coming from the toad's wheels, once I got to the bottom.
The turnbuckle made for easy adjusting of the cable, but haven't touched it, once satisfied.
I made up a little quick disconnect pulley wheel for attaching the pull cable to the brake pedal and didn't really like their catch all Mickey Mouse version for one size, fits all
I used a piece of the included steel cable for making a loop under the brake pedal as well an use this for quickly attaching the optional READYSTOP breakaway cable. It also double as a place for hooking a bungy cord and use this as well, so there's no excuse for the pedal not immediately returning when the brakes are deactivated.
All this, is not necessary for it's operation, just like making things a little better, if I can and usually mod most things in some way or the other.

[Big_Katuna]

I may have had my cable a little tight, but I learned that in the mountains, going downhill with the Pac brake on that after the trans would downshift, my toad brake light was still on.

I could tap the foot brake and make it go off. I ended up loosening the cable a little.

[Billinwoodland]

There was a light installed on my motorhome when I bought it. I tapped into it at the hitch side, and it didnt work with the readybrake system. I never fussed with it further, and have never missed not having the light. Your mileage may vary.