Sealing Ladder and Rail Mounting Points

[turbojimmy]

I've searched through the thousands of "roof seal" posts and have a pretty solid strategy for seams, vents, etc. My issue is with the ladder where it attaches to the roof as well the attachment points of a roof-rail on top of my Allegro. Just about every single screw hole leaks into the interior.

What's the best way to seal the screws and mounting pads for the rail? I see Eternabond sells a caulk. Any other recommendations?

[turbojimmy]

trpwire wrote:
Use screws with thicker threads # 10 (Stainless)

Wally C

Was thinking bigger screws or thicker threads, too. As long as the rot isn't too bad I can get away with that.

When the weather gets warm I'll climb up there. It's back in the teens today so I'm back in hibernation.

[trpwire]

Use screws with thicker threads # 10 (Stainless)

Wally C

Gjac wrote:
If you are going to remove and seal underneath make sure you put caulking into the screw holes first and let it set up. Then put caulking on the screw threads before tightening down. I just used the 5200 on a boat it is about $20 a tube and will bond, seal and fill holes at the same. It dries hard and will have to be cut to remove the bond. From reading your post it sounds like the screw holes are enlarged and that is where the water is leaking from. Once you remove it you may find rotted wood underneath that will have to be replaced first.

[wny_pat1]

turbojimmy wrote:
Thanks for all of the advice. I was seriously considering taking it off and sealing the holes,

that would be the best route to get rid of all the wind vibration that keeps you awake during extremely high winds, if you are troubled by that.

[deaop01]

I had a leak in my ladder on the roof. What I did was take the bolts out and found two of them were rotted out. I moved the mount out of way and drilled the holes out to good wood. Don't go deeper than the screws.

I then used wood dowels and epoxed them in the hole. After they set up ( next day ) I put the mounts back and screwed the old ones down. Drilled the dowels so new screws fit nice and screwed them in.

Used eitherbond tape to cover everything up and self leveling dicor to seal the seems. Three years no leaks.

Hope this helps.

Ron

[turbojimmy]

Gjac wrote:
If the wood is rotted the screws will not have anything to bite into to hold the ladder. A simple fix is to get a thin epoxy like water glass, Gitrot or thin your own with acetone and pour it onto the rotted wood and let it cure.

The ladder is actually good - it doesn't appear as if the rot has gotten to it, but it is leaking. There's a couple of mounting points on the rail that are shot, though. I was thinking of filling the holes with something and/or using an adhesive to reinstall it.

I'll look into Gitrot - sounds like it has potential.

[Gjac]

turbojimmy wrote:

Gjac wrote:
If you are going to remove and seal underneath make sure you put caulking into the screw holes first and let it set up. Then put caulking on the screw threads before tightening down. I just used the 5200 on a boat it is about $20 a tube and will bond, seal and fill holes at the same. It dries hard and will have to be cut to remove the bond. From reading your post it sounds like the screw holes are enlarged and that is where the water is leaking from. Once you remove it you may find rotted wood underneath that will have to be replaced first.

Yes, I'm sure there is rotted wood. This is a low-budget resto - just looking for a tail-gating-quality, weekend warrior type rig. My plan is to seal the roof and let it dry out as-is. I've walked every square inch of the roof and it's solid except for some small areas where the rail attaches and where the fridge vent leaked. Interior damage is limited to some water staining inside a couple of cabinets.

I'm going to look for the 5200 stuff at Lowe's.

If the wood is rotted the screws will not have anything to bite into to hold the ladder. A simple fix is to get a thin epoxy like water glass, Gitrot or thin your own with acetone and pour it onto the rotted wood and let it cure.

[turbojimmy]

Gjac wrote:
If you are going to remove and seal underneath make sure you put caulking into the screw holes first and let it set up. Then put caulking on the screw threads before tightening down. I just used the 5200 on a boat it is about $20 a tube and will bond, seal and fill holes at the same. It dries hard and will have to be cut to remove the bond. From reading your post it sounds like the screw holes are enlarged and that is where the water is leaking from. Once you remove it you may find rotted wood underneath that will have to be replaced first.

Yes, I'm sure there is rotted wood. This is a low-budget resto - just looking for a tail-gating-quality, weekend warrior type rig. My plan is to seal the roof and let it dry out as-is. I've walked every square inch of the roof and it's solid except for some small areas where the rail attaches and where the fridge vent leaked. Interior damage is limited to some water staining inside a couple of cabinets.

I'm going to look for the 5200 stuff at Lowe's.

[Gjac]

If you are going to remove and seal underneath make sure you put caulking into the screw holes first and let it set up. Then put caulking on the screw threads before tightening down. I just used the 5200 on a boat it is about $20 a tube and will bond, seal and fill holes at the same. It dries hard and will have to be cut to remove the bond. From reading your post it sounds like the screw holes are enlarged and that is where the water is leaking from. Once you remove it you may find rotted wood underneath that will have to be replaced first.

[turbojimmy]

Thanks for all of the advice. I was seriously considering taking it off and sealing the holes, but I think I want to keep it. It sounds like the best course of action is to remove it, seal under the pads, bolt it back down and seal the bolts.

[diveman52]

Mike M2 wrote:
There is a sealant caulk made by 3M called 5200. It is used to seal fittings under the waterline on boats and is permanent, unlike any other caulk or sealant. I have used it many times and it is the flat out best there is, but expect it to never come apart or leak again. It comes black or white, and also a less permanent version called 4200.

X-2
Best stuff on the market
There's blue = slow setting
Red = fast setting

Lowes and Home Depot care it.
Keep in mind it's meant to be permanent

[Mike_M2]

There is a sealant caulk made by 3M called 5200. It is used to seal fittings under the waterline on boats and is permanent, unlike any other caulk or sealant. I have used it many times and it is the flat out best there is, but expect it to never come apart or leak again. It comes black or white, and also a less permanent version called 4200.

[Gjac]

I used Geocell and other types of caulking on mine over the years and all have worked well.

[Cobra21]

I had the same issues with ours. You may not like my remedy, but this is what I did. We don't use the roof rail or rack, so I took it off and eternabonded
where all the screw holes were. That fixed it, and I'm pleased with what I did.
Brian

[olfarmer]

I have had good luck with Dicor self leveling sealant and also Lexel caulking. Both are pretty tough with good adhesion after they are cured. I would not use a silicone product, the adhesion is very poor and nothing else will stick to silicone.