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Safe to have rear suspension lifted for clearance?

blue_seeker_1
Explorer
Explorer
I just purchased an 05 Jayco Greyhawk 31 ft. my driveway from the road to enter the driveway is steep, I'm not sure my rv will make the grade up. How safe is it to raise the rear suspension 5-6inches?
15 REPLIES 15

BendOrLarry
Explorer
Explorer
SweetWaterSurprise wrote:
I've got airbags for my rear suspension. I can get an insane amount of lift from them.


I have Firestone air bags on my 28 foot class c. I get less than an inch of lift at max air pressure. I called Firestone and talked to a tech who said if your E450 rear suspension is at stock height, you won't get any real lift. The air bags are designed to return a sagging suspension back to stock height.

gkainz
Explorer
Explorer
I had rear springs re-arched and an additional leaf added to an '83 Ford E-350 Tioga we used to own, but they only raised it up so that it was level when loaded. Regained significant clearance at the rear and no downside that I noticed.
'07 Ram 2500 CTD 4x4 Quad Cab
'10 Keystone Laredo 245 5er

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
Just to reinforce what DrewE said. Leveling will be difficult, and it is important to have the refrigerator fairly level.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

Bordercollie
Explorer
Explorer
If you are carrying seldom used stuff in the rear cargo hold, and your rig scrapes, removing some weighty stuff might be just enough for clearance.

Butch50
Explorer
Explorer
I wouldn't raise it up that much if it was me but if you do make sure that you have the angle of the rear axle realigned.

If needed I would consider adding some ramps to help that you can remove. I know it would be a pain but better than raising the rear of the MH that much. IMO
Butch

I try to always leave doubt to my ignorance rather than prove it

2021 Winnebago View

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
CharlesinGA wrote:
If the springs have sagged or flattened from years of being loaded up (these are truck chassis and few trucks are fully loaded 100% of their life) consider taking the MH to a truck spring and suspension speciality shop and have them re-arch the springs and add a leaf to them. In the long run this is the best thing to do.


This is what I did with an old E350 under a 24-ft Class C. But...
1. Those springs were tired and sagged. Coach had an awful sway.
2. Raising one end above OEM ride height, means always having to "level" on a campsite, even if the site actually IS level.

All I did was add a "repair leaf" to each side. These are generic leaves bought by width, thickness, and length. We had to cut the length and drill each leaf for the center bolt. Did NOT re-arch them since I'd heart the tapered Ford leaves didn't tend to retain the new arch for long.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

CharlesinGA
Explorer
Explorer
If the springs have sagged or flattened from years of being loaded up (these are truck chassis and few trucks are fully loaded 100% of their life) consider taking the MH to a truck spring and suspension speciality shop and have them re-arch the springs and add a leaf to them. In the long run this is the best thing to do. If you have add on air bags (Winnebago installed 3T kits on the Views from the factory) then make sure they stay inflated to a minimum pressure (probably 40 psi or so) otherwise them will fold and wrinkle and leak. Will last much longer with air in them ALWAYS.

Charles
2007 Winnebago View 523H on a 2006 Dodge (Daimler-Chrysler aka Mercedes) Sprinter 3500 chassis (T1N). Bought Sept 2015 with 18K miles on it, Prog Ind HW30C, Prog Dymanics PD4645, Chill Grille, PML/Yourcovers.com deep alum trans pan, AutoMeter 8558 trans temp gauge, Roadmaster sway bar, Koni Red shocks (rear), Fantastic Ultra Breeze hood, added OEM parabolic mirrors and RH aspherical mirror.
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed, PacBrake Exh Brake, std cab, long bed, Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously (both gone) 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180 & 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.

klutchdust
Explorer II
Explorer II
Going in at an angle helps also, I need to do that at some service stations and store entrances.

crasster
Explorer II
Explorer II
RoyB wrote:
If the clearance needed is small something like these skid wheels may work for you. I would do a slow drive doing this...


Google image

These skid wheel rollers are made by ETRAILER...



Roy Ken


LOL, I have some of these on the back of my Toyota C. They work! ๐Ÿ™‚
4 whopping cylinders on Toyota RV's. Talk about great getting good MPG. Also I have a very light foot on the pedal. I followed some MPG advice on Livingpress.com and I now get 22 MPG! Not bad for a home on wheels.

SweetWaterSurpr
Explorer
Explorer
I've got airbags for my rear suspension. I can get an insane amount of lift from them.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

I had a steel wheel roller made up to fit the hitch receiver. It helps greatly.

You might consider adding air bags to the rear that may gain you 3 inches.

I went to oversize (taller) tires which gave me 2 extra inches.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

dicknellen
Explorer II
Explorer II
Your receiver hitch receiver is the lowest point and I think they also have a roller like above that will slip into your receiver. Dick

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
If the clearance needed is small something like these skid wheels may work for you. I would do a slow drive doing this...


Google image

These skid wheel rollers are made by ETRAILER...



Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
More important than the absolute steepness of the driveway, of course, is how sudden the transition is.

I agree with carringb that doing a slow, careful trial run before making any modifications is only sensible. I would tend to advise against a significant lift (and I think 5-6 inches is pretty significant), if only because it will make getting the RV level at most campsites very difficult. You'd have to put 5-6 inches of ramps or other lifting under the front to get level on a dead level campsite, and that's a lot of ramps or blocks or jack extension.

If you only need an inch or so, air helper springs might give sufficient clearance without any real suspension changes.