Running a 50amp line to plug into

[mike_brez]

I recently got rid of a hot tub on my deck that saw no use.
I have a 50 amp breaker for it in my panel. I checked the two hot legs at disconnect were hot tub was and have 240v,120v from each hot to ground and 0v from neutral to ground. Picked up some wire and a rv outdoor power outlet a 50 amp 14-50R.
Pluged in my progressive industries surge protector and it said all was good. Pluged into rv and blows breaker at panel.
I'm going to call my electrician buddy but looking for suggestions.
Here is a pic of the breaker that blows in the panel. It has a test button on it could that be the cause? To dark outside for any others.

[time2roll]

OK looks like the two feed the inverter. One for pass through and the other to power the battery charging.

Need to pull those two wires off to isolate the main panel. Also need to shut the two 20 amp inverter breakers off.

Then one last try at the 50 amp GFCI.

[mike_brez]

enblethen wrote:
Photo shows main breaker 50 amp with retainer.
The two black wires on main is a big question.
Is ther a ground buss behind the right column of circuit breakers?
Do you have an inverter?

I have a inverter

[mike_brez]

time2roll wrote:
What do those two black wires off the top feed? Are they hot with no breaker?
Seems odd.

I think those are the in-feed terminals if you were not using a main breaker.

I will have to look in my manual. This label is on them




Click For Full-Size Image


Click For Full-Size Image.

[enblethen]

Photo shows main breaker 50 amp with retainer.
The two black wires on main is a big question.
Is ther a ground buss behind the right column of circuit breakers?
Do you have an inverter?

[rhagfo]

CA Traveler wrote:
rhagfo,

Read the first post. Since the circuit is now for a RV and no longer used for a hot tub it's not a code violation.

I think you are missing my point, I understand that RV doesn't need GFI protection. My point is disabling the GFI part of that breaker that you now have a code violation with that breaker, not the circuit, replace the breaker with a standard 50 breaker and all is well.

[mike_brez]

CA Traveler wrote:
Try this: Turn off all RV CBs, power on to the RV. Then at the RV panel turn on the main CB and then each remaining CB one at a time. This may isolate the failing circuit.

Yes that is what I did all breakers off including main. Turn on main and that pops the gfi in my basement 50amp breaker with the gfi attached to it.

[time2roll]

What do those two black wires off the top feed? Are they hot with no breaker?
Seems odd.

I think those are the in-feed terminals if you were not using a main breaker.

[CA_Traveler]

Try this: Turn off all RV CBs, power on to the RV. Then at the RV panel turn on the main CB and then each remaining CB one at a time. This may isolate the failing circuit.

[mike_brez]

i allready picked up this breaker for when my electrican comes. My fridge is packed with beer so I definitely don't want it shutting down.



I reset the existing 50amp breaker with the gfi again today. I pluged in my progressive industries ems and reads ok like before. Shut off main and all breakers in coach and plug into coach. I'm reading 120v at main 50amp breaker in Moho. As soon as I turn that main breaker on it pops the 50amp gfi breaker in my basement. Here is a pic of my rv panel

[time2roll]

I agree to put in a standard breaker... but still I recommend fixing the ground fault issue.

My fridge is on the RV GFI branch circuit so it could be an issue any time.

[Rick_Jay]

Mike,

I've been reading this over the course of the last couple of days, so this might have been addressed, but I don't remember.

Personally, I WOULD NOT want GFCI protection on my 50A motorhome outlet, and here's why.

When we're home during vacation season, we might go several days, even several weeks, without stepping into the motorhome. We keep the refrigerator on during these times so we don't have to empty it completely and so it's basically ready to go without much prep IF we get a chance to sneak away for a day or two. GFCI's have a way of tripping, sometimes just 'cause they're getting old and finicky, sometimes 'cause a bit of moisture formed somewhere which doesn't really cause a hazard, but does trip the GFCI. If the power cuts off to the moho, the refer would shut off and we could have a mess on our hands if we didn't catch it in time. We (as of this Spring) have a residential refrigerator in our motorhome, but even with the previous electric/gas unit, you needed 12V for it to work, though it would last a bit longer until the batteries died.

Anyway, my point being, is I'd remove the GFCI breaker and replace with a standard 50A unit. Your electrician might even swap you even with one he has in his parts inventory, as the GFCI units are pretty pricey.

My $0.02, but something to think about.

Good Luck,

~Rick

[enblethen]

A dryer circuit is good IF it is a full four wire. Earlier dryers were only three wire and contained no neutral.

[CA_Traveler]

Mike,

Your pictures are great!

"I take it that the single 240v for the dryer and the split 120v lines for the rv it is all in the wiring on the inside the dryer or in the rv panel?"

This suggested a 240V 3 wire dryer circuit to me. Modern dryers are 120/240V 4 wire circuits and likely use both 120V and 240V.

[mike_brez]

CA Traveler wrote:

mike brez wrote:

With that being said just out of courisity if the dryer and rv have the same readings at the female end I take it that the single 240v for the dryer and the split 120v lines for the rv it is all in the wiring on the inside the dryer or in the rv panel?

A 120/240V 50A RV plug is not the same as the older 240V 3 wire dryer plug. The 50A RV circuit is the same as newer 120/240V 4 wire dryer but the dryer circuit may be less than 50A.

The 20A and 50A RV plugs are in fact common household plugs. The 30A plug is unique to RVs.

You definitely want the 120/240V 50A RV plug. You can also have a 50A GFCI on that circuit. If the GFCI trips then you'll need to resolve the rigs ground fault. 50A GFCIs are more common for pools, spas, etc.

I was referring to electric dr photos of both using 4 wire. We're does the magic happen if they are both the same? I have this female plug as shown in my other pics

[hypoxia]

I have a problem with the Electric Dr photos as they do not address the ground.

My coach and many others do require 240 VAC for appliances, the dryer in mine is 240 volts.

I use a cheater box frequently to get 30 amps on each side, L1 & L2.