Rebuild ideas and thoughts

[cappi1976]

I am going to do a custom rebuild of my motorhome as I got it fairly cheap, probably paid way too much for it. I like to customize things and finding out what works and didn't work. Below are some ideas that I have been brainstorming. This is going to be my semi-permanent home for at least a year or so, maybe longer until I find my life calling. It will be me and occasionally my 4 kids.

This is a 1990 Fleetwood Southwind Class A Motorhome, 68k miles got for $2500

I am going to be starting with the powertrain system first.

POWERTRAIN

-The engine is going to be rebuilt, 7.4L with all original items. Does look good but when I popped the intake manifold found bent pushrods, so am going to go ahead and yank it and rebuild.
- I have a new carburetor, Edelbrock 1411.
- Looking for the intake manifold (maybe as this could be replaced easily later)
- Looking to upgrade at least camshaft
- The exhaust manifold will be just running back to the mufflers (which I have a new muffler from a Silverado that I acquired)
- The radiator will be replaced by a solid aluminum type
- I don't have emission and I think that system is shot anyway, so no more air pumps or emission-related stuff.
- My AC is shot I might get a new compressor or just modify it to something cheaper and easier, after all this will only be cooling the front passengers at the moment and not the back.
- I want to integrate a hot water system along with the radiator, maybe a separate system.
- I want to modify the radiator support install to make it easier for me to yank it back out if need be, it took almost the whole day for me to get that part removed to have access to the front of the engine.)
- I wanted the transmission, oil, power steering, and radiator to have its own little coolers but reading I found that wasn't much of a good idea. (does the transmission and power steering use the same fluid, can't I just move the lines in conjunction with them to eliminate the pump; just a thought) Still looking into this though any ideas would be appreciated.
- Although all of the above are separated Ideally would like to have a cluster of external filters for each of them.
- I had thoughts of adding an air compressor to the front where one of the air pumps were and add a clutch to turn it on an off like an AC compressor. Thoughts of an extra alternator or anything else?
- Fans, I will have the electric fan up front that came stock, which will be probably be upgraded as I acquired some from a newer car.
- I would like to relocate my master cylinder as I don't feel comfortable where it was located, makes it more difficult to look at the brake fluid.
- Power steering pump, I have an external reservoir and also am trying to find a place to relocate this also just for the convenience factor.
- The transmission will get somewhat of a rebuild, am looking to upgrading some components, torque convertor.
- I would like to add a 4-wheel drive system but that would be way too much work, maybe if I found something that would work. This is just for getting power to all four wheels, not really for offroading.
- The driveshaft, I didn't realize that it was so freaking long, has anyone ever heard of adding extra stuff to the driveshaft as far as supporting it a little bit better like extra carrier bearings? It just makes me sort of nervous with how long it is and how much of a pain it would be if it ever decided to go. Also how much torque and stress it must take pushing the motorhome. But I didn't design it either.
- Differentials haven't looked too much into this on the rear side, I do know that I need to replace my seals and fluid.
- I'm not sure what else I may be missing as far as any future-proofing this thing, ideally, if I could make it solid electric I would definitely do it but practicality wise not worth it in the long run.
- I want to clean up the electrical and make the engine as simple as I can to work on. I am going to redesign most of it and try to take some of this out of the equation.

BODY
- So this is going to be where I am going to need ideas and inputs mainly on what works and what would you do if you could.
- the steel framing is shot on the rear side and delamination has occurred. The roof is done. AC on top only one work.
- My thoughts of what I would like to have, I don't need that big bed in the back, I was thinking of putting in multiple beds and turning it into some type of master bedroom. Not much time will be in here, probably make a partial office in this area.
- So the rear is somewhat shot, I would like to have a workshop or storage area, the main access point would be the rear with a drop-down ramp of some type. I would like to store my toolbox and some other tools back there that I wouldn't really need access to on the road. I would like to move the rear wall back maybe 6 to 10 feet to accomplish this part. My biggest issue here is the weight on what I am able to store back here (ideally I am thinking around 1000 pounds). I know that there really isn't that much back there originally and not sure if that was on purpose or not. I would maybe relocate the water tanks and such further forward. The back bedroom would have to move forward or shrink some.
- The door that is on the side I would like to relocate this one to the passenger front as there is no door there at the moment and that would free up some space over there.
- Insulation, I am trying to research what is ideal and would like probably be out in areas where it may be a somewhat chili, I would like to bring my kids to see snow also at some point, so I am thinking spray foam would be ideal but that is a lot of money, I may look for people giving away insulation on craigslist and go from there.
- So the roof, I would like to do the split level AC system as I don't really care for too much being up there in the first place. Some type of Bedliner (line-x or other is my idea). Of course, I would have to think of some type of railing system or something that I may be able to modify at a later date. I will probably use less thick plywood (3/8") for the support or even something else like an attic jack spacing system, something for weight. I know I'm not supposed to live up there but I would like to have some functionality up there. Maybe star gazing or something. There will more than likely be solar panels up there but haven't made up my mind yet on how many.
- So the Bedliner stuff I would like to run it through the whole motorhome on the side and such, but the effectiveness on that may not be worth it, although would be airtight and no water intrusions, maybe if I find a good deal and someone willing to help with that project. I do have to replace some of the sidings due to the previous owner blaming his kids for hitting the side of his house. ( I would like ideas on this.) I would like to add a little overhang maybe an inch to help deter some of the water dripping into the siding area.
- I have lots of undercoating that I may be spraying on the underside to help with the rust buildup.
- I do want to do a type of custom dash since I will be playing with the Bedliner stuff, maybe form it with cardboard or something then spray it wit the Bedliner, maybe.
- I am going to try to install a partition behind the driver's area to make the area into a cockpit type. Along with this, I will be adding sensors and lots of things to monitor the health of the engine and components. Upgrade the radio area and have an intercom system for the rear.
- While I am at it I do have to fix the battery box location since it was thin metal and rusted out, I would like thoughts on the relocation of the batteries.
- The wiring for the rear, I do not like that most of the wiring cannot be accessed, so for the inside, I do plan on putting sheathing around different systems to color code and keep this easily repairable and upgradable. I am going to build a crown molding type system that I will be able to access the wiring and such without ripping stuff out.
- There will be an access hole for the roof for the wiring and such so if I do plan on upgrading up there should be able to use that access point to get up there.
- The ladder, I don't like that think, seems like it is an accident waiting to happen. Have you heard anyone making an access point inside the RV or along the front, maybe eliminating the permanent ladder and putting a portable ladder for this? Either way, I am thinking about removing that.
- So the roof, ventilation system, can't I install a small vent like a household bathroom and run it to the side? Same with the kitchen area. The lesser stuff on the roof for me would be better.
- So heat-wise, I have been looking into wood-burning stoves for motorhomes and brainstorming that area for alternate heat sources. Not much I can do to find alternate cooling sources unless someone has a theory on that one. But my thoughts, if I am in the middle of nowhere and something happens I can try and find things to burn. I've seen them in houses and they do get toasty, and I do like the heat, plus wood can be found almost anywhere for free.
- So ideas, links, pictures would be greatly appreciated. Cost I am not too concerned about because I already know that I am not going to get what I paid for the thing, but that's not the point, I want it to last, easily able to work on, and convenient. The powertrain is my main priority so I can get the thing into my shop. But I like to look for deals and ideas to brainstorm.

If I get some posts on my brainstorming conversion I will try and keep this post updated as time moves on.

[cappi1976]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EVTpxzXkJkVP8Gzq5 I posted a link to all pics and included the ones that I want to point out.


Restriction


Yuck


After pulling valves 😞


Need upgrade don't know why it is rubber but the chain was loose and needing replaced anyways.


This is the main reason I had to pull the engine had to go fishing for a bunch of stuff.


This thing made me bleed, so much slag from factory.

Please look at the album link and let me know, I will more than likely try and find new/used parts if possible. We will see. I will start to check the body of the motorhome next week, hopefully it won't be as bad/expensive...yeah right. But according to the guy I bought it from it ran very good last time he had it on the road.

[cappi1976]

@hoosiermark, Yes more of a tinker toy, but do want to get it on the road after it is done. I am sure that when you built cars you realized at some points of the build on figuring out what the manufacture was thinking at the time they put it together. And there was certain times that probably you had caught something that really wasn't going to make it that much longer. Even with the newer Motorhomes, the quality of the build is good somewhat, but not perfect by a long shot. Yes, I am sure that it probably would be a lot less labor and not as fun to just go get a new one, (I know that if someone is getting rid of one) there is always the hidden truth, no history and end the long run might cost you just as much if not more to get it right. With this project yeah it going to take a while, but I will know this puppy inside and out, and the short cuts I take, well that would be on me if it breaks.
@rgatijnet1 - You make a very valid point on the spray foam, thank you. I understand that the reason that spray foam is the ideal is to make it airtight to keep all the drafts out while also providing that insulation barrier. I will probably go with that plan and look into the closed-cell. Lol, this is why I started this is to get ideas and brainstorm. Thanks.

So my engine teardown is complete. The good news is the block is so far so good as far as I can see. I do have the 4 bolt main, yay, that's a plus. Now for the bad, so while I was trying to get the crank to turn something was binding really bad, and did not want to force anything at this point. Long story short is the piston on #3 is collapsed enough to make the connecting rod float freely. Going to clean this up tomorrow to make sure that the connecting rod is ok. The camshaft is done, bearings all around will need to be replaced regardless, but was expecting to gouges and such in the walls, but looks good so far, going to bring my big light up there tomorrow then get it ready to bathe for further inspection. The valves, oh my, don't even know how or why the thing still ran for. Exhaust valves on Cyl 5 & 6 were burnt, all but two exhaust valves were stuck, stuck enough where my little 2 pounder didn't budge it, so the 3 lb worked after a few taps. I didn't want to do it this way but I have to check the valve seats and guides after the bath.
So here was where I was going with the what were they thinking part.
- Exhaust manifolds, not sure if many saw how much space the air tubes take up, but it is a lot. (going to load up pics)
- Timing, well it was time for the best to be changed, did you know that thing had a plastic rubber-type setup. (see pics, please don't mind my work shoes)
- So looking at the crank will be looking further after the bath, but regardless I have to check the block for scaring, there are so many burs on that thing, look like someone being lazy and didn't clean it up before install. The are a few nicks on the crank but hopefully, all will check good.
- This goes the same with the block, there is so much that needs to be cleaned up and smoothed out from the factory, seems like a disaster ready to happen. I'm not looking to make this into a race car, but do want or need it to have some power, and as far as reliability that is why I want to do it, I trust myself more than paying someone to do it.
- I am going to try and figure out how to upload pics, if anyone see's anything that may be suspect please let me know. And yes on assembly the shop will be a lot cleaner than it is.

[rgatijnet1]

What makes you think you need a full 3" of spray foam insulation just because the wall is that thick? Have you ever held a scalding hot cup of coffee in a styrofoam cup that is only 1/16" thick? The facts are that by using the closed cell spray foam 1" will probably take care of your insulation needs in any temperatures that you may encounter. Use more if you want to but it is a waste of money.

[hoosiermark]

Sounds like you want to tinker more then camp. If that is so, go for it. You will spend months doing everything and never really get to enjoy the RV but if you enjoy a project then it will be great. I have dealt with sports cars for decades. It took a long time for me to realize it was cheaper and a whole lot less time and work to buy one that was in great shape rather then a project. Rvs in good shape always need tinkering so you can get your handyman fix either way. Personally I would buy a nice one and if I needed, get a part time job that would pay for it. It will take a lot less hours to work for others and pay for it then it will for you to buy cheap and work on it and buy parts for it. But bottom line is do what makes you happy. Enjoy.

[cappi1976]

@theoldwizard1 I still am in debates on which type of spray foam will be applied (open or closed) as this has both ups and downs. At the moment, just depending on which I can find a good deal. Appx (40x8x2)/wall so 640 board feet x 3 is roughly 1920 board feet, plus the back wall, just going to add it up to about 2500 ish which is equivalent to about $3k. So I would need to find a deal to make this one work.
Lol quality may be iffy but after I have seen some of the stuff that comes from the factory I know my quality and their quality are completely different. Instance taking out the engine and removing the front, I don't even know if there is a plan for all of them or they just go at it and support it with metal and self tap screws. I will make sure that it is secure and able to last years, but has to be lite enough to shed some pounds. But yeah quality is a priority, just depending on how much. It isn't like I am expecting it to survive if it rolled over or something like that, I am looking at (NOTE) school bus structures and maybe ripping the frame up on one of those 🙂 I haven't really sean none of them just falling apart. But yes my friends will be able to give me hand in locating parts and helping me, then I will probably go back and double-check.
Funny that you mentioned the Inconel bolts and jet engines. I know someone on that side of the military too, maybe I get in contact with him and see what there may be scraps of. JET ENGINE TURBO, (Mach 1), 🙂 Oh that would be funny, dangerous but funny.

So on the brighter side, it is very hot in TX. Got the upper part torn apart of the block and going to be finishing it up tomorrow, hopefully. Just going to get some loan a tools from the part store. After that will look into what I will need and want to start pricing that out.

Good New part two, I got a new set of airbags, Air Lift 88370, for the motorhome for $150.

It almost time for the Motorhome to come out of its shell while I get ready to remove the sides and roof, this part is going to be interesting. As of now, it is sitting under a great big 100-foot tarp that will be reused for a pool cover afterward maybe.

So here is a question that I haven't seen floating around here, has anyone yanked their windshield themselves, or is that a job for the pro. I did them before on semi's and broke a few because it didn't want to sit right, but of course, videos make it seem sooo easy. I would try and mod that but that is a job I may not want to take on. We will see as time goes on and I get to that point, I might get a hair up my butt and say screw it, smoke a couple of cigs and get that bad boy out.

But I'm going to be hopefully ordering my engine kit tomorrow/maybe finish get the trans down and checking the pan on that part. Also will be checking the torque convertor at the same time. But so far most have been on schedule, just try to get motivate to do most of it.

[theoldwizard1]

cappi1976 wrote:

- Spray foam is my ideal on the way I am thinking about going, I also plan on doing a very thin layer before the spray foam just for the airtight water proofing idea.

Closed cell spray foam IS a good water/moisture barrier if properly applied.

The problem with spray foam, is that it expands uncontrollably. Not enough in some areas and WAY TOO MUCH in most. This requires that you cut it back before installing the interior finish wall board.

cappi1976 wrote:

- The house side I am fairly confident in that rebuild part as I got some people that owe me favors and usually, I can find items for really cheap or free.

So questionable quality ??!!!!

cappi1976 wrote:

But I do need to look into what bolt to use for the manifold.

Inconel - This is a special grade of stainless steel designed specifically to withstand high temperatures and corrosion. Used in the jet engines and space craft industry and by some custom header manufacturers.

Open your wallet VERY WIDE !

[cappi1976]

So to answer some of the questions first ??
- More details on the Motorhome, it is roughly about a 40-foot class A. Has/Had a 1990 7.4L, Carb, and TH400 (need to verify this one though)
- The TBI I thought about it, but then I thought that for the price and workability as far as keeping it somewhat ease to work on, I am going to be sticking with the carburetor. I want to try and keep as much computer stuff out of the engine, powertrain system.
- Spray foam is my ideal on the way I am thinking about going, I also plan on doing a very thin layer before the spray foam just for the airtight water proofing idea. I don’t mind the cold or heat too much, it’s the drafts that get me. As far as the electrical I will probably be leaving it on the outside in a bulkhead type system. I don’t want to rip into the walls if I have to go chasing electrical shorts or running something new.
- This is a project that I do plan on taking out as soon as I get the power train system redone. I will post pictures of the reasons why I had to pull the engine at a certain point. But I am a mechanic by trade and usually people tell me that what I am thinking isn’t going to work, only makes me put it into play just to see if they are right. Usually I can figure something out.
- The house side I am pushing as a second priority, I am doing the engine work myself as this will save lots of money. I like to touch everything and try and give it a once over, sometimes can mean trouble but often I just want to make sure it is up to my standard. The house side I am fairly confident in that rebuild part as I got some people that owe me favors and usually, I can find items for really cheap or free.
- The weight side is a worried factor as I have thoughts of adding a pusher axle but then again, I would have to find this on a really good deal.
- I know I will not recover what I put into this, I enjoy doing projects like this, regardless if I had a new one compared to this one, I am not too confident with the quality of mass production. If I could find just a chassis, I would like to do one of them. I want to do the rebuild to my customization in trying to make this last forever. Hell, if all else fails I’ll just rip the home part off and turn it into a really big pickup truck. ??
- Punishment…lol…just like putting a cherry picker on loose gravel and dirt. NOTE: have rubber wheel replacement and maybe motorized boom. That became interesting, but it got done. I enjoy the blood sweat and tears. My timeline is roughly 6-8 months, with 2 months for powertrain system. I’m retired military and do have access to junkyard for military vehicle and parts.
- Camshaft I am going to upgrade this. The exhaust manifold is going to be gone and done, along with those stupid air pipes. But I do need to look into what bolt to use for the manifold.
So today I finally ripped the engine out, was a big project, probably broke some stuff but it came through the front, sort of easily. Just the conditions I was working in wasn’t really idea for the situation. I will be posting pics of the engine and reasons why I had to go this way first. The transmission will be next on my to do list, I will probably just replace seals and gaskets on that part as it isn’t a hard project to take out. One of the things that is boggling me is that I don’t remember removing the trans mount or any bolts, it looks like it is there but when I pulled the engine the transmission was not attached to anything. I will be looking into this later.

[theoldwizard1]

If you are doing a major engine overhaul, get a roller camshaft. It will save some fuel.

[RLS7201]

When Chevy add TBI around 1990 they actually decreased performance and increased exhaust manifold cracking problems. In an effort to meet EPA requirements, chevy backed off (forum won't let me say reta
rded) the timing and the fuel was still burning as it passed the exhaust valve. If you had a tuned ear, you could actually hear the engine struggling with the late timing.
If you want a nice running 454, go the 96 or later port injected engine and electronic transmission. 290 HP hot rod.

Richard

[Bird_Freak]

BarabooBob wrote:
I look at projects like this and I hope that thee person knows what they are getting into. Take your projected cost and triple it. I once tried to rebuild a boat and found out that a boat is a hole in the water that you just keep throwing money into.

My last Chris Craft resto taught me what BOAT stands for.
Break Out Another Thousand.
B O A T
She sure was pretty in the water. 17ft Mahogany with 283 Chev.

[BarabooBob]

I look at projects like this and I hope that thee person knows what they are getting into. Take your projected cost and triple it. I once tried to rebuild a boat and found out that a boat is a hole in the water that you just keep throwing money into.

[tropical36]

Sounds like it should have been a TT for a little more money and for a lot less, than the OP will have in the MH. Even with something to pull it with.
Unless of course, he's really planning on hitting the road, for day in and day out travel around the country.
Even at that, I'd have payed more for something that was ready to go or close.
Yeah, I know and the original price was a lot cheaper, but just wait and for a rude awakening that's about to slap one in the face.
Like said, you gotta love the punishment of the project itself, above all else.

[2bzy2c]

See

3 years and counting.....

I am pretty handy. I wouldn't touch it.

He has 3 years into it, and almost $10,000 and he has only scratched the surface. I respect him for sticking with it, but it simply does not make sense to rebuild these vintage RV's. Best to find a low mileage older rig and make do. There are many of them on the market.

[2oldman]

How much time are you allowing for this? Sounds like years of work.

Hard to imagine a wood-burning stove in a MH.

[Gjac]

I agree with what Ron said a TBI would be better. Also add headers and get rid of the stock exhaust manifolds they are probably leaking or cracked, you will increase your HP buy roughly 80 HP. Add some air dams from the grill to the radiator to force air through radiator instead of under neath it to keep it running cooler. Add a CAI to grill instead of stock intake which is sucking in hot air. Advance timing from 4 degrees to 9 degrees to pick up some more performance. I would not worry about the long drive shaft, you have more important things to do. I would not worry about the tranny or adding 4 wheel drive you have a lot of weight on those rear wheels for traction. The 4LE80 transmission is fairly robust, just change fluid and filter and look what is in the bottom on pan before you rebuild the transmission. With 64k miles it may just need a fluid change. As far as the body you are asking for a lot of work that won't add much value for you. Weight the MH first and compare your Traveling weight to you GVWR which is probably no more than 18,000 lbs. Remember if you are living in the MH with all your tools it will be a lot heavier than just a week end camper. How long is the MH?