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Roof top AC

Vt_Rv
Explorer
Explorer
My rooftop Coleman AC blows cool but not cold air. I'm told its a closed system that can't be recharged.

Headed out west this summer and will need AC.

RV repair is suggesting I replace my current unit with a Dometic Brisk Air 1500 BTU AC.

The unit sells for $857. Is this a good idea or are there other options?
2003 Damon Challenger 348
2011 Ford F350 Diesel
2005 Harley Davidson Electra Glide Ultra Classic
So many toys, so little time! Retirement? Tick Tock, Tick Tock
25 REPLIES 25

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Considering teh cost of service, IF it is leaking you are going to be paying and paying and paying,,, Even if you do it yoruself R-134 or whatever it uses is getting kind of pricy.. And if its not 134a.. VERY pricy and possibly a license needed to buy (Depends on the specific coolant).

Consider this.

But first.. CLEAN the dang thing.. Since I last posted in this thread (just after cleaning) I've yet to trip that breaker. Unit is working 100% air is cooler (Though it still can't compete with Georgia SUN.. But at least it is livable)
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Doc15
Explorer
Explorer
The age of the unit would be another deciding factor as pierce mentioned... The most important thing is to get cold air blowing in the coach... no matter what it takes..
William

mpierce
Explorer
Explorer
How old is it? If 10 years or more, I would go ahead and replace.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
william mcbride wrote:
Presto... It may be a leak that takes 2 years to leak down.. I just hate to throw hundreds of dollars at a project before exploring all options..


They only hold 16 oz of Freon. ANY leak, most common is a cracked line will just get worse. Almost ALL leaks happen within a few days. MOST are catastrophic and happen at once. Doug

Doc15
Explorer
Explorer
Pardon the double post.... I didn't think my first reply to you posted.
William

Doc15
Explorer
Explorer
Presto... It may be a leak that takes 2 years to leak down.. I just hate to throw hundreds of dollars at a project before exploring all options..
William

Doc15
Explorer
Explorer
Presto.... I would fix the leak.. If it can't be fixed it may be a leak that takes 24 months to leak down.. I'm just saying I wouldn't take off the unit and trash it for a new one just yet...
William

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
william mcbride wrote:
I would have a charging port brazed into the line and charge my unit after first seeing if the mentioned cleaning was done.. You would otherwise be throwing away a unit that just needs freon... People sing whatever song cost you the most when wanting to sell something.


1. How do you braze a charging port without losing the existing Freon????
2. HOW and WHY would you charge a unit if it has lost Freon---IF it has lost Freon, there is a leak somewhere and the new Freon will just leak out if you do not find and fix the leak. These are SEALED systems with no way to leak other than a cracked/hole in a line.
3. The COST to find and fix a leak and then solder on the charge ports and evacuate and recharge would cost close to 50% of a complete new unit. NOT cost effective on a unit more than 5 years old. Doug

fpresto
Explorer
Explorer
william mcbride wrote:
I would have a charging port brazed into the line and charge my unit after first seeing if the mentioned cleaning was done.. You would otherwise be throwing away a unit that just needs freon..


If you could find someone to braze in a charging port and charge the unit(most places refuse to touch a sealed unit that was not designed to be recharged) what have you gained? It is a sealed unit and if it is low on Freon it has a leak. The leak would still be there.
USN Retired
2016 Tiffin Allegro 32 SA

Doc15
Explorer
Explorer
I would have a charging port brazed into the line and charge my unit after first seeing if the mentioned cleaning was done.. You would otherwise be throwing away a unit that just needs freon... People sing whatever song cost you the most when wanting to sell something.
William

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Update on MY A/C... One of my rooftop units has been tripping its 20 amp branch breaker... I put a meter on the wire and confirmed,, IT IS THE A/C not the breaker.. So this AM I got the ladder down, went topside with ye old screwdriver and ye old air shooter, pulled the covers and blasted the unk to .. somewhere else... About 2/3 of the condenser was covered with fibrous stuff that builds up on those things.. It's all clear now.

Came back down and turned it back on and ... no click of darkness on that line all day, still working as I type 11 hours later.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

falconbrother
Explorer II
Explorer II
These things are very easy to replace. The hardest part is wrestling them around. Over the years I have replaced a few of them. The last time I bought a 13,500 from the scratch -n- dent section at PPL motorhomes. It's a Dometic and works like a champ. The frame on it has a good ding to it like the box was dropped. But, I saved a hunk of change so, who cares. Anyway, the physical size and weight of a 13,500 and a 15,000 is the same. I think they weigh about 80 pounds or so. Everyone I have done I did by myself but, the older I get the harder it gets. The last one was a challenge to get it up there without damaging anything. The wiring is super simple. The new seals are easy to set etc.. Just be sure to have a good surface to mount it too. That's all there is too it.

Mr_Mark1
Explorer
Explorer
Vt Rv wrote:
My rooftop Coleman AC blows cool but not cold air. I'm told its a closed system that can't be recharged.

Headed out west this summer and will need AC.

RV repair is suggesting I replace my current unit with a Dometic Brisk Air 1500 BTU AC.

The unit sells for $857. Is this a good idea or are there other options?


You didn't mention if this unit is on your Harley, trailer or class A.... no matter what, your RV's are over 10 yrs. old. I think I would spring for the new one at the best price that you can find. I wouldn't want to try and repair an old unit.

Safe travels,
MM.
Mr.Mark
2021.5 Pleasure Way Plateau FL Class-B on the Sprinter Chassis
2018 Mini Cooper Hardtop Coupe, 2 dr., 6-speed manual
(SOLD) 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach, 45 ft, 500 hp Volvo
(SOLD) 2008 Monaco Dynasty, 42 ft, 425 hp Cummins

calamus
Explorer
Explorer
Altern wrote:
crasster wrote:
You can add a port if you are comfortable using solder and a torch, but I prefer mapp gas and brazing it with a copper rod. Once you have a port, you can get a vacuum tool to create vac pressure in the line and recharge it yourself. (works for autos too).
IMHO there are so many things about this post that contains poor or mis-information one hardly knows where to start.


You dont solder ref. lines you can clean it that helps get up there with a garden hose and take the cover off and wash out the coil. IF you Need to add some R-22 You can have about any HVAC person do it. We did ours last year. You dont have to go to an RV dealer anyone can do it.
2015 3500HD Chevy Dually Duramax, 2008 Sundance 2014 22'SSX bennington pontoon